King router to Ryobi table? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-22-2009, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
 
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Default King router to Ryobi table?

Hello. I am Nick from Quebec city and have recently purchased a King model 8367 Router hoping I might be able to mount it to a Ryobi router table (A25RTO2). It would seem that there are no compatible holes for the King router on the Ryobi universal mounting plate. Has anyone here come up against this problem and found a goo and simple solution that doesn't call for a machine shop?
Thanks, Nick
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-22-2009, 03:18 PM
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Welcome to the forum Nick!
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-22-2009, 04:44 PM
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You will probably have to center, and drill out new holes to mount. sorry, it isn't to hard to remove the base from the router and center it on the mounting plate. Welcome to the forum, and i am sure others will help you with that table. I am not familiar with it.

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-23-2009, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thank you Bob and Dutchman. I've still been planning out the geometry of making my own. I think I'll have to find a piece of 3/8 plastic though. The mounting screws on the King router seem a bit small and might tear through plywood.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-24-2009, 02:01 AM
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Welcome to the forums Nick.




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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-25-2009, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
 
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Having made a adaptor/bottom plate to fir between the Ryobi table and the King router I must say I wouldn't suggest to anyone to but a King router for the purpose of table routing. It really hasn't been designed with this in mind. Also, with 1/4 inch bits fitted, it doesn't seem to have a plunge depth suitable for using the full cutting surface of the bit.
Thanks to all for your help,
Nick
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-25-2009, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thank you Doctor Dave.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-08-2009, 01:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bkanick View Post
Having made a adaptor/bottom plate to fir between the Ryobi table and the King router I must say I wouldn't suggest to anyone to but a King router for the purpose of table routing. It really hasn't been designed with this in mind. Also, with 1/4 inch bits fitted, it doesn't seem to have a plunge depth suitable for using the full cutting surface of the bit.
Nick
Nick:
It was trying to find info on this very machine that brought me to this forum. The King is so attractively priced and my other King tools (cordless drill, biscuit cutter, compound mitre saw, air compressor) have all served me well.

I thought I had found an alternative to the pricier "brand name" 3 1/4hp routers but you have stopped me in my tracks.
I am a casual hobbiest and don't really need a tool that will withstand heavy shop use. But I do want to be able to use a 3 1/2" panel raising bit and that, I am told, requires a 3 hp machine.

What is it that makes you unhappy about using the King in a table?
If it is primarily that the base plate screws holes are too small, I could get an aluminum table plate or use a clamp system to mount the router. Also the problem with 1/4" bits will not likely affect me.

I would like to hear more from you about your experience with the King in a table before I make a mistake. I don't know much about routers.
Thanks
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-08-2009, 02:32 AM
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Terry,

I have not worked with either but, to the extent there is a problem it is highly probable the problem is in mating the router to a router table designed for one specific series of router, not in mounting the King to a table.

Most routers have a removeable plate on the bottom, typically some kind of plastic about 1/8"-1/4" thick, held on with screws. That plate can be removed and a attached to a universal mounting plate. That plate is designed to set into a universal router table. The tables themselves can be inexpensively made or (not so inexpensively) purchased.

When I say "universal plate" I'm not talking about one with swiss-cheese-like holes for all routers but typically one with only the center hole for the bit. They provide instructions and you drill the holes, using the existing plate as a template.

The same technique (using the plate as a drilling template) could theoretically be used with specialty tables like the Ryobi although most of them use cast aluminum for the top with ribs for structural strength that would require milling (assuming the table was strong enough after the material was removed).

Others here will likely expound on what I've said or offer other ideas. Read what they have to say; some of them may have an even simpler solution for you. Also, we have a fair number of Canadians in the forum that have probably used King routers and can speak to the advantages and disadvantages of them. Also it is likely that the King uses the same bolt pattern as some other router and hopefully someone can speak to this.

Also, I expect some of them will speak as to their experience with 3-1/2" raised panel bits in smaller routers. Also be aware that the same proviles are available in vertical bits (panel cut vertical against the fence during the cut) with very good results. I'll leave that discussion to others that have used those bits, for I have not.

I hope this helps a little bit.

Check out that new high-tech cordless router.. wireless and no recharging required!!

Last edited by BigJimAK; 12-08-2009 at 02:34 AM.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-08-2009, 08:05 AM
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Terry, I really don't know what the attraction of a 3 1/2" horizontal panel raising bit is when all profiles are available in the much cheaper and safer vertical bits. As experienced as I am, I still cringe at the thought of such a mass of steel spinning in front of me.
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