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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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Default Best Options for Table Switch?

I am in the process of reworking my router table and have decided to add an on/off switch. There are several options available including switches mounted to the table, both regular and paddle style, switches mounted behind the table and floor mounted switches which could be either the "dead man" style where power is applied only so long as pressure is applied to the switch or ones that would turn on if depressed once, then off if depressed again, etc., etc. I'm undecided about which would be best, but am leaning toward the "dead man" style. Any thoughts as to which is the best way to go, and why?

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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 11:47 AM
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Hi rstermer

I do like the dead man type,,once your foot is off the machine is off,most of the time you are wanting to move back away for the machine,I use them on the scroll saw,band saw,router table...and you always have the plug or the main power switch to over ride it so you don't just step on it in error,,

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I am in the process of reworking my router table and have decided to add an on/off switch. There are several options available including switches mounted to the table, both regular and paddle style, switches mounted behind the table and floor mounted switches which could be either the "dead man" style where power is applied only so long as pressure is applied to the switch or ones that would turn on if depressed once, then off if depressed again, etc., etc. I'm undecided about which would be best, but am leaning toward the "dead man" style. Any thoughts as to which is the best way to go, and why?

rstermer



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Last edited by bobj3; 06-09-2009 at 11:56 AM.
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 02:43 PM
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The only reason I don't use a deadman is I move too much. I'm always adjusting my stance and quite often when duplicating historic molding and trim I have the stock between the bit and fence.
In my case accidentally stopping the router might create more problems than the switch is worth.

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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 02:59 PM
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I am having an NVR switch. Mounted on strong magnets, to stick in 2 or 3 places on/under the table, with a push off floor switch. Both will take 200 watts. The foot switch will break the circuit. I will have the router Elu177/Dewalt 625ek on all the time. Switching on from the conveniently placed NVR switch.
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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I am having an NVR switch. Mounted on strong magnets, to stick in 2 or 3 places on/under the table, with a push off floor switch. Both will take 200 watts. The foot switch will break the circuit. I will have the router Elu177/Dewalt 625ek on all the time. Switching on from the conveniently placed NVR switch.

Hi MIke- Thanks for your reply. What is an "NVR" switch?
Thanks,
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 06:22 PM
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A light switch has served me well for a long time. I just mounted it in a box and ran a pigtail off it to plug the router into. KISS is the way to do things.

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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 06:35 PM
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I like the "constant on" foot witch. Like Ronald, I move my feet a lot.

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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 07:24 PM
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HI rstermer

JUst a butt in post Mike is in Altrincham.UK he should be in bed by now
" What is an "NVR" switch? "
Power Tool NVR Switch : Buy Power Tool NVR Switch at Axminster Power Tool Centre

"Power Tool NVR Switch

This is a very versatile NVR switch whose main function is the remote switching of power tools such as routers and circular saws when mounted in a table (Max wattage 2000W). The plug-in NVR switch offers a very convenient solution; fit the switch in a convenient position on the table, plug the tool into the switch and then plug the lead on the switch into the mains supply and away you go. You will need to devise a way of holding the machine switch in the on position so that it is over-ridden by the NVR; such as cable ties or plastic tape."
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Hi MIke- Thanks for your reply. What is an "NVR" switch?
Thanks,
RAS



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Last edited by bobj3; 06-09-2009 at 09:01 PM.
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AxlMyk View Post
A light switch has served me well for a long time. I just mounted it in a box and ran a pigtail off it to plug the router into. KISS is the way to do things.

hey Mike,

i may be too inexperienced to have an opinion, but i will have to agree with your light switch method. its working for me and for a simpleminded person like me, i like the kiss method ,lol well also, im a little on the cheap side

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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-10-2009, 02:42 AM
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The best solution is to have an emergency stop kill switch. The idea is to be able to quickly shut down when there is a problem. I use one of Rocklers first generation On/Off boxes on one table, which has a recessed start button and an easily available stop button exposed. The newer paddle type is a better choice. A standard wall switch is fine as long as it is easy to get to. Remember, this is for emergency stop situations only. You still need to use the router switch and unplug when making adjustments for safety.

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