Router Table For Incra LS Positioner (25") - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-23-2009, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Default Router Table For Incra LS Positioner (25")

I just purchased one of these (Hartville Tool is having 20% off until the end of June on all Incra) and must build a new router table top to accommodate it. My current table uses the MDF sandwich (3/4" + 3/4") with formica laminate on each side. I want to try a different route to reduce costs a bit as well as work with a material I've always wanted to work with but never had a good excuse - baltic birch ply.

The commercial table size sold for the Incra 25" model is 32" X 53". I plan to modify mine to dimensions of 28" x 53". If repeat the MDF sandwich of my current set-up, it will require 2 sheets of MDF + the cost of laminate and contact cement - about $120. As an alternative, I'm contemplating building the top from two 3/4" layers of baltic birch ply laminated in a vacuum press. I could get by with one 5' x 5' sheet for about $60. Also, I wouldn't laminate with formica. Instead, I would apply multiple coats of polyurethane for protection from moisture/abrasion. I realize that I may need to re-coat periodically.

Does anyone have experience with this type of top? Does my planned approach raise any red flags? Thanks.

Joe
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-23-2009, 02:57 PM
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Having tried polished Birch tops and a Formica top. I would recommend the Formica. Lip all for edges with a good solid timber. I would go as far as lip the router plate support cut out. Formica top and bottom. Trim edges and round corners. Cut recess for router plate in the oversized solid centre frame. Polish all wood surfaces (3 coats poly finish) and you will have a table top that will do you proud for many years.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-23-2009, 03:28 PM
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Hi Joe,

My concern would be flatness. Applying a finish could result in high and low spots, although I don't know if this would result in an unworkable top, maybe not. With a Formica top you are more likely to have a smooth flat surface.

On the table dimensions, you can certainly build any size you want, but I wonder how often you would really use that full 25" length. I have the older 25" Incra and have had it for years. I don't think I ever used the full length for anything. I am in the process of building a larger table, but I was thinking about 28 by 42 inches. If I ever need that extra foot of length I would probably add an addendum to the table, similar to what this fellow did. Just something to think about, as I said, it's your table and you should be happy with it!

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Woodworking is more than a hobby.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-23-2009, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your suggestions. I have my current table edged in hardwood but I never thought of outlining the insert opening in that way and I'll seriously consider it.

I thought about flatness too. I do plan on using most of the capacity to dovetail larger pieces, possibly casework. Although I imagine this will entail building some type of sled or add-on to the right angle fixture. I may go my tried and true route of the Formica/MDF/Formica sandwich. Whatever I choose, I'll post pics of the build.

Joe
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-23-2009, 04:57 PM
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If we seal the outer edges so they don't absorb moisture, do the inside edges too.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-24-2009, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
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Mike,
I sealed the inside edges (insert cutout) of my existing table with paste wax. Its worked well for several years but the MDF is somewhat fragile in this area which always concerned me. I may line the insert cutout with a cabinet grade ply or hardwood to both seal the mdf and add structural support. It would also make it easier to add leveling screws.

Joe
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