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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-24-2010, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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Default Router as jointer?

Is there a good way to use a table router to get a smooth, straight edge on a rough-sawn board?
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-24-2010, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishlore View Post
Is there a good way to use a table router to get a smooth, straight edge on a rough-sawn board?
Yes, there is.

It all depends upon what type of fence you have as to what method you need to follow. Basically, you need to make the outfeed side of the fence stick out further (about 1/32 to 1/16 is plenty) then the infeed side. Zero out the bit to the outfeed side, and then run your stock. Make sure you apply pressure to your stock on the outfeed side.

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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-24-2010, 05:13 PM
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Yes, there is.

It all depends upon what type of fence you have as to what method you need to follow. Basically, you need to make the outfeed side of the fence stick out further (about 1/32 to 1/16 is plenty) then the infeed side. Zero out the bit to the outfeed side, and then run your stock. Make sure you apply pressure to your stock on the outfeed side.
Yes, an easy way to do this is to apply a strip of Formica to the outfeed side which will give you the required differential.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-24-2010, 10:54 PM
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Bill, I agree with both the above answers but for "not applicable's" one you would have to make a dedicated fence, which is no big deal.

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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 07:20 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, an easy way to do this is to apply a strip of Formica to the outfeed side which will give you the required differential.
Brilliant! Thanks for saving me several hundred dollars on a jointer I don't need now and don't have room for anyway
.
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by fishlore View Post
Brilliant! Thanks for saving me several hundred dollars on a jointer I don't need now and don't have room for anyway
.
I've been trying this for quite some time now and have yet to pull it off successfully. Please do a pictorial essay on it so maybe I can see what I'm doing wrong ;-)

I got so fed up I bought a jointer.

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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 08:54 AM
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There are problems using a router table as a jointer. The TDC of the arc of the bit should be precisely (plus or minus .002 would be nice, but not likely) the same as the outfeed part of the fence. Setting that up takes a lot of time, and you'll always be using the table for other things besides jointing.

I understand about needing more room & cost, but even a small well built jointer will make woodmorking a lot nicer.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 09:36 AM
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As has been suggested, a simple dedicated fence with Laminex glued to the out feed side is all that's necessary. There is however one BIG disadvantage, not many cutters give much more than a 2" cut, whereas the average jointer covers 6".
Jonathan, could you elaborate on the TDC of the arc statement, I'm sure that I'm not the only puzzled one here.

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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 09:45 AM
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My router infeed and out feed fences are separate and adjustable so I just push the outfeed fwd.
A good straight edge across the out feed and the bit assures correct depth.
And, of course a spiral cutter is your friend in this process. With a spiral, TDC isn't a concern. At least, in my experience.
Gene

Last edited by Gene Howe; 01-25-2010 at 09:48 AM.
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 12:39 PM
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I am happy with mine, but as stated the drawback is the height of the cutter, around 50mm/2".
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