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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-29-2009, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenichi View Post
I wonder if the actuator of this jack couldn't be removed and "retro-fitted" to my existing manual lift (JessEm Lift-Fx), warranty be darned. This would give you something like the motorized lift ala John Nixon @ Eagle Lake Woodworking.

Theoretically, the motor has a fairly low power draw and not too much push since the scissor jack does the heavy lifting (pardon the pun). Limit stops top and bottom would be the only obstacle. Cant really tell from the picture, but I'm guessing the motor depth is less than 6 inches,so clearance space shouldn't be too problematic.
Kenachi,

I have recently purchased the Incra / Jessem Mast-R-Lift (the Incra/Jessem Mast-R-Lift is virtually identical to the Jessem except the insert plates are locked in with rare earth magnets instead of tabs), with the idea of motorizing it ala John Nixon.

I had an email discussion with Mark Mueller, Field Operations Manager for Taylor Design Group (Incra). Putting on his company hat, he indicated that the manufacturer will not warantee lifts damaged from motorized lifting. After further qestions, he indicated that he believes the manufacturer's (Jessem) concern is that it uses two sets of aluminum threads with a lash adjustment (to hold the router elevated) where the steel screw passes through the router carriage. He guessed that Jessem may have had a few customers gall out the aluminum threads with aggressive up-down work without enough lubrication (the threads are typically run dry or with a coat of wax or dry silicone).

Based upon that, I will likely eventually motorize mine, albeit with the clutch set as low as usable and speed limited.

Jim

P.S. Post pictures as you progress... I'm always looking for ideas!
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-01-2009, 09:03 AM
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Better use a pretty hefty deadman switch on it

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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-02-2009, 11:30 AM
 
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@bobj3 -- I thought the scissor jack would be a little big to fit in my router compartment on my router station, plus, I really like my router lift, except for the lack of motorization.

@BigJimAK -- Luckily, my current lift is out of warranty and is also a bastardized version from Rockler that has a smaller plate size than the current flock of router lifts. I was actually thinking of putting a reduction gear on the motor shaft to mate with and drive the primary gear already on the lift. That way, I would use the lift design as much as possibly, only changing the actuator mechanism to a motor instead of me with a crank arm. That should also minimize the gall out on the threads (as long as you have good dead man switches, as Howard suggested). I dont need it to go fast, just move precise.

@dutchman46 -- How about a 6' 4", 285lb hockey player to slap me upside the head when it reaches the top/bottom? Oi!
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-02-2009, 11:36 AM
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HI Kenichi

The scissor jack is a bit of a over kill that's why I used a small nut driver
with all the power I need to lift the 15 lb. router..

============

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenichi View Post
@bobj3 -- I thought the scissor jack would be a little big to fit in my router compartment on my router station, plus, I really like my router lift, except for the lack of motorization.

@BigJimAK -- Luckily, my current lift is out of warranty and is also a bastardized version from Rockler that has a smaller plate size than the current flock of router lifts. I was actually thinking of putting a reduction gear on the motor shaft to mate with and drive the primary gear already on the lift. That way, I would use the lift design as much as possibly, only changing the actuator mechanism to a motor instead of me with a crank arm. That should also minimize the gall out on the threads (as long as you have good dead man switches, as Howard suggested). I dont need it to go fast, just move precise.

@dutchman46 -- How about a 6' 4", 285lb hockey player to slap me upside the head when it reaches the top/bottom? Oi!



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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-02-2009, 11:45 AM
 
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I've considered that, I just dont have one laying around to use. So, I thought if I have to buy something, I would buy a motor for that purpose.

It seems that no matter what I choose, I end up looking at a cost of around 60 bucks.

<thinking in progress.....>
Now that you mention the nut driver...

I do have a 14v Dewalt drill I dont use anymore. Since the battery is dying, and is too expensive to replace since I have an 18v drill, maybe I will look into that. It should be less torque and already has a clutch which eliminates the need for a deadman switch. I should be able to build a AC/DC converter using the battery charger. Hmm, I need to revisit John Nixon's motorized lift page again...

Thanks for the mental jump start....
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-02-2009, 11:56 AM
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Hi Kenichi

I'm a cheap old SOB ,,,,,I don't keep the nut driver in the lift all the time I use it for what it was made for then when I need it in lift it just snaps in place.. and then back out...takes less than 3 sec.to put it into place..1,2,3 and it's set to do one more job

=====

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenichi View Post
I've considered that, I just dont have one laying around to use. So, I thought if I have to buy something, I would buy a motor for that purpose.

It seems that no matter what I choose, I end up looking at a cost of around 60 bucks.

<thinking in progress.....>
Now that you mention the nut driver...

I do have a 14v Dewalt drill I dont use anymore. Since the battery is dying, and is too expensive to replace since I have an 18v drill, maybe I will look into that. It should be less torque and already has a clutch which eliminates the need for a deadman switch. I should be able to build a AC/DC converter using the battery charger. Hmm, I need to revisit John Nixon's motorized lift page again...

Thanks for the mental jump start....



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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-02-2009, 03:11 PM
 
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Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Hi Kenichi

I'm a cheap old SOB ,,,,,I don't keep the nut driver in the lift all the time I use it for what it was made for then when I need it in lift it just snaps in place.. and then back out...takes less than 3 sec.to put it into place..1,2,3 and it's set to do one more job

=====
He, he. I can appreciate that. I was a twigget in the Navy, so I like to keep my hands in things. The design and wiring of this would be a fun project. It would also feed my craving for gadgets, and even better it would be a homemade (sort of) gadget!
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-02-2009, 10:29 PM
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Kenichi,
I don't think you have to bastardize your charger. You should be able buy a "wall-wart" 110v-> 12v or 14 v DC transformer pretty cheap.
Also, you could take an attempt at "zapping" the battery of your 14v. setup, in oder to keep it all functioning, like Bob. There is information out there about that. I hesitate to link to it since results can be less than fortuitous.

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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-18-2009, 05:35 PM
 
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Default on hold....

I'll keep that in mind as I go. Unfortunately, I am now in the process of moving, so the shop is closed until I complete the move, remodel a bathroom, fix the rotting wood under the stoop, frame and finish the basement where the shop will go, move the tools into the new shop, re-organize everything to fit in the smaller space, then, gods willing, I can get back to doing...
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-10-2010, 09:03 PM
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Hi,
What is a lab jack and where can I get one? Thanks!
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