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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-26-2009, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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Default Base plate opening

I am new to this forum and also to woodworking in general. My problem today is the base plate opening for the router table I have made. After spending many hours on the table, it seems that I have made the base plate opening too big all around ( width, length, and depth. ) causing vibration, noise, and poor cuts. the table is mdf. Any suggestions as to how to fix this ?
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-26-2009, 06:36 PM
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Hi Bob

By how much ? and how deep..?)

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Originally Posted by drbbob View Post
I am new to this forum and also to woodworking in general. My problem today is the base plate opening for the router table I have made. After spending many hours on the table, it seems that I have made the base plate opening too big all around ( width, length, and depth. ) causing vibration, noise, and poor cuts. the table is mdf. Any suggestions as to how to fix this ?



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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-26-2009, 07:04 PM
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Welcome to the forum Bob.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-27-2009, 02:24 AM
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Could you make a couple of 8mm thick discs, with different sized holes to suit your bits. Rebate your present opening to 8mm depth, and slip in a disc to fill the space.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-27-2009, 02:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drbbob View Post
I am new to this forum and also to woodworking in general. My problem today is the base plate opening for the router table I have made. After spending many hours on the table, it seems that I have made the base plate opening too big all around ( width, length, and depth. ) causing vibration, noise, and poor cuts. the table is mdf. Any suggestions as to how to fix this ?
First, welcome to the forum. I am sure you will find it a place of great friendlieness with many more experienced members eageer to share their knowledge and experience, and where all learn from each other.
You will also find beneath the surface a long-standing discussion of metric vs. imperial mesurments.

At this point I have nothing to offer to help you other than to suggest that you get to our ten post count quickly so you can attach a picture of what is your situation.

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-27-2009, 04:13 AM
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Could you glue thin wood fillets into the recess and re-rout?
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-27-2009, 07:37 AM
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Hi Bob:

You haven't said what baseplate you have and a picture of the table to date would be good too. I've screwed up at least 4 table tops and used them until I got up the gumption to try again. I now build my table bases to accept exchangable tops.

Here's the scoop...

If you're not using an OakPark baseplate, it is possible that changing baseplates and recutting the recess to suit the OakPark baseplate would solve the problem. The OakPark tops are 11"x11".

My problem is that I use multiple baseplates in the same holes and none are the exact same thickness. There are several "kludges" that might help. I cut my insert very carefully using the OakPark method. This means that I have some confidence in how deep the flange is. To "adjust" from one baseplate to the other, I use the thinest, cheapest masking tape so "shim" up the baseplate. The masking tape can be continued up and part way across the edge of the baseplate to "fill in" that bit of excess.

An alternative is to put gussets across the four corners and set screws into the gussets so the heads become the bearing point.

Then, there's the "fancy" solution where you insert a thin wedge of some contrasting material around your baseplate, smooth it off so it's flush with the top of the baseplate and call the solution "marquetry."

The ideal solution would be to cut a new table top, this time using the OakPark method and shiis.

Just a collection of ideas that may help.

Allthunbs
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-27-2009, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for the welcome. The opening depth varies from 1/64 to 1/16 in. over spec. ( I must have tipped the router when making the cut. I am terrible at hand routing.) The perimiter is pretty consistant at 1/32 in. too large. the base plate is phenolic from woodpeckers. and all adjusting screws are maxed out. there is no picture. I have no camera.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-27-2009, 10:48 AM
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Hi Bob

That's not to bad, I would say just let it be, many ways to fix this error Longer screws would fix it to get it flat with the top, two small steel dowel (1/8" x 5/8" from Ace Hardware) in two corners to lock it in place so you can pull it or drop it in place easy...

Set it in place,drill the holes for the dowel pins,tap them in place then adjust the longer screws to get flat,adjust the longer screws from the under side with some blue stuff they use for gasket making to hold the screws from backing out..the blue stuff will let you tweak the screws just that little bit you may need..and yes the wood will hold the threads for the Allen set screws..

Wood working the art of fixing errors ..

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Originally Posted by drbbob View Post
Thank you all for the welcome. The opening depth varies from 1/64 to 1/16 in. over spec. ( I must have tipped the router when making the cut. I am terrible at hand routing.) The perimiter is pretty consistant at 1/32 in. too large. the base plate is phenolic from woodpeckers. and all adjusting screws are maxed out. there is no picture. I have no camera.



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Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-27-2009, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Ron-- thanks for the info. I kind of like the "marquetry" idea, but I'm not confident that I could locate the tremplate accuratly the second time. I should think about this for a day or two.
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