Router mounted to a granite TS. - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-08-2009, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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Red face Router mounted to a granite TS.

Hi all!

I recently purchased a PC 893PK kit (my first router) and I'm looking at the new General granite-top cabinet saw. I need to replace the old Craftsman 3/4 HP direct-drive saw I've been struggling with for the last 15 years.

The new saw is at "general.ca/site_general/g_produits/saw/50-240gt.html" (can't post the link- still a newbie!)

I want to build a router table into the saw extension but, because of the granite, it can't be physically attached to the saw table. My idea is to either build an independent router table on casters and attach it to the fence rails to align it to the table-top, or to build the table attached to the fence rails and use cantilever legs down to the saw base to support the outer end of the table. The fence rails are a hefty 1-1/4" X 3/16" angle, but Im concerned that supporting the router on the rails alone might throw the fence out of alignment. The saw itself will be on a mobile base so it can be wheeled to the middle of the garage for workshop use and stored against the wall otherwise (the drawbacks of multi-purpose space!) Any thoughts as to the best way to proceed or problems I might be creating are appreciated.

The second item is to build a router fence that will clamp to and use the existing saw fence. Has anybody done this and are there plans or pics available?

Thirdly, PC provides a router adjustment tool that works through the table top. Has anybody worked with this, and is it a reasonable alternative to a PRL?

I don't want to cheap out, but the new saw and router have put a serious dent in the tool budget, and I need to look for ways to economize without sacrificing the quality of work - I'm prepared to sacrifice a bit of convenience however, until I can afford some of the expensive "nice-to-haves".

Bill
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-09-2009, 02:30 PM
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bassdrum, I was just recently looking into doing this with my Ridgid granite topped table saw. I ended up opting to build a separate router table because of a lack of resources for replacement steel but here is what I would have done if I had gone that route.

In my case, there is a large piece of angle iron across the front of the saw and bolted to the top of that is the steel tube that acts as the front rail for the fence. The angle iron does not extend beyond the body of the saw in the front. In the back are two smaller pieces of angle iron as the back rail for the fence.
What I would have done was to replace the two piece back rail with one single piece so it would have more strength. Then I would replace the angle iron on the front with one that extended the full length of the front fence rail. Then the angle iron becomes a great and sturdy place to mount an extension to the table. I likely would have had to use additional steel from the angle iron to support the table top at the correct height but that would be relatively simple.

Others have done similar with their Ridgid granite top sawas. They also replaced the front fence rail with a one piece tube. It comes as a two piece. But since I would be using the angle iron as my table support rather than the fence rail I did not see a need to replace the fence rail unless I wanted to extend it further. But my work area is small so extending is not my best option. I already have to roll the saw out from the wall every time I need to use it.

If your new saw is like mine the wings mount with a steel bar sliding through a track on the bottom. The track extends all the way across the bottom of the wing so another bar can be placed on the outside to help support any added table there but you would still need support on the outside.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-09-2009, 02:35 PM
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Oh, your question about the PC above table adjuster. I have one and it works pretty well. If you end up making a router table extension to your saw though the router will be pretty exposed and easy to adjust from under the table.

With the PC above table kit it is pretty easy for me to change the bit from above the table as well as make adjustments. I am finding though that after cutting a bunch of MDF the threads of the adjuster on the PC router are getting gummed up and harder to adjust. I will probably have to use a soft bristle brush to clean them.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-11-2009, 07:18 AM Thread Starter
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Default Thanks, Trent

Quote:
Originally Posted by the_nite_owl View Post
bassdrum, I was just recently looking into doing this with my Ridgid granite topped table saw. I ended up opting to build a separate router table because of a lack of resources for replacement steel but here is what I would have done if I had gone that route.

In my case, there is a large piece of angle iron across the front of the saw and bolted to the top of that is the steel tube that acts as the front rail for the fence. The angle iron does not extend beyond the body of the saw in the front. In the back are two smaller pieces of angle iron as the back rail for the fence.
What I would have done was to replace the two piece back rail with one single piece so it would have more strength. Then I would replace the angle iron on the front with one that extended the full length of the front fence rail. Then the angle iron becomes a great and sturdy place to mount an extension to the table. I likely would have had to use additional steel from the angle iron to support the table top at the correct height but that would be relatively simple.

Others have done similar with their Ridgid granite top sawas. They also replaced the front fence rail with a one piece tube. It comes as a two piece. But since I would be using the angle iron as my table support rather than the fence rail I did not see a need to replace the fence rail unless I wanted to extend it further. But my work area is small so extending is not my best option. I already have to roll the saw out from the wall every time I need to use it.

If your new saw is like mine the wings mount with a steel bar sliding through a track on the bottom. The track extends all the way across the bottom of the wing so another bar can be placed on the outside to help support any added table there but you would still need support on the outside.


Thanks greatly for the input Trent. The General saw has a one-piece steel tube fence guide, and the one-piece angle iron rails extend about 2 feet past the table top. The granite wings are smooth on the outside edge as the notches for the T-slot bars stop about 1/2" short, so there is no way to tie the router table to the actual saw top. According to the dealer, that was done on purpose. All the weight and vibration of the router would be carried by the fence rail supports, and I'm concerned it might affect the accuracy of the rip fence on wider cuts. I'll probably go with your solution and build a router table (good practice run!) that fits between the fence rails for storage.

Thanks agsin!

Bill

Over thirty years of rough bush carpentry - lots of rough bush, not much carpentry!
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-11-2009, 09:52 AM
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I would imagine the steel tube is attached to the table with a piece of angle iron as mine is. I could not imagine you putting enough weight on that angle iron to throw your fence alignement off. I would not attach to the tube, I would attach to the angle iron that supports the tube. With the extension butted solidly against the right wing of the table you would really have to abuse the table severely to bend that angle iron front/back or up/down. In fact the extension would make it less likely to accidently bend those rails forward or backward. I do not think there is any real risk for it as an extension.
For myself, I made it as a separate table because obtaining the steel I needed locally would be difficult and I wanted a larger table than I could have as an extension.
Now I have a separate router table that doubles as a work surface for other things when needed such as setting up my chop saw.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-14-2009, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Got the answers!

When I went in to Canadian Woodworker to buy my saw yeaterday, the General rep was there for their mini trade show. He said the angle irons that hold the fence and form the back rail are plenty strong enough for a router table, and if I need extra support for a longer table, I just need to drop a couple of legs off the outboard end.

I'll get an opportunity to put it to the test when I get my saw - General has sold out of them twice already since September and are waiting for their third shipment. All I know is one of them has my name on it!

Bill

Over thirty years of rough bush carpentry - lots of rough bush, not much carpentry!
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