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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-19-2010, 02:21 AM Thread Starter
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Default Tenon making

I'm making flat panel doors for a 22 inch wide closet.
I'm using a Tongue and Groove bit set
I don't have any problems making the groove in the Stiles.
What I'm having trouble with is making the tongue (Tenon)
on the each end of the rail.
Rail
wide= 2-1/2"
long= 6"
thick= 3/4
tenon= 1/2"
Is there Jig I can make or buy that I could hold the work piece
and scrap wood and be able to move them across the bit smoothly.
Phillip
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-19-2010, 01:44 PM
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Hi Ho Philip: One simple solution is to just use a backer board about 6 or 8 inches square. You can put a handle on it if you want to. This holds your workpiece square to the fence and provides backup for chipout. You can use MDF, plywood, or the same material you are routing.

Good luck, Dirk
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-19-2010, 03:23 PM
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You can buy one from below

MLCS Safety Accessories


=======

Quote:
Originally Posted by phillipd11 View Post
I'm making flat panel doors for a 22 inch wide closet.
I'm using a Tongue and Groove bit set
I don't have any problems making the groove in the Stiles.
What I'm having trouble with is making the tongue (Tenon)
on the each end of the rail.
Rail
wide= 2-1/2"
long= 6"
thick= 3/4
tenon= 1/2"
Is there Jig I can make or buy that I could hold the work piece
and scrap wood and be able to move them across the bit smoothly.
Phillip



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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-19-2010, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Dirko
One other question; Can I clamp the work piece and backer board together.
Thanks
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-19-2010, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Bobj3
I looked at the MLCS coping jigs. It appears to me that the coping cut is not the same as a tongue and groove. If I usd a coping jig it appears to me that It would cut into the sled. I'm new so I still trying to figure out a lot of thiing.
Thanks
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-19-2010, 04:09 PM
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Hi

It will some times that's why they sale the replacement backer blocks as well ...BUT I will say you can make your own backer blocks out of MDF for each type of profile you have..or want to use the sled for, quick way to make your own setup blocks..

=======


Quote:
Originally Posted by phillipd11 View Post
Thanks Bobj3
I looked at the MLCS coping jigs. It appears to me that the coping cut is not the same as a tongue and groove. If I usd a coping jig it appears to me that It would cut into the sled. I'm new so I still trying to figure out a lot of thiing.
Thanks



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

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http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-19-2010, 05:10 PM
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Default Make Your Own Rail Coping Jig

You can make your own jig for a lot less. The below site has a good design.

Tenon making-dsc01143.jpg

Tenon making-top.png
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-19-2010, 08:35 PM
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Here's just two more

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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-20-2010, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phillipd11 View Post
I'm making flat panel doors for a 22 inch wide closet.
I'm using a Tongue and Groove bit set

thick= 3/4
tenon= 1/2"
Phillip
Phillip,

I'm probably misunderstanding what you're saying here but is it 1/2" tenons for edge joining 3/4" stock? To me, that seems pretty thick since that only leaves 1/8" side wall for each side of the mortises (and that assumes the mortise is perfectly centered). Perhaps others will comment but I've always been told that a tenon that's ~1/2 of the thickness is the norm, to leave reasonably thick side walls.

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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-20-2010, 10:06 PM
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Hi Jim

That's common, it's like putting in two tenons 1/4" wide on/in a 3/4" wide board.

see video on the FMT
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...er=tenon%20jig

===

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJimAK View Post
Phillip,

I'm probably misunderstanding what you're saying here but is it 1/2" tenons for edge joining 3/4" stock? To me, that seems pretty thick since that only leaves 1/8" side wall for each side of the mortises (and that assumes the mortise is perfectly centered). Perhaps others will comment but I've always been told that a tenon that's ~1/2 of the thickness is the norm, to leave reasonably thick side walls.



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http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

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Last edited by bobj3; 01-20-2010 at 11:09 PM.
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