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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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Default Panel fit

As some of you know, I'm trying to build my first project that uses raised panels. Here are a couple of pics....is the panel fitting like it should, or should to set in deeper....or, have I just got the whole thing wrong....thanks for your comments.....
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 01:31 PM
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Hi Carl

It takes 3 bits to make the panel doors, try using the other bit, but the panel looks a bit thick, it should go right into the 1/4" wide slot once you have all the parts 4 parts to the frame done..you may want to use a back cutter on the panel so you can keep the same profile you want to end up with.

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cabinetmaking/
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Originally Posted by Wizard1500 View Post
As some of you know, I'm trying to build my first project that uses raised panels. Here are a couple of pics....is the panel fitting like it should, or should to set in deeper....or, have I just got the whole thing wrong....thanks for your comments.....



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Last edited by bobj3; 02-02-2010 at 03:19 PM.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 01:37 PM
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Hi Carl, Using a panel bit with a back cutter allows you to machine all your parts with the outside face down. What that achieves is the outside finish of you door will all be at the same height. Your center panel could be slightly undersize & the front side of your door would still have all parts (rails, stiles, & center raised panel) level with each other. Using matching sets that has a panel bit that has a back cutter will save you time as it centers your raised panel to fit the rail & stiles. If you have a panel bit without a back cutter you can machine this step separately. It just takes an extra step & setup over a panel bit that has the back cutter integrated.Because of this feature that is why I prefer the horizontal bits over the vertical bits

Here are the two different styles horizontal of bits.

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/Cove-...uctinfo/01001/

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/Cove-...ctinfo/785081/

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 01:39 PM
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Carl,

In the photo's it shows the panel going into the cope cut/end grain cut(bearing in the middle) it should go into the groove cut by the stick cutter/ long grain cutter(bearing on top). Panel looks good. Is the panel cuter for 5/8" or 3/4" thick stock that can make a difference as to whether you want to use a back cutter or not. Some people like the projecting panel( where the panel is about an 1/8" proud of the door). Also panel raising bits for 3/4" stock usually have a profile that forces the projecting panel to happen in order to get the complete profile in the panel. With a 5/8" panel cutter you can use 3/4 stock and a back cutter to trim the tongue down to size and keep the panel flush with the rail and stiles.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 02:12 PM
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Looking at your pictures it looks like the part is machined wrong. That profile should be a cope cut machined into the ends of your rails (top & bottom door parts) so they fit into the stile profile. Your center panel should fit into the square recess of the stile cutter not the profile as shown in your pictures.

First you want to machine (cope cutter)the ends of your rails (crosscut on upper & lower parts). Then change bit to your stile cutter. & machine all four pieces (center facing edge of rails & stiles). By doing this after you machine the rails with the cope cutter it will remove any tearout left from the coping operation.

There will be a square recess for your panel to sit in. It will not show on top & bottom of door because the cope on your top & bottom rail will fit snug into the rails concealing the 1/4" recess for the panel.

When assembling it is good practice to use panel align strips or spaceballs etc. to keep panel centered & from rattling in use. Two per side should be good enough. Do not use glue on center panel. Only glue where rails & stiles meet. I cut my center panels slightly undersize in length & width to fit the rubber strips (1/4" total for width & length).

James
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Last edited by jlord; 02-02-2010 at 02:17 PM.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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Here are the bits, I'm using:
MLCS Raised Panel w/ backcutter #8698.
Stacked Rail and Stile Bit #8871

Both are Ogee profile.

Let me see if I have this straight.....
Stacked R&S bit....bottom half of bit is for the ends of the rails (cross grain)....top half of bit is for the long grain cuts, and are what creates the groove for the panel to sit in....
Is this correct?.....I'll go back and cut some scraps.....
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 02:58 PM
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Carl,

Tophalf is for the end grain bottom half for the long grain and grooves. End grain cuts will be face up and long grain cuts face down.

The only way I can keep these straight is that the bearing rides on the tenon of the end grain and on the bottom "cheek" of the groove so it can follow a curve


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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 03:09 PM
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This may help

Podcast #18: Frames & Panels: The Heart of Cabinetmaking — Woodworking Online

==========




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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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OK, it looks like I have the cuts backwards......I'll try it again, and let you all know.....
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, that didn't work.....Here a some more pics.....btw, the bits are for 3/4" wood.....
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Last edited by Wizard1500; 02-02-2010 at 04:08 PM.
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