Miter track recommendation - Router Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-06-2009, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Default Miter track recommendation

Looking for a aluminum miter track in 36 inch length that will work with standard table saw miter gauges. Anyone have any good recommendations.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-06-2009, 10:52 PM
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That's available from most WW suppliers including:


Bench Dog Dual Track - Rockler Woodworking Tools
36'' Miter Track - Rockler Woodworking Tools
T-Track and T-Track Accessories
Large Miter Track - Parts & Accessories

and many others..

Check out that new high-tech cordless router.. wireless and no recharging required!!
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-09-2009, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccmnova View Post
Looking for a aluminum miter track in 36 inch length that will work with standard table saw miter gauges. Anyone have any good recommendations.
Most of the places I see sell in 32" length or 48".
I just ordered and installed some combo track from WoodPeck.com that has miter and t-track slots. The combo track is available from a lot of places but the woodpecker track mounts by using bolts from underneath the table instead of screws in from the top. Looks nice and mounts tight.
If you are interested in combo track take a look.
Combo Track
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-09-2009, 08:12 PM
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hey Henry.. nice to see a fellow Keystoner onboard.. I"m about 45 east of ya...

have to say I've used up alot of track lately and found that the stuff from Woodpecker is top shelf. Take the time to measure whatcha got and what you're looking at getting. Depth and width...

Lenth is up to you, what I like to do is buy something a bit longer than I need, and have the cutoff's to tinker with......
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-16-2009, 08:40 PM
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I just finished my router table top and used the Rockler standard Miter Track and now I am realizing that the [large miter track in BigJimAK's post] is a better track to use. I have found that most aftermarket miter gauges now have the T on them allowing you to pull the gauge partially out of the track and not falling out. I am now going to change my track out for the miter track with the T-slot. Good Luck
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-09-2011, 08:31 AM
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how did you install the combo track what bits did you use to mortise the table it is so big I am hesitant to install the combo track I just purchased.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-09-2011, 12:03 PM
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Bench Dog Dual Track - Rockler Woodworking Tools
36'' Miter Track - Rockler Woodworking Tools
T-Track and T-Track Accessories
Large Miter Track - Parts & Accessories

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-09-2011, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bebop View Post
how did you install the combo track what bits did you use to mortise the table it is so big I am hesitant to install the combo track I just purchased.
Hi Bob - That is a big, wide track. IMO your table needs to be at the very least, 1" think, depending on the material, 1-1/2 is likely better as the track will take 3/8" of the thickness.
As far as installing it; the simplest way, I think, would be to use a pattern (top bearing) bit. set the track exactly where you want it to go. Fasten 3/4" stock up against it, remove the track and start routing.
MLCS Flush Trim and Shear Angle Flush Trim Router Bits
Item 6509 should do the job for you. The cutting length is less than the template material so you would have good bearing contact and is long enough to reach the depth of cut you need to achieve.
Alternatively, you could use a bushing to guide along the templates but you would need to space the guide strips to account for the bit/bushing offset.
In any case, if the table is edged, you will want to clamp scraps to the edge where the groove exits to avoid tearout of your edging
Good Luck
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-11-2011, 07:13 AM
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Hi John - I'm about to install a mitre track and discovered this thread. I'm wondering (and I'm sure there's a good reason - I just don't know it...yet) why you'd cut the dado for the track using the method described above. Is it because the bit can only move down the channel defined by the edges of the guides? I had figured that I'd attach the edge guide to the router and run the edge guide down the edge of the table. That method does open up the possibility of cutting a less than perfect channel if the edge guide is allowed to move away from the edge of the table.

I've just purchased a Freud pattern bit - so will be able to perform the method described above.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-11-2011, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt1710 View Post
Hi John - I'm about to install a mitre track and discovered this thread. I'm wondering (and I'm sure there's a good reason - I just don't know it...yet) why you'd cut the dado for the track using the method described above. Is it because the bit can only move down the channel defined by the edges of the guides? I had figured that I'd attach the edge guide to the router and run the edge guide down the edge of the table. That method does open up the possibility of cutting a less than perfect channel if the edge guide is allowed to move away from the edge of the table.

I've just purchased a Freud pattern bit - so will be able to perform the method described above.
Hi Matt - That's correct, setting the guides to the exact width of the channel and using the pattern bit insures you get a good fit and is a lot less fiddly than messing with offsets. The bit, however is important in terms of cutting length. It needs to be able to make bearing contact throughout the cut without exceeding the desired depth of cut so you need to consider the guide thickness plus desired depth of cut.

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