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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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Default table top?

I'm working on my new top today and have a few questions about the all important top?

1.How much overhang over the cabinet do you think is just right on all sides?

2.How far from the edge of the table do you think the center of the router should be?

3. I have two 3/4 MDF's glued together. I know I will make a template to cut out the plate, but do you think I should do a rough cut first with a jig saw, smooth all that up with a bearing or bushing bit, and then come back and do the rabbet. And is it best to put the laminate on first or last?

Thanks all,

Tom
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 10:37 AM
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Tom,

I will give you my two cents, I am sure others will be along to give theirs as well
My current (and first) table was 20" by 30" which has served me well over the years. Then I bought a 24" Incra Jig...the table is seriously undersized for this and I am planning to create a new top and eventually a cabinet to set it on. The new dimensions will be on the largish size of 28" by 42". This serves several purposes. It lets me take advantage of the long Incra Jig (how far back do you anticipate the fence going?), gives me room in front of the fence for working with large pieces (cabinet doors and the like), and I plan to use the table for an assembly area (cramped garage space). So short answer is, it really depends on your needs and what you plan to do on the table.

Since I will be using the table for assembly as well, I was planning on about a 2" overhang. There seems to be an endless need to clamp things to the table and the overhang will provide enough depth to get the job done.

If you are going to route out the insert opening, you should do this with the laminate on, otherwise you will not correctly account for the thickness of the laminate. There are a few different ways to route the opening that I have seen. For me, I plan to make a template out of scrap, test that with the real plate (maybe even do a test route on scrap), and use a pattern bit to cut the shoulder, then cut out the remainder with a jig saw. The upside with the template is that if it doesn't come out quite right you can start over without having ruined your table top (like I did with my first table ).

I have just downloaded the free drawing tool, SketchUp from Google and plan to make a drawing of this over the next week. I will post that when I get it done, as I am also interested in the groups feedback.

- Frank
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dustmaker View Post
Since I will be using the table for assembly as well, I was planning on about a 2" overhang. There seems to be an endless need to clamp things to the table and the overhang will provide enough depth to get the job done.
Hi Frank:

I like your choice in overhang, as my router table design also incorporates the 2" overhang. I figure that one doesn't need let the top hang over too much -- just enough for clamping the fence or other things to the top.

Cassandra
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 03:41 PM
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That's what I did. See my post "making a table from a sink cut-out". I roughed out the opening about 3/4" smaller than the final rabbit for the router base template. Cleaned up the cut with a straight bit. Then made an exact template sized guide for the bearing guided bit to ride against for the final rabbit. I just sneaked up on the depth and got it right on. If you blow it and go a little too deep you can shim with tape etc. The guide for the final rabbit should be dead flat or the depth of your rabbit will waver. I used MDF for the guide material.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 04:33 PM
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Default Quick comment on Sketch-up

I've got to tell you I'm sold on the use of sketchup for this kind of thing. Enables you to plan very well before you spend any time or money on materials. Let's you see your work fairly realistically before you commit, etc., etc. A great tool for us woodworkers.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 05:03 PM
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Dave,
Nice job on the SU drawings. I do, however, think that the use of pocket screws on the table trim is a bit of overkill. All that is really required is a few pin nails to hold it in place while the glue dries.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 05:14 PM
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You're right, It's way easy to go nuts in sketchup.
I only used a few on the real thing. I don't have a nail gun, pocket screws helped me get things aligned dead flat before the glue dried, no banging on it with a hammer etc.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 06:19 PM
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You don't need to make a template. 4 pieces of scrap double-taped to the table along the edges of the insert will make the template.
I have 4" overlap on my table edges. I found there are many times you need that extra edge for clamping.
Pocket screws may have their place, but not here. Just glue and tape the edging, let it dry, and remove the tape.

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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Hey everyone, thanks for all your comments. I guess I need to put the time in to learn SketchUp. I keep putting it off, but it keeps coming back. Anybody have any comments on putting the laminate on before or after the cutout?
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 06:57 PM
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HI Tom

Think of how many sinks are installed in homes every day,the counter is almost always " laminate " in place 1st. that will give you a hint..


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Originally Posted by rolanddds View Post
Hey everyone, thanks for all your comments. I guess I need to put the time in to learn SketchUp. I keep putting it off, but it keeps coming back. Anybody have any comments on putting the laminate on before or after the cutout?



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