Installing New Table Insert - Router Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-23-2009, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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Default Installing New Table Insert

I am building a new top for my router table. The new insert has 3/4-inch radius corners. What is the best way to achieve those rounded corners in the table top - a 1 1/2-inch forstner bit or a 1 1/2-inch hole saw?

The top is 3/4-inch plywood with plastic laminate on both sides.

Thanks for any feedback.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-23-2009, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick7938 View Post
I am building a new top for my router table. The new insert has 3/4-inch radius corners. What is the best way to achieve those rounded corners in the table top - a 1 1/2-inch forstner bit or a 1 1/2-inch hole saw?
Thanks for any feedback.
I just installed one today and faced the same dilemma. However I used a 3/4" straight bit to rout the ledge for the plate. The radius of that bit was close enough that just the slightest work with a small chisel was sufficient to allow the plate to seat.

Terry Danks
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-23-2009, 08:12 PM
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I don't want to hijack Rick's post dealing with the plate corners but I have another concern about plate installation.
My phenolic plate came with set screws and magnetic buttons to level it. I get the set screws all right but the buttons perplex me. I will routinely be lifting the router and plate from the table to change bits. It seems to me these magnets will be a nuisance. They are strong little devils too! I feel no matter how snugly I insert them into the ledge, they will pull loose and come out every time I change bits, leading to bad language on my part. There is no provision to screw them down . . . you just have to drill a hole that will hold them very sungly. Seems impractical to me.

What have other folks done with these little button magnets?

Terry Danks
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-23-2009, 08:34 PM
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Hi Guys

If you use the link below ( how to install the plate, in GREEN) the router will do it all for you,after all that's why you have a router to do that type of job in the shop

The magnets are not needed the norm if you did the install right but if you didn't well you need them to get it right.. the weight of the router will keep the plate in just right.

I use the little magnets on boxes for the latchs, two small holes,press them into the holes and you have a nice clean latch that's hard to see also work great on a small cabinet doors..they must stick up just a little bit from the wood.. so don't drill the holes to deep.
You may say how do I line up the holes, just cut off a small brad nail push it into place put the lid down and you have two small points marks to drill the holes for the magnets..
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-23-2009, 09:08 PM
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Terry, when we made the top for my table we countersunk the magnets. If you make the hole snug enough, the magnets will stay. Otherwise, a little epoxy will do the trick. And yes, they are indeed strong.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-23-2009, 11:25 PM
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I'm sure epoxy would hold them in. I didn't use mine for the plate and put them in a sort of junk drawer - when I went in there the other day, they had everything attached to them - wow they are strong !
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-24-2009, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick7938 View Post
I am building a new top for my router table. The new insert has 3/4-inch radius corners. What is the best way to achieve those rounded corners in the table top - a 1 1/2-inch forstner bit or a 1 1/2-inch hole saw?

The top is 3/4-inch plywood with plastic laminate on both sides.

Thanks for any feedback.
I cut my corners with a hole saw then a jigsaw to cut out the middle and my router with a clamped down guide to rout the ledge out. The ends did not come out wonderful but definitely serviceable. If I were to do it again I would use the router plate to make myself a cutout template then use the template to guide the router cutting out the plate recess corners and all for a perfect fit. I just did not have enough experience to do it then or a set of guide bushings to offset the bit.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-24-2009, 12:21 PM
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Hi Trent

Just one more way without the need for the guides

Tips_20
Tips_18


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I cut my corners with a hole saw then a jigsaw to cut out the middle and my router with a clamped down guide to rout the ledge out. The ends did not come out wonderful but definitely serviceable. If I were to do it again I would use the router plate to make myself a cutout template then use the template to guide the router cutting out the plate recess corners and all for a perfect fit. I just did not have enough experience to do it then or a set of guide bushings to offset the bit.



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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-24-2009, 12:37 PM
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I essentially did what is shown in tip 18 except that my WoodPecker plate had rounded corners that I could not match with any of the bits I had so I first drilled out the corners with a hole saw then cut the rest of the hole and ledges. I used a drum sander attachment in my drill to fine tune the corner holes and though they are not perfect the plate fits well enough and it was a great first effort.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-24-2009, 02:53 PM
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Default Copying radius

Bob - I think the broader question is what bit/bushing combination is required to faithfully copy a radius. Frankly, I'm about as lost as a $2 hunting dog on this one myself.
I am thinking that a female template could be made with almost any size bushing as long as the bit has a radius equal to or less than the radius being copied. To copy that template to the workpiece you would need a bushing equal to or smaller than the radius of the template and a corresponding bit that would provide the necessary offset.
Does this sound anywhere near right??
Thanks

John Schaben

The problem with experience is I usually get it immediately after I need it.
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