Sigh... all that work for nothing... - Router Forums
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 11:53 PM Thread Starter
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Default Sigh... all that work for nothing...

So I between going out and buying the wood and working on the jig I spent most of yesterday building a box joint jig. It's a 1/4" jig and I did the set up to test it with hardboard.

I finally got it adjusted where it made a real nice set of joints. The hardboard would chip out badly or the surface layer would de-laminate. I figured that it was just the board.

So I ripped the 1/4" poplar down to the size I needed for the candle stands I was planning on building. I grabbed a couple scraps so I could make sure that the setup that I came up with using the hardboard would work. It did not... The poplar was apparently more brittle than the hard board. Every time I tried to cut a pin it would break lose and go flying across the room. (or at least 3 or 4 feet.)

I gave up and moved on to the next project as I wanted the candle holders as a Christmas present.

Any ideas what I need to do to make it work with this wood?

Tim

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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 11:58 PM
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Hi Tim,
The Rockler box joint jig is well worth the money IMHO.
It could use some improvements but it works well and accurately.
Would be $80 well spent if you are into box making.

It sounds like your bit is dull to me though honestly.
Try cleaning it with simple green or orange clean. If it still does it after cleaning replace the bit.
You can also use a backer board and a sacrificial board up front of the work piece while cutting your joints to prevent tear out and "fly away's ".

Last edited by Duane867; 12-21-2009 at 12:01 AM.
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 12:24 AM
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Hi Tim

You can try this, don't back out of the pass, if the jig is just off a little bit the router bit will hang up on it if you back out and snap the part free...

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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 08:21 AM
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do you have any pictures of your set up? might help us figure out whats wrong
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Hi Tim

You can try this, don't back out of the pass, if the jig is just off a little bit the router bit will hang up on it if you back out and snap the part free...

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+1 on don't run backwards across the jig. Lift off the workpiece and backer board after the pass.

Also, if you can get one, a spiral bit seems to do a better job with these jigs. That said, I've used a straight cutter but only on larger fingers. To minimize chipping on the piece I wrapped the cutting area in blue tape. Seemed to help.
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 10:30 AM
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There is a cheap and easy jig that Norm makes for box joints. It is done on the table saw. Basically a vertical board, mounted to a miter gauge, with two rectangular dowels and a dado in the vertical board.

Very easy to make and works great and does not cost a thing.

I suggest a board in front and in back of your work to reduce the change of tear out while cutting.


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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 04:51 PM
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I make all my box joints on the TS and never had that problem.

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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 04:57 PM
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Hi Ron

I Can't wait till you try the OP box joints jigs out, it will blow your mind how easy and fast you can make them.. and they always come out just right every time...unlike the table saw way, been there done that.. or should I say the dado saw king way (Norm A. way)

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I make all my box joints on the TS and never had that problem.



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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 05:05 PM
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I crank out box joints on the TS without a hitch.. nice clean joints...

no need for an OP
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 06:01 PM
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+1 on the oak park box joint jigs! they work time after time and are so simple to use.

i might add that they are priced very reasonably.

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