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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2009, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
 
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Default router table construction

I'm in the process of building a router table. As I'm building it from scratch, I was thinking of making it 4 ft. wide and about 26.5 in. deep. I thought that the large width would be handy when routing long pieces and an extra table of a good size would be handy in the shop. What are the up-sides and down-sides of my thinking?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2009, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Whittet View Post
I'm in the process of building a router table. As I'm building it from scratch, I was thinking of making it 4 ft. wide and about 26.5 in. deep. I thought that the large width would be handy when routing long pieces and an extra table of a good size would be handy in the shop. What are the up-sides and down-sides of my thinking?
Bob
Welcome, Bob! None! It totally depends on what you want/need. After all, you are the one using it, so only you can determine the correct size and height of your table.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2009, 09:04 PM
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Hi Bob:

Welcome to the forums!

If you haven't looked at the current discussion Are they better? (http://www.routerforums.com/general-...ey-better.html), I suggest you do. Many good points being discussed there.

Also, the issue of table size has been well discussed here in the forums. A search on table size might provide some details you are looking for.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Whittet View Post
I'm in the process of building a router table. As I'm building it from scratch, I was thinking of making it 4 ft. wide and about 26.5 in. deep. I thought that the large width would be handy when routing long pieces and an extra table of a good size would be handy in the shop. What are the up-sides and down-sides of my thinking?
Bob
I have noticed that a lot of people may make the table larger but still put the router at one end rather than the middle.
I am making my router table 42" x 33" to fit the frame I already have for it with 2" clearance on all sides in case I need a clamping surface.
I suspect though that I will place the router plate centered at only about 12" in from one side which is similar to what the setup was on one of the Jessem tables I have worked on. Do not want to have to stretch across the table too much to work.

I just added hardwood edging to mine last night. Screwed up and cut the dado straight through all 4 sides so I would have ended up with exposed holes on both ends so I decided to miter the corners instead. Somehow I managed to not get the corners to not match up well so there is a small gap on all 4 corners that I will have to fill in.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 04:30 PM
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Wouldn't placing the router where you plan to defeat the purpose of a large table? I would have thought that you need as much infeed as outfeed?

Or am I missing something I haven't encountered yet?
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 04:40 PM
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Hi David

Once the board is by the bit it's done more or less,, the way the router works..one point of contact unlike the table saw..where the fence is the key..the norm..


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Wouldn't placing the router where you plan to defeat the purpose of a large table? I would have thought that you need as much infeed as outfeed?

Or am I missing something I haven't encountered yet?



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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 06:49 PM
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My RT is 30X52 & the router is about 12" from the end (52" dimension) and a bit to the left of center (if standing at the end). As BJ says, you need more infeed than outfeed. Having it near the end does several things for me: (1) I will install drawers under the other end, (2) it's a comfortable distance from the edge when holding the wood in my hands, (3) it supports the long feed of my Incra fence and (4) when free-routing long pieces I can remove the fence and rotate the stock lengthwise on the top.

This top is only a few months old but the one that eventually replaces it will be larger, if anything.

Check out that new high-tech cordless router.. wireless and no recharging required!!
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the input Cassandra.
Bob
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-27-2009, 01:49 AM
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Hi David

Once the board is by the bit it's done more or less,, the way the router works..one point of contact unlike the table saw..where the fence is the key..the norm..


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So you are increasing your fence contact area at the expense of outfeed support. Hmmm. I need to digest this. Thanks.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-27-2009, 06:35 AM
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Thanks for the input Cassandra.
Bob
Glad to be of service. You're welcome!

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