Triton 2400w and Bosch 1400 ACE routers - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-11-2020, 10:20 AM
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Robert...for the Triton, try moving the router from its extreme position and check the pin that locks the shaft has retracted. Once that is done, try moving the switch interlock cover. It should be free at that point. The cover is there to make sure one cannot turn the router on when the pin is holding the shaft. If the pin has not retracted try prying it away from the shaft...it may be jammed in the out position from lack of use...

I assume you are ordering the Triflow...? That should be used sparingly after thoroughly cleaning the parts. "if you think you need to apply more, you've used too much"...use a Q-tip to apply.

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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-11-2020, 11:25 AM
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Robert, if all else fails, send me a Personal Message (click on Subscriptions in the welcome bar, go down the control panel on the Left hand side until you find messages - send a PM). We do not like to have personal info like tel numbers and emails published. I will respond with contact details. We could set up a teleconference on Friday, if you have reasonable Internet access, and try to hack through it together. But I am no Brian Thomas.
In the meantime, enquire if anybody you know has a contactless voltage tester. Unfortunately the cheapest model is out of stock at Builders, and the one in stock is more expensive than necessary - will pay to send in the Bosch instead.
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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-11-2020, 12:49 PM
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I've never tried it but would a magnetic compass placed on the cable indicate whether or not there was potential there? Probably not; current would probably have to be flowing for the corona to be present?
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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-11-2020, 09:53 PM
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Try this,,,,
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James
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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-14-2020, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
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Default Triton and Bosch router problems

I got the Triton working on the router table. I did as I was advised and cleaned the router and put some graphite powder on it. The mechanism slowly improved. I then mounted it on the Triton router table (not very impressive, as it not very accurate) and got it working. The reason why it worked, is because there is a strange harmony and synergy between the mechanism, the collet lock switch, the on/off switch and the plastic switch cover. You have to depress the collet lock switch when it is not on the table, but when it is on the table, it works automatically when you fasten the shank nut, as does the electrical switch cover. I found all this out by trial and error and if it is revealed in the gospel of the manual, you need a theologian to interpret it.

I made a sort of a manual out of all the advice you guys sent me and drew up a checklist which I ticked off as I went along. Rest assured, at every possible stage of change, I switched off the power at the wall socket and even pulled out the plug.

One thing I found out about routing, it is that you have to think three-dimensional. It's all very well looking at a drawing of what you want to do, but it is quite difficult visualizing it when you have the piece of wood in your hands. It is easy to get things upside down and left side right.

I am busy replicating a rotten window bottom rail with two odd-sized tenons and a lot of grooves and rebates on it, so I am using another piece of wood to do the trial runs. It's a tricky business, this routing. I once even used my work piece for a dummy run, but luckily it turned out all right, as the dimensions were correct. I have done the easy bit already and that is the rebate on the one side and taking some wood away on the other side, but the other side has got a lot of dimensions, so I reckon it will take me some time still.

As far as the Bosch router is concerned, I am going to take it to the agents when things are more quiet on the corona front.
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