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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-21-2010, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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Default Help with Jointing on RT

Was hoping to get some help and advice here. I am trying some jointing on my shop built RT. My fence is MDF and is square with the table. I was running some stock through making it all nice and pretty, but when I got done the stock is now narrower on one end. The stock I was using started out tapered, but I figured that running it down the bit would make it square. But no. So my question is, how do I make an irregular piece of stock square. I know I can use my TS, but some of the stuff I'm trying is to small for me to safetly use it. Do I need to make a jig? If one side of the stock is flat can I just make a front fence to use as a reference guide? BTW my fence is a solid fence with shim on the out feed side to act as a jointer. Hope my question is not to confusing, thanks for the replies.

Jake

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-21-2010, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Soapdish View Post
Was hoping to get some help and advice here. I am trying some jointing on my shop built RT. My fence is MDF and is square with the table. I was running some stock through making it all nice and pretty, but when I got done the stock is now narrower on one end. The stock I was using started out tapered, but I figured that running it down the bit would make it square. But no. So my question is, how do I make an irregular piece of stock square. I know I can use my TS, but some of the stuff I'm trying is to small for me to safetly use it. Do I need to make a jig? If one side of the stock is flat can I just make a front fence to use as a reference guide? BTW my fence is a solid fence with shim on the out feed side to act as a jointer. Hope my question is not to confusing, thanks for the replies.

Jake
Hi Jake:

Nope, not confusing. I think just about everyone has run into this. The problem you've got is you're referencing the cutting side when you're attempting to joint the edge. Any discrepancies in the reference surface will magnify when you attempt the cut. The best alternative is to use your table saw with push sticks and feather boards. Even with a jointer, I'll straighten one edge and always use the table saw to make the other surface parallel. Once the sides are parallel, I'll use use a sander or planer to dimension.

Sorry, no magic bullet from my angle. Maybe some of the other fellows/gals will have suggestions.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-21-2010, 07:48 PM
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I did the same thing a couple of days ago and contemplated the problem ever since. If one did not have a table saw but a spiffy router table with a miter track parallel to the fence, could one not reference one side to the miter track while the other side running along the fence would be cut to parallel?
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-21-2010, 07:59 PM
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Hi Jake

If it started out tapered it will end up tapered, you can do it on the router table just like you do it on the table saw but it's tricky, it's called a trap stock setup... and must be done with great care.... ( just like the table saw setup ) so to say it's best to use the table saw for this type of job.

some great tips form Bob R. and Rick R. below..
Router Workshop: Router Tip Archive


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soapdish View Post
Was hoping to get some help and advice here. I am trying some jointing on my shop built RT. My fence is MDF and is square with the table. I was running some stock through making it all nice and pretty, but when I got done the stock is now narrower on one end. The stock I was using started out tapered, but I figured that running it down the bit would make it square. But no. So my question is, how do I make an irregular piece of stock square. I know I can use my TS, but some of the stuff I'm trying is to small for me to safetly use it. Do I need to make a jig? If one side of the stock is flat can I just make a front fence to use as a reference guide? BTW my fence is a solid fence with shim on the out feed side to act as a jointer. Hope my question is not to confusing, thanks for the replies.

Jake



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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-21-2010, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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Well it's nice to know I'm not alone here on this. After thinking this through some, and then after reading crquack's post it does make sense that the proper way to do this is to use a miter fence, put your straight part of the stock on it, then present it to the bit. Experts please chime in.

Jake

Edit,,Bob I think we were posting at the same time, I see what you are saying. I'll research a "trap stock" set up. Thanks

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-21-2010, 08:37 PM
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You haven't said how small the stock to be jointed is, as long as the TS is right, (if the stock is 2' long or less) you could hit the ends of the concave side with a hand plane to minimize the arch then put the concave side to the TS fence and push it through.

In either case the TS and jig, (plywood strip longer than the stock to be cut) use brads or pin nails to get one side done, then even short stock can be locked into the jig with cleats.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-21-2010, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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The stock I was practicing with today started out about 1" wide and 10" long. What is a good method for attaching stock to a jig for TS work? Are you saying to attach the stock to the jig, for instance using a small brad nail (nail gun) shot from underneath into the stock? If this is the case then I would have nail holes (although small) to deal with?

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-21-2010, 11:05 PM
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The stock I was practicing with today started out about 1" wide and 10" long. What is a good method for attaching stock to a jig for TS work? Are you saying to attach the stock to the jig, for instance using a small brad nail (nail gun) shot from underneath into the stock? If this is the case then I would have nail holes (although small) to deal with?
Around here 23 ga pinners are popular for just that reason. The holes as so tiny they're almost invisible and are easily filled.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-21-2010, 11:09 PM
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Hi Jake

If it started out tapered it will end up tapered, you can do it on the router table just like you do it on the table saw but it's tricky, it's called a trap stock setup... and must be done with great care.... ( just like the table saw setup ) so to say it's best to use the table saw for this type of job.

some great tips form Bob R. and Rick R. below..
Router Workshop: Router Tip Archive
=========
+1 on BJ's post. Some may say it's called a trap setup because the wood is trapped between the bit and the fence but *I* call it a trap setup because it's a setup to launch the board just like a trap (shotgun target) launcher.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-21-2010, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
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LOL, yep I was reading up on this type setup, looks like it could make things get really hairy quickly.

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