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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-01-2010, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Default Cutting moldings with freud casing bits

I picked up a Freud casing bit and noticed immediately I was going to run into difficulties. When running stock on the table the bulk of the material is being removed from the bottom of the molding making it very unstable. I have made a few different axillary fence setups with mixed results. I have a few more ideas, but figure I'll toss the question out instead of wasting time and materials.

Any proven solutions would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-01-2010, 11:59 AM
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Hi Dave

This is true with most molding bits, this is what I do,, use a little bit wider stock than what you want to end up with..the extra stock will give a edge that will give the stock a place to keep it running true, it's no big deal to just rip off the edge on the saw after the router has the made the molding.

something like below


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Originally Posted by dper1176 View Post
I picked up a Freud casing bit and noticed immediately I was going to run into difficulties. When running stock on the table the bulk of the material is being removed from the bottom of the molding making it very unstable. I have made a few different axillary fence setups with mixed results. I have a few more ideas, but figure I'll toss the question out instead of wasting time and materials.

Any proven solutions would be greatly appreciated.


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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-01-2010, 06:11 PM
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+1 on BJ's recommendation on using wider stock. I needed to create some 1-1/2" x 2-1/4" pieces of molding with a 3/4" x 1-1/2" section dado-ed from some 8' pieces of 1-1/2" thick maple. To do so I cut an 8" wide piece square and dado-ed each side, then ripped them off the main stock, making 2 pieces at once. It allowed me to make 2 cuts with each bit depth setting, speeding the process, and leaving 5" of stock on the table. Had I needed the material, I could have gotten another piece (maybe 2, with proper push blocks, an assistant and enough care) while still being stable.

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-02-2010, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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I have tried this and didn't love the outcome. I am also trying to minimize waste since I am using mahogany and other stupidly expensive woods.

My latest idea, let me try to explain what I am thinking.

I am going to make an auxillary fence with an extension at the bottom that will support the area that has been milled. My hope is to be able to put feather boards high and low on the piece. Using this method I also believe I can have my pieces ripped down close to final width when milling. Maybe this is optimistic, let me know.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-02-2010, 09:28 PM
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Dave... to each his own but I would not take that approach if (since) there is a safer alternative. That casing bit is one big ultra-fast flesh-eater, should it come in contact with your skin. One slip and it's a serious aw-sh*t!

By buying (or gluing up) wider pieces, milling them and then ripping the trim off on your TS, an otherwise dangerous process becomes safe. If you have a lot of trim to make and are concerned about the waste then, after you cut the first part down as small as is safe, take the ripped edge and glue it to another board and continue. Then, when you are done you have at most one small piece of scrap.

Although wood can be mighty expensive, I believe safety must come first.. I bought some Hawaiian Koa for $16/bd ft but even if it was $50/bd ft, my recommendation would be the same.

The ultimate question is "What would it take for you to bet your fingers?" Consider it like being at Vegas.. is the probability and cost of failure low enough for you? In the last year we've had several instances of members being cut. I'd hate for you to join the rank.

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