Beading on an outside radius (face) - Router Forums
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
 
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Default Beading on an outside radius (face)

Hi, I'm David, and I'm learning to route This is my first post after reading many tips and tricks on the forum. I'm at a point in the design of a project that I need some professional guidance. I've been searching high and low and haven't found quite the solution so I apologize if I've missed the answer in a previous post.

I'd like to replace our front screen door of the house. It's rotted out in a bad way so I'm thinking rebuild the wood, have the iron pieces sandblasted and recoated, and clean up the hardware a bit. I've picked up some cypress based on what I think my cuts will need to be and I'm doing the layout on paper to make sure I don't jack this thing up. Seemed simple enough but the routing of a bead detail has me concerned. Currently it's got a cheap piece of half round trim nailed to the face along the inside edge. I am thinking instead I'd like to route a bead along the outside edge. Perhaps do the same inside treatment but instead of nailing to the face do it with thicker stock and attach to the inside edge. I'm not sure on that one yet. So, two questions really:

1) Using my table will be simple enough to handle the straight edges... but how does a guy go about handling the radius? It's not the outside edge, but the face that I'm trying to do. I have an edge beading bit (whiteside 3258) but can't quite picture me running the radius pieces along the fence without something going horribly arry.

2) If a guy did want to add that added bump to the inside edge, would he bead straight stock and rip off the bid using a table saw and steam it to get the radius? If so, will a 1/2" bead really bend to fit that shape? I haven't used this bit so I can go to a smaller bead if necessary but would like to keep the two details the same size as I only had wanted to purchase one bead bit

I'm trying to attach a couple of photos to help create a visual. Thanks in advance for the advice! I love the solutions you guys whip up!

david
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File Type: pdf profile Detail.pdf (13.2 KB, 139 views)
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 03:08 PM
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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the quick message, Bob. I think I may have access to a trim router so great suggestion! I also have a smaller multi-base Dewalt that has really collected dust after setting up my cabinet and Portar Cable. I'll check to see if it has a guide. I'm guessing I could cut some scrap to clamp all together to give a larger surface to ride against. If I'm picturing this correctly I'll have to ride the outside edge as I bead the face. Do you anticipate any challenges with a 1/2" bead? Wondering if I need to be on a smaller bead to successfully hit that radius... although, it's a large radius and not a small circle.
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 04:10 PM
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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lay3r3 View Post
Hi, I'm David, and I'm learning to route This is my first post after reading many tips and tricks on the forum. I'm at a point in the design of a project that I need some professional guidance. I've been searching high and low and haven't found quite the solution so I apologize if I've missed the answer in a previous post.

I'd like to replace our front screen door of the house. It's rotted out in a bad way so I'm thinking rebuild the wood, have the iron pieces sandblasted and recoated, and clean up the hardware a bit. I've picked up some cypress based on what I think my cuts will need to be and I'm doing the layout on paper to make sure I don't jack this thing up. Seemed simple enough but the routing of a bead detail has me concerned. Currently it's got a cheap piece of half round trim nailed to the face along the inside edge. I am thinking instead I'd like to route a bead along the outside edge. Perhaps do the same inside treatment but instead of nailing to the face do it with thicker stock and attach to the inside edge. I'm not sure on that one yet. So, two questions really:

1) Using my table will be simple enough to handle the straight edges... but how does a guy go about handling the radius? It's not the outside edge, but the face that I'm trying to do. I have an edge beading bit (whiteside 3258) but can't quite picture me running the radius pieces along the fence without something going horribly arry.

2) If a guy did want to add that added bump to the inside edge, would he bead straight stock and rip off the bid using a table saw and steam it to get the radius? If so, will a 1/2" bead really bend to fit that shape? I haven't used this bit so I can go to a smaller bead if necessary but would like to keep the two details the same size as I only had wanted to purchase one bead bit

I'm trying to attach a couple of photos to help create a visual. Thanks in advance for the advice! I love the solutions you guys whip up!

david
David
This is a two cutter job if you are to use the trimmer and that is the way I would attempt it.
A none bearing Beading Bit (Fine Point) for the inside shape of the bead and a Rounding over bit with a bearing for the outside curve. IMHO it is not possible to be achieved with a Bull nose Radius Bit.

Care should be take to ensure the router is positioned correctly especially when going round the inside curve to ensure the cut is made the same distance in from the edge.

Pic below is a beading cutter I could not find pic of the fine point. Note; it can also be used for the outside curve when using the trimmer with the roller.
Tom
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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 06:54 PM
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Hi David,

MLCS sells a point cutting roundover bit that will give you a little different profile than you wanted but it would work well using the method that Tom described for what you are trying to do.

MLCS groove forming router bits

I used one a while back to do a bunch of stopped flutes in door and window casings and MLCS was the only place I could find that sold the 1/4" radius point cutting roundover with a 1/2" shank ( part #8732 ) and I was able to route several hundred feet of casings with the same bit.
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 07:27 PM
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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-15-2010, 09:00 AM
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Hi Greg

That would work well with the new Flute Jig, just for that type of job, no big deal for curves..

=========
Bob,

That's a Great idea

but I think he'll need to drop the bearing down with some type of spacer in order to get the bead at the edge of the part.

Greg
-------------------------------

Last edited by gregW; 01-15-2010 at 09:05 AM.
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-15-2010, 11:47 AM
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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-15-2010, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Hi Greg

Thanks, right on about the washers or spacer,that's why it's best to use a flat head screw to fit into the bearing, can be used on 3/8" to 1 1/4" thick stock the norm I will say the washers work the best, quick way to set it up, I used the smaller bearings off some old router bits >> they are 5/16" or 8mm ID the norm..just right for the tee nuts to fit in or washers..

=========
It looks like eagle also sells a fluting jig that works on curves.

http://www.routerforums.com/vendor-a...dge-guide.html

their version uses 2 bearings on the outside of the arc and one bearing on the inside of the arc.
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