Anyone converted a table saw to router table? - Page 6 - Router Forums
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post #51 of 57 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 10:31 PM
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Sorry, I can't say that I have. But I would not have any reservations on doing so in my DW735, granted in very light passes like nothing bigger than a 64th to start, and plan on one heck of a mess eve connected to DC. But if you are just trying to mill out a deep gouge, i would just sand it out. That is the biggest plus of corian, the ability to sand and buff, well also the weight compared to granite especially on a yacht.
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post #52 of 57 (permalink) Old 12-11-2009, 05:17 AM
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Sorry, I can't say that I have. But I would not have any reservations on doing so in my DW735, granted in very light passes like nothing bigger than a 64th to start, and plan on one heck of a mess eve connected to DC. But if you are just trying to mill out a deep gouge, i would just sand it out. That is the biggest plus of corian, the ability to sand and buff, well also the weight compared to granite especially on a yacht.
how does it handle heat -- hot pots -- knife cuts -- general kitchen abuse?

I have a kitchen to build and I'm looking for an inexpensive counter method. I was thinking of using oil sealed stacked spruce.

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post #53 of 57 (permalink) Old 12-11-2009, 07:36 AM
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We're getting off-topic from the original OP. Please start another thread or get back on the right topic.

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post #54 of 57 (permalink) Old 12-27-2009, 12:21 PM
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I like that idea, only thing I would have done differently would have been to get the router to one end of the insert hole, and use all three screws. I'm just not real easy with only two screws on a running router - especially fastened to an uneven mounting surface... would certainly get some hardened bolts. ( imagine a runaway router spinning at 22,000 RPM dropping out of the bottom of that cabinet - OUCH )

With T-blots in the miter slots I could see fastening a fence - provided the slots are T-slots, not just slots. Even a simple angle aluminum with a cutout for the bit - as I used on my first home-made router table.

Is the project done ?? How does it work ?? Where's the pics of the final product.
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post #55 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-08-2014, 04:17 PM
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I had an old table saw, a new Triton Router, and the Table Mounting Plate. An engineer friend came over and we removed the motor and adjusting rods/gears from under the Table Saw. Then we marked off the space we needed to mount the Router and Plate taking full advantage of one of the Miter Gauge slots, Fence, and Off-Feed Extension.

The Table Plate is held into position by some angle iron fastened to the bottom of the table out of the way of the router, and the Table Plate is screwed into that. By removing the face plate on the table saw, I have access to the adjustments on the router.

Now all I have to do is add some maple boards to the working side of the fence to accommodate my bits and keep the original metal fence away from the bit. I will also install some stops so the fence cannot move too far into the bit.

I hope this was helpful.
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post #56 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 03:08 PM
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Now seeing one, I can see why some would find an attraction to this way.

I see most may do this from seeing the cost of a used saw (free~50.00), in comparison to the iron extension sold by the likes of mlcs, bench dog, etc. for nearly 400.00 (scrap, iron with a hole in it, shouldn't be even a 1/10 of that price, maybe shipping but not cost 400.00 plus shipping.)

It is why I looked this thread up many years ago, due to I considered buying one of those extensions. But would never have worked for me, due to I have always liked my right side 72" rails and extension between rails. As well in such a small shop, I can add no more to left.

Last edited by BCR; 08-27-2019 at 03:10 PM.
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post #57 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 03:53 PM
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A LOT of opinions have been expressed on this particular topic over the years.
A search would likely bring up a number of other threads on this subject.
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