Router insert plate opening size - Router Forums
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-02-2010, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Default Router insert plate opening size

I'm putting together a new router table and am concerned with the insert opening.
I have a Rockler plate which I kept from my "old" table and decided to follow the idea (well,,,,,almost ) in the PW link where Bob Lang shows how to install a plate.
I decided to use a 3/4" mortise bit with a 3/4 bearing installed on the shank for following the template. Then, with a 1 3/8" O.D. bushing and a 3/8" straight bit, cut the opening leaving a 1/2" shoulder all around for the plate to sit in.
Looks great!! But, the plate now has somewhere around 1/32" space all around it. Looks good but, the plate is sloppy in the recess.
Good for me for trying this in a piece of scrap before going to my new table top.
Now, what did I do wrong, or, what should I have done different??
I'm not going to cut the new top until I get the right fit in scrap or know how to make it right after the fact.

Do as you always do,,, Get what you always get
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-02-2010, 05:42 PM
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HI Roger

In the video from Bob L. he tells you what you must use to get it to come out just right..

1/4" bit and a 3/4" guide then a rabbit bit but it's not a real big deal to fix what you have now, put out your heat gun/hair dryer ,cut one puce of laminate to go all the way around inside the hole (cut it a bit long) heat it up and push it in the hole,let it cool down then glue it in place and use your trim router bit to get it to fit right on the top edge then put the laminate on the top..
You can use the plate to get it in the hole just right and to hold the laminate in place..

======

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Originally Posted by rcp612 View Post
I'm putting together a new router table and am concerned with the insert opening.
I have a Rockler plate which I kept from my "old" table and decided to follow the idea (well,,,,,almost ) in the PW link where Bob Lang shows how to install a plate.
I decided to use a 3/4" mortise bit with a 3/4 bearing installed on the shank for following the template. Then, with a 1 3/8" O.D. bushing and a 3/8" straight bit, cut the opening leaving a 1/2" shoulder all around for the plate to sit in.
Looks great!! But, the plate now has somewhere around 1/32" space all around it. Looks good but, the plate is sloppy in the recess.
Good for me for trying this in a piece of scrap before going to my new table top.
Now, what did I do wrong, or, what should I have done different??
I'm not going to cut the new top until I get the right fit in scrap or know how to make it right after the fact.



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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-03-2010, 03:18 AM
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Wrap a few turns of tape around your bush to give you the correct offset, and cut again for real.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-03-2010, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcp612 View Post
I'm putting together a new router table and am concerned with the insert opening.
I have a Rockler plate which I kept from my "old" table and decided to follow the idea (well,,,,,almost ) in the PW link where Bob Lang shows how to install a plate.
I decided to use a 3/4" mortise bit with a 3/4 bearing installed on the shank for following the template. Then, with a 1 3/8" O.D. bushing and a 3/8" straight bit, cut the opening leaving a 1/2" shoulder all around for the plate to sit in.
Looks great!! But, the plate now has somewhere around 1/32" space all around it. Looks good but, the plate is sloppy in the recess.
Good for me for trying this in a piece of scrap before going to my new table top.
Now, what did I do wrong, or, what should I have done different??
I'm not going to cut the new top until I get the right fit in scrap or know how to make it right after the fact.
Hi Roger, Only thing I can think of is to double check and make sure the template is exactly right and put a caliper on your mortise bit and bearing.

John Schaben

The problem with experience is I usually get it immediately after I need it.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-03-2010, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jschaben View Post
Hi Roger, Only thing I can think of is to double check and make sure the template is exactly right and put a caliper on your mortise bit and bearing.

Good point but, I already checked the bearing diameter, the bit diameter, and,,, even checked to be sure the sides of the template were square. (3/4" MDF)
The plate actually had to be pulled out of the template making me think that my routed ledge would be just as tight.
The other posts suggesting tape on the bushing, or following Bob Langs sizes won't work in this scenario. I'm wanting to route the ledge for the plate 1st then do the cut out inside. This way, in my mind, I can match the corner radius of the plate which I can't see happening with a rabbiting bit, and make all my cuts referenced from the template, which fit the plate perfectly.
I'm going to try other ways today unless I run out of scrap.

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-03-2010, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by rcp612 View Post
I'm wanting to route the ledge for the plate 1st then do the cut out inside. This way, in my mind, I can match the corner radius of the plate which I can't see happening with a rabbiting bit, and make all my cuts referenced from the template, which fit the plate perfectly.
I'm going to try other ways today unless I run out of scrap.
I kinda guessed that that is what you were up to. Can't figure why the template is a tight fit and a flush cut is larger.
What radius do you have on the plate?

John Schaben

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-03-2010, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jschaben View Post
I kinda guessed that that is what you were up to. Can't figure why the template is a tight fit and a flush cut is larger.
What radius do you have on the plate?
I have checked over and over and IMO the actual radius is either 5/16" or metric.
The 3/8" radius (3/4" bit) is so close that I was just going to go with that, assuming the sides and ends would offer the support needed to keep the plate centered. And, the small gap in the corners would be a great place to store dust!!!

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-03-2010, 10:07 AM
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That is why I always cut a template in 1/2-inch MDF, get the fit just right, and use a template bit. There is just too much room for error using other methods. It may work for some, but it has never worked perfectly for me like the template has.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-03-2010, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
HI Roger

In the video from Bob L. he tells you what you must use to get it to come out just right..

1/4" bit and a 3/4" guide then a rabbit bit but it's not a real big deal to fix what you have now, put out your heat gun/hair dryer ,cut one puce of laminate to go all the way around inside the hole (cut it a bit long) heat it up and push it in the hole,let it cool down then glue it in place and use your trim router bit to get it to fit right on the top edge then put the laminate on the top..
You can use the plate to get it in the hole just right and to hold the laminate in place..

======
I just shimmed mine ( and it works great ) , but thats a dang good idea.
I may give that a try.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-03-2010, 12:04 PM
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I made a template by "boxing" the plate with 4 pieces of ply, double sided taped to the blank template, then using the correct bits to give me a good (exact fit).
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