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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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Default A happy accident?

This isn't the usual Show and Tell.
Here: I show and you tell.
I've made the cuts and routing for the angled clock. I had started doing this by Bob and Rick's instructions of doing the 30 cuts before using their joint jig.

Here's my picture.
Please tell me why I have spaces at the top of the pegs (?). The two pieces are snugly fitted.

Was the stock not square before I started? ..... That's the only thing I can imagine. But if it wasn't square, why would those spaces be across the entire piece.?

Yup.... there were a couple "happy accidents" with a spining bit but nothing that would contribute to this..... or is that the way they all are?

I'm really confused.
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"Later mon"

Barb
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 02:34 PM
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Hi Barb

It's fine and it's the best way to do it...just tap in down all the way ,at glue/clamp up time and use a trim bit clean off the pins that are just a little bit proud on the bottom/front side, once the glue drys,then do a little sanding

I would suggest using a board 3/8" wider, or more so the pins come out the same on both parts,,it's not a big deal, only if you are going to round over the edges ( stop and start round overs) ..you can always rip them on the table saw to get them to match


========

Quote:
Originally Posted by nikki1492 View Post
This isn't the usual Show and Tell.
Here: I show and you tell.
I've made the cuts and routing for the angled clock. I had started doing this by Bob and Rick's instructions of doing the 30 cuts before using their joint jig.

Here's my picture.
Please tell me why I have spaces at the top of the pegs (?). The two pieces are snugly fitted.

Was the stock not square before I started? ..... That's the only thing I can imagine. But if it wasn't square, why would those spaces be across the entire piece.?

Yup.... there were a couple "happy accidents" with a spining bit but nothing that would contribute to this..... or is that the way they all are?

I'm really confused.


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Last edited by bobj3; 08-06-2009 at 02:49 PM.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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Hey BJ, Thanks for the help. I am using 3/4" clear pine. The instructions are to use 5/8" but I don't have a planer.

I've got to get a planer soon. I'm having delivered 200 board feet of red oak that has been freshly sawed. It's all coming tonight and I'm excited. Delivery with 8' and 10' boards all 8" wide for $125.00. The $25.00 is for delivery, $100.00 for 200 bf of red oak..... what do you think?

I went to the local hardware who generally does only construction grade and got a decent piece of clear pine 1X8X10 for $25.00... so that's my reference point for this conclusion.

I love exotic woods but I really prefer to use native (to where I live) wood. That's my statement with my projects.

For now I will be using 3/4" stock until I get a planer.

Thanks for the graphic. Gotta ask if you passed the mind reading class in school, cause I do want to round off the edges. I really didn't know how or where until you showed me..... Thanks so much, BJ., man you're good

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Hi Barb

It's fine and it's the best way to do it...just tap in down all the way ,at glue/clamp up time and use a trim bit clean off the pins that are just a little bit proud on the bottom/front side, once the glue drys,then do a little sanding

I would suggest using a board 3/8" wider, or more so the pins come out the same on both parts,,it's not a big deal, only if you are going to round over the edges ( stop and start round overs) ..you can always rip them on the table saw to get them to match


========

"Later mon"

Barb
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 06:39 PM
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Hi Barb

Your Welcome

It can be any size you want to use,,the thick stock is a lot better I think ,like 1 1/4" thick some of the clocks are 3/4" to 1 1/8" thick sometimes.. ( glue up two boards to get the extra you need sometimes) or old barn wood,tree,tree limbs,etc.it's best Not to drill the hole all the way,, keeps the dust out of clock,just a nice clean pocket hole for the clock... the small ones are just a nice clean press in type all you can see is the clock face..

When you the use glass type front they need the extra room to set the glass in the pocket and the bezel and the clock guts


=====



Quote:
Originally Posted by nikki1492 View Post
Hey BJ, Thanks for the help. I am using 3/4" clear pine. The instructions are to use 5/8" but I don't have a planer.

I've got to get a planer soon. I'm having delivered 200 board feet of red oak that has been freshly sawed. It's all coming tonight and I'm excited. Delivery with 8' and 10' boards all 8" wide for $125.00. The $25.00 is for delivery, $100.00 for 200 bf of red oak..... what do you think?

I went to the local hardware who generally does only construction grade and got a decent piece of clear pine 1X8X10 for $25.00... so that's my reference point for this conclusion.

I love exotic woods but I really prefer to use native (to where I live) wood. That's my statement with my projects.

For now I will be using 3/4" stock until I get a planer.

Thanks for the graphic. Gotta ask if you passed the mind reading class in school, cause I do want to round off the edges. I really didn't know how or where until you showed me..... Thanks so much, BJ., man you're good



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

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http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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Now I've got a question about the clock hole that I didn't think about before. If the hole is not the entire way through how do you set/reset the time? Does the insert pull out easily for that?

Now I'm doing what I do best..... asking questions.... <tee hee hee>

Hey BJ..... the red oak was delivered tonight..... not bad at all. Even more importantly I've now got a contact in the sawmill business..... he's already going to look for cherry and walnut for me. But not 200 bf..... <grin> I knew this was how it worked and now I've got my foot in the door.... I'm a happy camper!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Hi Barb

Your Welcome

It can be any size you want to use,,the thick stock is a lot better I think ,like 1 1/4" thick some of the clocks are 3/4" to 1 1/8" thick sometimes.. ( glue up two boards to get the extra you need sometimes) or old barn wood,tree,tree limbs,etc.it's best Not to drill the hole all the way,, keeps the dust out of clock,just a nice clean pocket hole for the clock... the small ones are just a nice clean press in type all you can see is the clock face..

When you the use glass type front they need the extra room to set the glass in the pocket and the bezel and the clock guts


=====

"Later mon"

Barb
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 11:56 PM
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Hi Barb

Yep they snap out easy, with just your finger nail as a pry bar all one unit clock with a one battery in it..with a small plastic knob to set the time..some have a stem on the side of the face like a pocket watch..but very small and short..

The high end ones have knobs that unscrew from the clock and you can drill a small hole for them on the back side neat and clean
I have in the pass use the cap off a spray can of paint ( clear cap type) cut it down a bit for a good dust cover on the back side..(for 3/8" thick to 5/8" thick stock)

Great to have a ton of stock on had, small tip find a mate or a lumber yard to mill the wood for now, you will be money ahead of the game.


I can not knock the way Bob and Rick make the clock but I will tell you how I make them

I start with long stock,put the 30 deg. cut on both ends then put in the slots,then cut it into two parts, line the parts up so the edges are the same then put masking tape on the two parts and rip the parts at the same time to get it a matched set, then put the pocket hole in for the clock on dead center,,then use a 1/8" round over on the edges.glue and clamp if needed and then use the trim bit to remove the proud pins,sand,seal,finish coat, pop in the clock and give it away


=====

========




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Last edited by bobj3; 08-07-2009 at 10:48 AM.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-07-2009, 09:08 AM
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Hello Barb! I have not seen anything about drying. To keep as much of the wood, it should be dries. Did i Miss something?

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-07-2009, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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You didn't miss anything.... after helping unload and stack the lumber in the basement with ?stringers? (narrow pieces of wood the width of the stack) between the layers I was too tired to tell all.

The top 2 layers are the driest and able to be worked with now. The rest is properly stacked to dry.

I don't know much about newly sawed lumber but I love to ask questions and learn... that's what I do best.

I'm taking my circular saw down today and zing a few boards in half to bring up and see what all needs to be done with them.... besides needing a jointer and thickness planer. Man.. I didn't realize what an expensive hobby this was.
But too late, I'm hooked now.

Thanks for your concern, Howard. I need you all to keep an eye on what I do so I do what is right. Cause I'm certainly on new ground.

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Hello Barb! I have not seen anything about drying. To keep as much of the wood, it should be dries. Did i Miss something?

"Later mon"

Barb
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-07-2009, 12:56 PM
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Barb you will enjoy milling your own wood. It might be cheaper to have someone else do it but the experience is priceless. You can always look for a second hand jointer and planer to get you started. You don't need to buy huge ones, you can work with smaller ones and then glue boards up for wider projects. It's really great to come across cheap rough lumber and then mill it up to beautiful wood!

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-07-2009, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Deb, thanks for the encouragement.... I really want that experience! I am looking for used items because for me that is instant gratification.... A lot more instant than saving for a new one of anything. Ya know?

The only big item I've ever had in mind... and the one thing that got me going in this all is the table/chair. I've wanted one for decades.... first I thought I'd have someone build one for me but that's not me. I ask "why?" a lot.... and I could see no reason why I couldn't do it myself. Just thinking about it makes me excited. It's beginning to take shape in my mind.... can you imagine what the simple lines of it would do for local red oak.

Dang... wish I could wiggle my nose and I would have it done and finished.

Well.... that's the goal but I plan to have great fun/experiences along the way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CanuckGal View Post
Barb you will enjoy milling your own wood. It might be cheaper to have someone else do it but the experience is priceless. You can always look for a second hand jointer and planer to get you started. You don't need to buy huge ones, you can work with smaller ones and then glue boards up for wider projects. It's really great to come across cheap rough lumber and then mill it up to beautiful wood!

"Later mon"

Barb
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