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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-07-2009, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Question Bum Bit??

First attempt at rails and stiles. Supposed to have a wainscot project coming up so I took BobJs' advice the other nite and dug up a ogee bit to practice rails/stiles with. Well everything went pretty well until I tried to fit them together. Actually, not to bad, practicing on #2 pine.
Anyway, all I can think of at this point is cheap bit, bad profile.
Fence is set flush with the bearing and I think the bit height is OK as the faces are flush. I plan on using the MLCS Waincot bit set for the real project but I wanted another opionion on my conclusions. The set I am practicing with is a starter set I got second hand and have no clue what name is associated with it.
Attached pictures of the joint and bit set I am using. Any other ideas? I tried removing the bearing and moving the fence back 1/64" but the stock rode up on the bearing boss a bit.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-07-2009, 02:29 PM
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Either a "bum bit" or one that has been reground poorly.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-07-2009, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Talking

Thanks for the quick comeback Mike.
Looking at the pictures though, maybe it would help if I moved the fence forward a bit. Amazing what a photo does, looking at the joint I kept thinking "move it back" but I think I will try moving it up tonite when I get back from work. This is just scrap and basically tuition after all.
Seems like since the same bit cut both profiles without a change in height or depth, they should be a mirror of each other, regardless of whether or not the profiles themselves are "correct".

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-07-2009, 03:43 PM
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HI John

Try it one more time but do watch the MLCS video one more time,note how to set the bit height and how from the fence it should be, do note that both parts must be the same thickest,dead on
Butt I think it comes down how the bit was cut(made),not all bits are made the same
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ting_sets.html

" Two flute carbide tipped bit with totally enclosed ball bearing guide.
1/4" Radius, 1-1/2" Large Diam., 1/2"' Shank "
=======




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Last edited by bobj3; 09-08-2009 at 03:32 PM.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-08-2009, 02:25 PM
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Hi John

Here's some snapshots, they may help

I had some scrap stock and made a small set to show it can be done with one bit the norm that you have on hand,just about any bit will do the job , the top rail can be made many ways

It's best to use wide stock then put the edge (ends) on the stock then rip it to the right size then put on the other edges on..

Think Kreg pocket screws b/4 you mount it to the wall.it that way you don't have any nail holes to fill ,just lay it out on the floor, put in the pocket screws and then glue it to the wall

( liquid nails construction adhesive )

If you are going use bead board/plywood you will need to put on a rabbit edges on all the back side of the parts but that's a easy job on the router table

Here's quick way to setup the bit up just right,,use the center mark on the bit,make a pass on some scrap stock, about 12" long then cut it into two parts, flip one of them over, slide it together, it should fit just right if so you are set to run the rest of the stock,if not move the bit up or down just a little bit so it comes out flush, you don't want to do any sanding..

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-PC-1-2-Sh-Clas...d=p3911.c0.m14

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-2-SH-Door...d=p3911.c0.m14

=======



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Last edited by bobj3; 09-08-2009 at 08:34 PM.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-09-2009, 01:08 AM Thread Starter
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Talking

Hi Bob, thanks for taking the time to put together the tutorial for me. Helps a lot.
I reviewed the video a couple of times. Picked up on what he was using for a push block and that he virtually ignored the bearing. For bit height he was using a feature on the classic profile that doesn't exist on the ogee so I wrestled with that for awhile, not quite being sure where the center of the profile was. Instead I used the two straight parts of the profile. The parts at the top and bottom of the work piece as it goes through the table. I adjusted bit height until they were equal.
I then started making a test set. I started with the fence about a quarter inch ahead of the bearing and moved the fence back 1/64 at a time until I had a good fit. Then checked the surfaces for flush and was still out about 1/64 so adjusted bit height 1/128 and came out on the button.
Developed a new appreciation for the microadjust feature while I was at it.
Anyway, thanks to your assistance, I think I finally have a handle on the mechanics of it. Today I went to work on repeatability and built a coping sled out of some scrap birch ply I have had hanging around. Made this one so it could run flat on the table or vertically against the fence. Seems to work fine.
Thanks again
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-09-2009, 10:45 AM
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Hi John

Your Welcome

The sled you made will do the trick just fine good job
You now know the trick is not to use a standard sled ,keep all parts going by the bit at the same place, you didn't say if you used wider stock but that little trick makes the job easy and safe..

=========


Quote:
Originally Posted by jschaben View Post
Hi Bob, thanks for taking the time to put together the tutorial for me. Helps a lot.
I reviewed the video a couple of times. Picked up on what he was using for a push block and that he virtually ignored the bearing. For bit height he was using a feature on the classic profile that doesn't exist on the ogee so I wrestled with that for awhile, not quite being sure where the center of the profile was. Instead I used the two straight parts of the profile. The parts at the top and bottom of the work piece as it goes through the table. I adjusted bit height until they were equal.
I then started making a test set. I started with the fence about a quarter inch ahead of the bearing and moved the fence back 1/64 at a time until I had a good fit. Then checked the surfaces for flush and was still out about 1/64 so adjusted bit height 1/128 and came out on the button.
Developed a new appreciation for the microadjust feature while I was at it.
Anyway, thanks to your assistance, I think I finally have a handle on the mechanics of it. Today I went to work on repeatability and built a coping sled out of some scrap birch ply I have had hanging around. Made this one so it could run flat on the table or vertically against the fence. Seems to work fine.
Thanks again



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

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http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-09-2009, 02:12 PM
 
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It appears to me that the two bits are not matched. For rail and stile cutting, you must use a matched set of bits. It looks like yours are close but close doesnt do it for this joint...in my book.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-09-2009, 02:56 PM
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Hi John

It just takes one bit to made both cuts ( rail and stile parts) that's the best part of making this type of joint..but you do need a top rail bit for the molding cap rail..but it can be just about any type of bit for that job.

The Classical Router Bit works the best because it comes with a center mark on the bit so to speak and that's real key to them to match up.


Wainscoting Router Bit Sets Home Improvement Project

========



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Last edited by bobj3; 09-09-2009 at 03:02 PM.
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