Dumb Question - Router Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-15-2009, 02:07 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 39
 
Default Dumb Question

I just bought a new Incra PRL-V2 router lift and to make things easier I bought the template to rout the top for the lift. Now the Dumb question is, why is the template the same size as the lift plate I thought it would be the proper size to use to route the groove and hole. It seems I could have used the lift plate just as well as the template they sent. I guess what I'm saying is I could have used the lift plate as a template and routed my own hole in a scrap piece of mdf. I sure someone will tell me where I'm going wrong and make me feel as dumb again as I already do.

Thanks, Melvin
Melvin is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-15-2009, 02:28 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
First Name: Tom
Posts: 50
 
Default

And I thought perhaps I finally would get to answer a truely dumb question - but alas, not this time either.
I think you did the right thing in getting the template. You could use the plate itself to end up with a routing template but it takes a few steps to go from an outside template (the lift itself) to an inside template. I have done it and it is well worth my money to get the template considering what they cost.
I think you will have to try again (harder?) to come up with a true dumb question! This one isn't dumb.

Tom Hintz, Publisher
NewWoodworker.com
Tom Hintz is offline  
post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-15-2009, 08:01 AM
Retired Moderator
 
BigJimAK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Jim
Posts: 3,503
     
Default

Melvin,

I went through the same thing a few months ago. The answer is straightforward, but not obvious. I recommend first cutting the center hole (clear through) and then adding the recessed lip for the plate to rest on. A plunge router, hand held, is best for this process. This is far simpler if you are lucky enough to have a router that takes 1-1/2" guides but since more have 1-3/16" guides, my instructions will assume that you do too. To get there, your are going to use a 1" OD guide bushing.

The first question is: How wide (not deep) of a lip do you want to leave for the plate to rest on. If you want a 1/4" lip, you are going to use a 1/2" bit (length to be determined below), since a 1/2" bit in a 1" bushing gives a 1/4" offset.

If you want a 3/8" lip, you will use a 1/4" bit, same as above except for a 3/8" offset.

Insert a 1" guide bushing into your router (no bit) then plunge the router (unplugged) until the collet almost (but not quite, very important) touches the bushing. Set your depth stop here to prevent the two from touching later.

Now we determine the minimum length of the bit, add:

* the thickness of the template (probably 3/4") and
* the thickness of the router table top (for this example, assume 1-1/2")

these add up to 2-1/4". This means that the bit must be (overall) long enough to permit your collet to get a good grip on it (assume 1" but probably about minimum for full safety, you determine). Thus the bit needs to be 3-1/4" overall.

Affix the template to your table where you are going to want the router lift installed with double-stick carpet tape. Attach a scrap of wood under the table, screwed to the table twice outside the cut (to prevent tearout at the end) and twice well inside of where the cutter will cut (to keep the cut piece from binding the bit at the end.

Make the cut in a series of steps. The first one whould be very shallow (perhaps 1/8" or so). Then repeat the cuts, each a little deeper until you get nearly through. Try to judge the last cut to be shallow to minimize tearout. Each cut depth should not exceed the diameter of the bit.

After the final cut, turn off the router and remove the scrap, leaving you with a clean through hole in your table. Remove the bit and guide. Next we cut the lip.

For this, you are going to need a cutter that is short enough that, with a bearing (same diameter as the bit) attached on top, both the bearing and the bit depth are less than or equal to the *thickness* of your template. I used a 1/4" shank, 1/2" diameter, 1/2" cutter depth hinge mortising bit (LeeValley part #16J08.08) with a 1/4" ID, 1/2" OD, 3/16" high bearing (Lee Valley #16J95.06) and a lock ring (Lee Valley 16J96.04). The plunge depth stop should be set to leave the lip a little shallow (not deep enough) so you can "sneak up on it"). Lower the bit so the bearing can run against the template, turn on the router and again make the first cut shallow, and sneak up on the depth. If you get a bit too deep, a strip of tape can be used as a shim to hold the plate flush with the table.

I've provided Lee Valley part numbers so you can look up pictures of the lip-making parts online in case my description is not clear; you can surely spend less elsewhere.

If your router takes 1-1/2" bushings, a 1/2" bit would give you a 1/2" lip with a 1-1/2" OD guide. In my case the router and lift were heavy and the plate was sized to support 1/2", so that's what I used.

I remember my nervousness in preparing to cut though my newly-constructed table top but, with the template and guide any error you make will be to cut into the waste and you can easily come back and "clean up" the slip. The same is true with the bearing, as long as you are careful to make sure it is lowered enough to press against the template as the bit aproaches.

There are undoubtedly other (and perhaps easier) ways to get there, but this worked for me.

I hope this helps!

Check out that new high-tech cordless router.. wireless and no recharging required!!
BigJimAK is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-15-2009, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 39
 
Default

Hello Jim, Thanks for taking the time to offer such a detailed answer, it does help and the parts I need are on their way. I just wonder why the don't sent a template that is the proper size for cutting out the whole, the rabbit would be pretty easy after that. I would probably be willing to pay for 2 templats, one for the hole and one for the lip. Anyway thanks again, it is appreciated. cya Mel
Melvin is offline  
post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-15-2009, 02:02 PM
Retired Moderator
 
Hamlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Country: United States
First Name: Ken
Posts: 3,437
 
Send a message via MSN to Hamlin
Default

Hi Melvin

To clear something up, there is no such thing as a stupid or dumb question. The only one that is, is the one that's NOT asked. This is what this forum is for, to help others and share ideas and projects, etc.

Ken

***Please fill in your profile, at least your location. As this will help us help you better.***

"A VETERAN"
"Whether active duty, retired, national guard or reserve - is someone who, at one point in their life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America", for an amount of "up to and including my life". That is HONOR, and there are way too many people in this country who no longer understand it." -Author Unknown

Hamlin is offline  
post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-15-2009, 08:19 PM
Retired Moderator
 
BigJimAK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Jim
Posts: 3,503
     
Default

Melvin,

The use of offsets can be very helpful in routing, so using a single template was (for me) a good learning experience. I'd have appreciated it (and learned with less of my own time) it they'd included a one-page list of instructions instead of just a piece of MDF with a hole in it.

If nothing else, the instructions would have reinforced the importance for me to read the instructions. For those people that see this as obvious, they could have done like I'd have tried to do.. and ignored them!

Check out that new high-tech cordless router.. wireless and no recharging required!!
BigJimAK is offline  
post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-16-2009, 02:57 PM
Registered User
 
Ghidrah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Country: United States
First Name: Ronald
Posts: 1,466
 
Default

Like with most things, they, (manufacturers/wholesalers) assume you have experience with table routing and already know what to do with the stuff they send.

In general language comprehension is arbitrary, there're too many options to say the same thing and for me anyway too many to know. Terms and phrases used in the NE may not fly in the SW.

Pictures with nomenclature highlighting the procedure takes most of the guess work out. I may not know the term used for the item they want me to deal with but a pic showing it, where and how it goes flattens the whoops on the track.

Never bite the hand that looks dirty!
The more you know the more you're worth
Ghidrah is offline  
post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-16-2009, 04:12 PM
Retired Moderator
 
BigJimAK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Jim
Posts: 3,503
     
Default

Ronald.. like how the thing-a-ma-bob hooks into the doo-hickey?

Check out that new high-tech cordless router.. wireless and no recharging required!!
BigJimAK is offline  
post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-16-2009, 10:13 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 19
 
Default

1. Use double stick tape and place the template where you're installing the router.

2. Cut some 3/4" strips of MDF and stick those on the inside of the template

3. Cut the opening with a bottom bearing bit.

4. Remove the 3/4" strips and use a mortise bit to cut your recessed opening for your router.

Have fun.
bigdogmedia66 is offline  
post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-16-2009, 11:31 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 39
 
Default

Now you'r tolking my language, Thanks, Melvin
Melvin is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Table Fence Question Bob N Table-mounted Routing 15 11-19-2009 06:33 AM
DC Question angus Lobby 3 03-31-2008 08:29 PM
Dumb Question Caseyjones906 General Routing 2 08-29-2006 02:57 PM
making a clear subbase- dumb question rprice54 General Routing 4 01-16-2006 05:22 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome