Help needed understanding the Oak Park table system - Router Forums
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post #1 of 98 (permalink) Old 02-11-2010, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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Default Help needed understanding the Oak Park table system

While I'm trying to learn to use my new and first router (PC 895PK) I'm starting to think about a table. Looks like it wouldn't be too hard to make a simple table, but most say it won't save any money. Plus, it looks like you need a table to make one.

So given my somewhat limited space and budget I really like the looks and simplicity of the OP table. But I can't quite figure it out and wonder if you folks could clear up a couple of things for me.

First, is there a reason the plate is positioned at one of the long ends of the table? Most I've seen have it centered and closer to the front. Where on the table do you stand to work? Secondly, I can't quite figure out the optional miter gauge-and since it's pretty pricey, do you really need a miter gauge in the first place? I guess since most tables seem to have one I sort of just expected one to be there.

Any thoughts or even better, pics of yours would sure help me. I've watched every video on their website but I think those are more geared to people who already know what they're doing-which clearly excludes me!

Thanks,

Ed
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post #2 of 98 (permalink) Old 02-11-2010, 01:40 PM
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I know I positioned my router towards one side to help with support on the infeed side. I can also position myself on the short end if I don't need it.

As far as making a table, the OP style seems to have a lot of proponents. Personally, I like the route (see what I did there?) I took with mine.

Building A Low-Cost Sturdy Work Bench From 2x4's And OSB

Top that with two 3/4" MDF bonded together with a scrap of Formica (et al). I put 2x4 cleats on the underside of the tabletop to keep it stable. $40 or so for everything, and when you move on to something else, you can put the OSB on and use it for it's original purpose.

I'm already thinking about my next table (a month or so with this), but this was a great place to start.
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post #3 of 98 (permalink) Old 02-11-2010, 02:10 PM
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Hi Ed

I need to say I like the OP system and the table but it has some real down falls to it.

I would suggest you just make a apple box ,turn on it's side and put in a plate like the one below ,the fence can be just about anything you want to use for it. (a true 2 x 4 works well )

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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggdogg View Post
While I'm trying to learn to use my new and first router (PC 895PK) I'm starting to think about a table. Looks like it wouldn't be too hard to make a simple table, but most say it won't save any money. Plus, it looks like you need a table to make one.

So given my somewhat limited space and budget I really like the looks and simplicity of the OP table. But I can't quite figure it out and wonder if you folks could clear up a couple of things for me.

First, is there a reason the plate is positioned at one of the long ends of the table? Most I've seen have it centered and closer to the front. Where on the table do you stand to work? Secondly, I can't quite figure out the optional miter gauge-and since it's pretty pricey, do you really need a miter gauge in the first place? I guess since most tables seem to have one I sort of just expected one to be there.

Any thoughts or even better, pics of yours would sure help me. I've watched every video on their website but I think those are more geared to people who already know what they're doing-which clearly excludes me!

Thanks,

Ed



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post #4 of 98 (permalink) Old 02-11-2010, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Hi Ed

I need to say I like the OP system and the table but it has some real down falls to it.

I would suggest you just make a apple box ,turn on it's side and put in a plate like the one below ,the fence can be just about anything you want to use for it. (a true 2 x 4 works well )



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So a miter gauge isn't really necessary? That would sure simplify things.
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post #5 of 98 (permalink) Old 02-11-2010, 02:34 PM
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Hi

A miter gauge is not needed and most of the time it's a PITA item on the router table..don't for get it's not like a table saw

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So a miter gauge isn't really necessary? That would sure simplify things.



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post #6 of 98 (permalink) Old 02-11-2010, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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Well Bob, I've been reading up a little here in the meanwhile and think I'm starting to understand better. Looks like it would be a real pain to line the fence up with it anyway, so maybe a coping sled or even just a push block is the way to go.

If you use a push block (or coping sled) up against the fence, doesn't the cutter contact and cut the edge of it as well as the workpiece?
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post #7 of 98 (permalink) Old 02-11-2010, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggdogg View Post
First, is there a reason the plate is positioned at one of the long ends of the table? Most I've seen have it centered and closer to the front. Where on the table do you stand to work?
A lot depends on how you work. I position myself so I can see above the bit and beside it. I'm 5'10" (178cm) and I position the plate so I don't have to lean over too far. My suggestion would be to put a baseplate somewhere on a table and see if you can move material past the centre without tiring too much. Try moving the baseplate around. Now, try the same thing on the kitchen counter. See the difference? The kitchen counter will be somewhere around 36" high. The kitchen table is about 29". Try adjusting up and down and around and find the most comfortable position. That becomes your model for the router table. That's one of the best reasons never to buy and always to make.

Oh, learn from experience --- don't position your baseplate at a diagonal to the edge of the table. Always keep them parallel.

Quote:
Secondly, I can't quite figure out the optional miter gauge-and since it's pretty pricey, do you really need a miter gauge in the first place? I guess since most tables seem to have one I sort of just expected one to be there.
Ok, now you're into philosophy and that is dictated by how deep your pockets are. A router bit is always round. Which angle would you like to use? There are lots of people who would like you to think that router bits are square and that you need their more-expensive-than-the-next guy gizmos just to be able to find the on-off switch. Unfortunately, the only people they're helping is themselves -- to your cash.

Go to The Woodworking Channel and look for "The router workshop" videos and watch them like you're taking on a new religion. Watch and learn. Then decide if you need a mitre gauge.

Quote:
Any thoughts or even better, pics of yours would sure help me. I've watched every video on their website but I think those are more geared to people who already know what they're doing-which clearly excludes me!
I missed something. Which videos?

Allthunbs
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post #8 of 98 (permalink) Old 02-11-2010, 03:41 PM
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Hi Ed

Right on the push block is the best way I think, it can be just a simple 12" x 12' block of wood with a handle or a peg for a handle ,most coping selds are a waste of money, I have many and have tried many out..

Fence ,,that's the neat thing about the router table it can be anywhere on the table and if you try to line it up with a track it can be a real PITA job.

I use a swing fence most of the time , that I got from the OP system setup.
Bob and Rick are the Pro's and you can pickup many,many tips from them called the Kiss way of doing things

Just a note about the plate ,it can be anywhere and anyway you want it to be, it just holds the router for you so to speak..
The top,I would suggest you keep it low to the floor , about 28" to 32" high...you can use your weight to keep the stock down to the table unlike if it's to high.



========

Quote:
Originally Posted by biggdogg View Post
Well Bob, I've been reading up a little here in the meanwhile and think I'm starting to understand better. Looks like it would be a real pain to line the fence up with it anyway, so maybe a coping sled or even just a push block is the way to go.

If you use a push block (or coping sled) up against the fence, doesn't the cutter contact and cut the edge of it as well as the workpiece?



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

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http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
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Last edited by bobj3; 02-11-2010 at 03:49 PM.
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post #9 of 98 (permalink) Old 02-11-2010, 05:23 PM
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I'm relatively new to the site, but not to routers. I watched TRW when it was on a local station, but can't get it on satellite. So, I have some questions also about the TRW table since I am about to build my second table.

1. My current table is 24" wide X 17" deep. The insert is centered left and right and set to the front of the table. I stand facing the long side of the table and push my work from right to left. What is the advantage of having the insert placed on one end of the table and pushing the stock across the narrow dimension of the table?

2. What are the dimensions of the typical TRW table top?

3. I do like the low fence for most work. Mine is 4" high so I have to move the stock right to left parallel to the fence instead of away from me like a table saw. I'm going to use that feature in my new table.

4. What about dust collection with TRW table? How do most of you handle that?

Thanks for any input. I look forward to building some clone of TRW table, but want to understand some of the principles before I do.
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post #10 of 98 (permalink) Old 02-11-2010, 05:54 PM
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check this video of the router work shop router table idea's ?? Oak Park Enterprises Ltd.: Catalogue

del schisler
port st. lucie, florida
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