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Build an economy table top and install a mounting plate

80K views 93 replies 48 participants last post by  LBussy 
#1 · (Edited)
Object: Build a router table top and install a mounting plate for maximum value. This project is for beginning skill level and up.

Materials required:
1 Rockler phenolic impregnated Baltic birch plywood, 3/4" x 24" x 32".
1 Grizzly PT10432047 "insert". (Mounting plate)
1 Rousseau RM3509-T Template mounting kit
1 roll double sided carpet tape.
1 bottle of thread lock.
Total cost: Under $70

Tools required:
A plunge router that accepts PC style guide bushings.
Brass set up bars.
A 1/2" solid carbide spiral up cut bit with a cutting length of 2".
A saw.
A drill motor
A 5/16" drill bit.
Two C clamps
A punch with an end diameter of 1/4".
A hammer.
A tape measure.
Scissors.
Safety glasses and hearing protection.

Begin by cutting 2" off the length of the board which will leave it at 24" x 30". I did this with my panel sled on my table saw (Photo 1) but you can use a circular or hand saw with a guide jig. The next step is to rip cut the board to 16" width. I used the fence on my table saw as a guide. (Photo 2) Save the 2" x 24" and 8" x 30" pieces for building a fence.
Clamp your board onto saw horses or a table edge. Position the mounting plate 4-3/4" from the end of the board with it's length running across the short span and center it. (Photo 3) Apply the carpet tape around the guide and press firmly into place. Remove the backing paper from the tape and center the fiber board template on the mounting plate. There will be about 1/16" opening around the mounting plate. Press the template firmly down onto your board. Remember all set up is done with the router unplugged. Install the special guide bushing in your router, and install the 1/2" router bit. (Photo 4) Position your router in the lower left corner so the guide bushing is against the templates two sides. Lower the bit until it contacts the wood and lock it in place. Using a 1/2" and a 3/8" set up bar stacked to equal 7/8" set the depth stop. This will allow the cutter to extend just past the bottom of your board for a clean cut. Release the plunge lock so the bit rises into the router base. At this point I suggest you get someone to help hold the board in place. Even when tightly clamped I had some movement and had BrianS hold the board to prevent this. Be sure you are both wearing safety glasses and hearing protection, check to be sure the router switch is in the off position and plug the router in. Turn on the power and plunge the bit through the board. Lock the router in the down position and follow the template clockwise around the hole. (Photo 5) The inside will drop free of the board when the cut is complete. Raise the bit, shut the router off and unplug it. Using the Allen wrench provided remove the spacer ring from the guide bushing. Position the router in the lower left corner, lower and lock the router so the bit is touching the black lip. Use the lip of your mounting plate to adjust the depth stop. Release the plunge so the bit raises up into the router base. Again have someone hold the board to prevent movement. Check that the router switch is in the off position, plug the router in and turn the router on. Follow the template in a clockwise direction until the lip has been cut. Raise the bit back into the router base, turn the router off and unplug it. Clean away all the dust and set the mounting plate into the opening. The plate should set just below the table surface. There will be about 1/32" play from end to end and side to side. This is normal. Mark the location of the 4 corner holes onto the lip. I used a transfer punch but a nail would work fine. Lift the plate out and set it aside. Drill the 5/16" holes just deep enough for the magnets to sit flush in the corners. Use the Allen wrench to check the hole depth at the side of the hole and compare it to the magnet. Your board should now look like Photo 6. Insert the magnets into the holes and lightly tap into place with the punch and hammer. If you have a magnet that is too low you can use a 1/8" drill bit and drill through from the other side to push the magnet out. A drop of epoxy in the hole should cure this problem. When your magnets are flush put the mounting plate back into the opening. Remove the template and carpet tape. Apply the thread locker to the Allen screws and turn them into the corner holes with the Allen wrench provided. Start off a bit low until all the screws are in place and then level the plate to the table surface. The input side can be a hair lower than the table surface, and the output side can be a hair above the table surface. This will let your material pass easily through. Let the plate sit until the thread locker sets up per the instructions. I prefer to use Vibratite for this. It is the only thread locker that can be readjusted and after 24 hours it re locks the fastener. Photo 7 shows the finished table top in the back of Brian's van for the trip home.

Why 16" x 30"? This is the size of the Router Workshop table top. It will handle any job you throw at it.

Why no T tracks? You can clamp any accessories in place or add the tracks if you choose to. They are really not needed.

What about building a fence or table cabinet? These will be covered in other threads.
 

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#2 ·
Mike,

A very useful thread that will be referenced long into the future. I like your no-nonsense, keep it simple approach...this should help jump start many new to this type of woodworking and the portability is a bonus.

The cost is actually probably less when you discount for the fact that you will be using that double sided tape and thread lock on many projects down the road.

I also like the use of the template...it takes some of the mystery out of making the recess. I made my own template by: 1) drawing the shape on a piece of scrap, 2) drilling the corners with a bit of appropriate radius, 3) sawing to within 1/16" of the sides, 4) clamping a straight edge along each line, 5) using a flush trim bit to "connect" the corners. The resulting template can be then used to route the recess with a pattern matching bit. I was a wee bit shy and tested the template on another piece of scrap. It was a good tight, level fit and so I routed my table top with confidence. Did this all just last evening and hope to post pics soon.
 
#4 ·
Well written, very useful. Now if I can just remember to reference someone here!!
 
#5 ·
I just finished my table tonight, that phenolic impregnated baltic birch sounds really great for a surface, though I ended up building mine out of re-purposed melamine desktop material. Free is better than 29.99 :) When I think it's time for a new table, I could definitely see myself using that. I think it was better for me to use the melamine since my routing skills aren't so hot yet, and I did make a few small mistakes where the router bit off more than I wanted it to. Now that I've done all the major steps once, I'd be less likely to ruin a better tabletop surface.

Even if I didn't have the extra melamine laying around, I just saw that Lowes is selling 97"x16" melamine shelving (3/4" thickness) for $18. With that much material, I could have completely failed twice and still have enough to make a tabletop. Taking note of advice found here, I attached a length of poplar under my tabletop to act as a stiffening board and help reduce sagging over time. Since my table is already on the small side, I don't think it will sag much.

I'm really looking forward to the guide on building a fence. I hope it includes some ideas for dust management since after this project, I can really see that I need it :)
 
#6 ·
Do you find it neccessary to use external devices to hold a plate down? My old table is now about 17 yeasrs old, both plates that I have had have been held down by the weight of the router and nothing else and nothing has ever moved.
 
#7 ·
If you are referring to the 4 corner screws, I think they are simply leveling screws that give you some room for adjustment to make sure the plate lies level. I put in a similar setup on my table. The weight of the router does indeed hold it in place, though my plate would shake like a wobbly restaurant table until I adjusted the 4 leveling screws at the corners.
 
#9 ·
Derek, the installation kit is designed for the Rousseau mounting plate. (Trend sells a copy of this) The Harbor Freight mounting plate measures almost the same. The HF mounting plate comes with the corner magnets that the adjusting screws ride on. Rousseau includes what they call corner snuggers which are plastic clips to stop any movement of the plate in the hole and height adjusters. I do not consider either of these hold downs, and the plate is free to be lifted out at all times.
 
#10 ·
Hi guys, I want to mount my router in my long Delta Unisaw Extension Table. I would like to have a nice router lift with large plate and plenty of options. I currently own a Ryobi 3 1/4 hp and a smaller Porter Cable. I have the Ryobi mounted on a Hartsville router table complete with fence etc., BUT. . .I don't like it and want to be able to raise and lower the router from above and would like the extra shop space by eliminating the router table/cabinet.
1. I would apprecaite susggestins as to a nice router lift that will hold up well.
2. When I go to cut the opening in my extension table, how far back should I positon
the lift and plate and do most of you add a miter gage & hold down tracks , in front of the plate?

Pat Harris
Lexington, SC
 
#12 ·
2. When I go to cut the opening in my extension table, how far back should I positon
the lift and plate and do most of you add a miter gage & hold down tracks , in front of the plate?

Pat Harris
Lexington, SC
Pat;
I put my insert hole in the middle and to the left of center. I can mount my Incra jig that way.
I use T-tracks and a miter track. They will come in handy at times, although many say you don't need them at all. If you question the need, don't install them. You can always add them later. Here's mine.
 
#16 ·
Mike, I apreciate your posting and what appears a no nonsense comprehensive way to build a router table top, I will at a later date build such a top to compliment my garage come workshop
Let me add after my frustration of postings as I mentioned else where, these forums like others I subscribe to are the most informative ways to seek help for project you may undertake
Again thanks
David
 
#18 ·
Caution on the Harbor Freight insert.

One caution on the Harbor Freight router insert. I bought one and upon installation found mine was not flat; it was bowed/dished out in the center. Since most of my router work could also be done with a chainsaw (and sometimes it looks the part) this is not an issue for me. Serious users might want to check to confirm any insert is truely flat and that it has not developed a bow over time - either from manufacturing or from the weight of the router suspended from the insert.
 
#19 ·
my harbor freight doesn't carry the plate and they had a difficult time even understanding what I was trying to buy. I guess I have to order online, if possible. First, I'll try the local Woodcraft, which provides excellent service and will do some rudimentary training on stuff when I buy it for the first time.
 
#20 ·
Bill, the HF mounting plate is only available to order online, on sale now for $15. This plate is flat in design but many do not meet specs. The Rousseau plate which the HF plate and many others are styled after is not flat, it is slightly convex which causes the wood to always pass the bit at exactly the same height. It is the only plate which is not flat; it is also the most popular plate in the world.(Also sold under the Trend name) Woodcraft carries this plate, the mounting template and the installation kits.
 
#21 ·
already bought the Rousseau at Woodcraft. They had another make in Phenolic and I asked what the difference was besides the extra $10 over the Rousseau. The guy said basically none and recommended the Rousseau. Didn't buy the template, thought I'd wing it. After much high level thinking, I'm going back for the template :)
 
#23 ·
I can't find a Rousseau RM3509-T Template mounting kit but, I do see a Rousseau 3509 9-Inch x 12-Inch x 3/8-Inch Deluxe Router Base Plate for $38.95 and the Rockler phenolic impregnated baltic birch plywood, 3/4" x 24" x 32" $39.99. At this point we're already talking $78.28 + tax for Rockler. I found no Harbor Freight router mounting plate off or online. Still just under $80 for the main parts isn't bad.

Let's add Incra TTRACKREG36 36-Inch T-Track $13.58 and INCRA Build-It Knobs, 1/4-20 x 1 1/2" Bolts, Washers (Set of 8) $10.99 we're now at $102.85, still not too bad I guess.

Drill the 5/16" holes just deep enough for the magnets to sit flush in the corners.
Where are these magnets coming from that you are talking about?

The thread is great but I think I'm missing some things here or the instructions and parts list needs updated.
 
#25 ·
I have mounted my router off centre. It can be a little more versatile and support more of the job. I route a lot of guitar bodies. I also use an Incra Ultra and a lot of table area could be wasted due to this device if not properly sited. I cannot bear to buy knobs. I laminate,turn, or route wooden ones with threaded inserts. They can be so expensive to buy. I would rather buy router bits instead.
 
#26 ·
Didnt know if this might be a good spot to post this link but it feels like it might be. 28 free router table designs, I just finished going through these and there is really only one or two that I like and they are of course the most elaborate but there are alot of simple no nonsense tables as well. At minimum an array of options promoting a ton of ideas.

One other thing i also liked was the mention of everything from no plate to using an 3/8" acrylic plate. Much cheaper than buying a pre-made plate and offers up the option for light penetration from a light installed in the router containment box. At any rate worth checking out and giving a guy confidence that an effective table can be built without shelling out the cash for all the pre-made items from various suppliers.

here is the link ToolCrib.com's Ultimate Guide: 28 Free Router Table Plans |

If someone thinks this should be placed elsewhere either let me know or let the moderator know, thank you.
 
#27 ·
Paul,
you can build a table of anything yo like, my first one was a piece of scrylic sheet with a batten screwed to it to clamp in a vice, I mounted a trim router on it.
Some 15to 18 years agop Ibuilt one on an old cabinet with a kitchen worktop on it, I still have it, I used to begin with a piece of alloy for a plate at the start, total build about £4:00 sterling.
Derek.
 
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