Anyone converted a table saw to router table? - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 57 (permalink) Old 11-05-2009, 11:03 PM
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Hi Tyler

" grandpa's flux core welder " not that I know about but maybe, the welding rods burn very hot and heat up a wide path..because of the flux on the rods..

Z iron,,you got it

" JB Weld " I don't think I would trust it..one drop and you will have a nice door stop, I don't think it would be safe.. I know it holds well but to hang a router from it well ...

http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9102

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post #22 of 57 (permalink) Old 11-06-2009, 10:48 AM
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You will still need to preheat the CI before attempting to weld the CI. If not, you'll end up with cracks in the CI. JB Weld, works great... for certain things. I'm with Bj with this one. I wouldn't recommend using it to mount a router with.

Cast Iron is tricky and very difficult to work with. You'd be better off "brazing", (using a brass rod to weld), any pieces than trying to weld with a stick or wire welder.

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post #23 of 57 (permalink) Old 11-06-2009, 08:20 PM
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You guys scare me with all this welding, I'd hate to see all the work you are going through go down the tubes welding on this ( it can be done If you have experience in welding). This is where I would take the top to a machine shop and have them machine the under side where the router will go. This will make it flat and assure the router will be square with the top. This is where you need to be as accurate as possible if you are wanting to mount the router to the top without a plate. Almost all cast iron I've worked with is very easy to machine in a mill. Not so easy to weld. I just say this from experience; 40 years as a machinist.
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post #24 of 57 (permalink) Old 11-06-2009, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I really like the idea of attaching the router without any screws showing through on the top, but I'm beginning to think that trying to weld it might be more effort (or possibly risk) than it's worth. A few screw holes in the top isn't a horrible thing.

RStaron - Do you have a guess as to what I'd be looking at paying for having the bottom (just where the router mounts) machined flat and three holes put through the top for bolts?

Thanks,
Tyler
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post #25 of 57 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 12:01 AM
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Sorry I don't, I never had a need to price out jobs as I work in a factory maintaining their machinery and building new machinery. Prices may be different in VA than IL any way. I wouldn't think it would be too much but I would think it would be well worth it. I would try to find a small shop that is not too busy, they might give a better price and be more willing to do it for you. This post has me thinking of doing the same as I have an old Sears Table saw not being used. I bought it to use until I replaced the motor on my Shopsmith. I may take a look at it tomorrow. Good luck on the top.
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post #26 of 57 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 05:28 AM
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Tyler:

Quote:
Originally Posted by OneStaple View Post
RStaron - Do you have a guess as to what I'd be looking at paying for having the bottom (just where the router mounts) machined flat and three holes put through the top for bolts?
Further to Ron's comments, in Southern Ontario I had need to use a machine shop to thread ski rods. I went around to 3 or 4 before I found one that would do the work. One huge shop, all kinds of machinery etc. all of it bone idle, wanted $75 to start the job and costs could go up from there. I think there was a reason he had no work.

I eventually found a guy in the next town, a one-man operation, who thrived on "interesting stuff" from householders needing "inventions and fixes" realized. It still cost me $30 but at that point I was just happy to get it done. Check around machine shops for retired guys with their own equipment. Shop around - a lot depends on how hungry the machinists are.

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post #27 of 57 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RStaron View Post
You guys scare me with all this welding, I'd hate to see all the work you are going through go down the tubes welding on this ( it can be done If you have experience in welding). This is where I would take the top to a machine shop and have them machine the under side where the router will go. This will make it flat and assure the router will be square with the top. This is where you need to be as accurate as possible if you are wanting to mount the router to the top without a plate. Almost all cast iron I've worked with is very easy to machine in a mill. Not so easy to weld. I just say this from experience; 40 years as a machinist.

Hi Ron,

This is what I suggested from the beginning. We all realize cost is a factor but, to get it right and still be safe... isn't the cost worth it?

Ken

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post #28 of 57 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 09:58 AM
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Hi Tyler

Like I said ,,A big bag of snakes

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post #29 of 57 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 03:50 PM
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The way things have been going on this forum the last month or so safety should be top priority an building anything, not only building it but using it after it's built. To me the cost would be worth it. Everything else would be pretty easy to do yourself.
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post #30 of 57 (permalink) Old 11-08-2009, 01:39 AM Thread Starter
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I found the names of some machine shops that are local to me and I plan on giving them a call on Monday (that is, if I can swing doing so during business hours, as I'll be on a business trip). We'll see what types of prices are available. Hopefully I can find something reasonable, since not all that much metal needs to be removed.

I've almost finished attaching a hinge system so you can lift the front of the cast iron top to access the router. Hopefully I'll be able to finish that tomorrow and put some pictures up.

Tyler
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