router table configuration - Router Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-09-2020, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Default router table configuration

Hi all,
I picked up a 27"x16" cast iron top some time ago with the intention of mounting it on the end of my old cabinet saw. I knew a few modifications would be needed at the time of purchase since the hole patterns don't match up and my saw is 28" deep (1" spacer block would be needed to close the gap). My saw also has the shorter 30' round rails so I'd have to remove the existing cast iron wing on the right to stay inside the rail length.

Now that I'm ready to get started, all these modifications lead me to believe it would make more sense to just incorporate the top into an out feed table for the saw, which is on the build list regardless. How feasible would it be to get the tops flush so I have a larger working area for the router table? The frame would be on casters and I'd have a few layers of MDF, or maybe some MDF with a melamine board on top for some slickness.

Any thoughts on positioning? Just looking at the top, I'd definitely like some more room on the front side (or 'south' of the router plate) but more space all around would be welcome. I haven't settled on the exact size of my outfeed table yet but assume the router table can be configured in any direction.

Last edited by Pcurry; 08-09-2020 at 01:52 PM.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-09-2020, 01:54 PM
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Hello and welcome to the forums Patrick...
We're happy you found us...

the outfeed sounds most practical...

what TS do you have???
pictures of the backside would be nice...
you can upload pictures fron the device you are posting from...

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-09-2020, 02:12 PM
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I did something similar for my router table. The only difference is that it is not part of my outfeed table. I used 2 pieces of angle iron attached to frame of the bench. I drilled and tapped angle iron and used bolts with a lock nut to adjust the level of the table. The weight of the cast iron is more than enough to hold the table in place. If you look at the top left and right of the second picture you can see two of the bolts. Makes it very easy to adjust the level of the table.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-09-2020, 02:13 PM
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Definitely going to need to see a picture of the back side of the saw. Also, is this going to be a permanent install, or will you need to make it removable? What type and location of dust collection do you use on the saw? Will that get in the way of your working on the router table?

I see a bunch of 1-1/2 inch angle iron in your future...

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-09-2020, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. I should have attached these photos in the original post, plus a sketchup drawing if I had those skills.

The pic with the tape shows the space I have to work with on the wing, assuming that plate is removed. It just doesn't seem like the best location with the all the modifications involved for this particular situation.

The other photos give you a look at the back side of the saw. The protrusion on the right is for the original blade guard now sitting in my attic and I'm not sure about the one that's about in line with the blade. I'll have to remove both of those to get the out feed table up against the saw, but I won't be able to connect the two tops because of the rear locking mechanism on my fence. I do use sleds which of course means runners on the outfeed table need to be and stay properly aligned. My thoughts were to locate other points beneath the rear rail where I could lock the saw and outfeed table together. I'd at least allow some extra width at the beginning of the miter track on the outfeed table to allow minor misalignments, but long sleds and sled rides onto the table might not be an option.

Let me go ahead and put it out there that I really like the fence and wouldn't consider swapping it out for another solution. Longer rails would be nice and the etchings on my rails ca be difficult to read at my age (50) but the fence itself is rock solid, holds true, and I just love the design. I'm the second owner of the saw and bought it from the Jr. High shop teacher that procured full classroom of 3 phase PM equipment when the school opened. He told me they closed shop class down in the mid 70s and the equipment was just used by the maintenance crew (and theatre) until the school closed and he hauled it off to his garage. He was still trying to figure out a solution for all his 3 phase machines (w only 110v running to his garage) when I bought one of his two cabinet saws.

Long post...sorry. Anyway, I like the idea of having a router table on the out feed side of my saw and it would be nice to expand the surface area for routing if I can keep it all flush with the router table surface.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-09-2020, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Adams View Post
I did something similar for my router table. The only difference is that it is not part of my outfeed table. I used 2 pieces of angle iron attached to frame of the bench. I drilled and tapped angle iron and used bolts with a lock nut to adjust the level of the table. The weight of the cast iron is more than enough to hold the table in place. If you look at the top left and right of the second picture you can see two of the bolts. Makes it very easy to adjust the level of the table.
Hi Bob, I see what you did here and it looks like an excellent solution for a longer (and flush) runway. Since my table is only 16" deep, I would like to add some area on front side if possible. Angle iron may also be a solution for that as well.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-09-2020, 04:28 PM
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Hello and welcome to the forums Patrick...
We're happy you found us...
Did you see his join date, and number of posts?

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-09-2020, 04:32 PM
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You can go too long for a table because if your lumber has any warp in it it will bridge across the table and the longer the table the worse that gets. We try and discourage putting a router in a table saw wing since one eventually gets in the way of the other but it looks like you are limited in space. Another option if that's the case is using a Workmate for a base and just lay a panel on it with cleats that fit around the outside of the Workmate when it is opened all the way up. That way you can store the top against a wall and fold up the Workmate or use it for some other job. That might be a simpler solution.

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-09-2020, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pcurry View Post
I like the idea of having a router table on the out feed side of my saw and it would be nice to expand the surface area for routing if I can keep it all flush with the router table surface.
independent fence for the RT...
mount two of theses type brackets or similar to the saw base and build from there...
a gap betewwn the two tables won't hurt a thing...
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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Last edited by Stick486; 08-09-2020 at 04:44 PM.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-09-2020, 04:45 PM
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Did you see his join date, and number of posts?
yup...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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