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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
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Default Routing drawer lock joints

I'm nearing completion of a Captains Bed for one of my boys, need to construct the drawers. I have a MCLS raised panel/rail/stile kit that includes a drawer lock bit that looks like it might save me a bit of time. I've got a mid-grade Ryobi table with a slightly less than terrible fence over a Ryobi 1/2" 2HP router. Any trappers tricks for a newb?
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by interceptor View Post
I'm nearing completion of a Captains Bed for one of my boys, need to construct the drawers. I have a MCLS raised panel/rail/stile kit that includes a drawer lock bit that looks like it might save me a bit of time. I've got a mid-grade Ryobi table with a slightly less than terrible fence over a Ryobi 1/2" 2HP router. Any trappers tricks for a newb?
Hi Ken - welcome to the forum
For one thing you will probably want to put some nice, high fence boards on your table as you need to run the sides vertically. I also used stacked featherboards to help keep the sides up.
Thats a nice bit once you get it set up. I would recommend you watch the MLCS video a couple of times. Will try to find the link and post it in an edit.

Edit - http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ck_bits_anchor

One thing about overlap joints. If you are using a large overlap I would recommend you hog out the majority of the waste on the tablesaw or some other way. My first use involved something like a 2" overlap and that is a lot of stock to take out with a drawer lock. Also, if you are using plywood for the sides, make sure the grain on the top layer is running vertical so you are routing with the grain. Don't ask how I know about this one. :cry:

John Schaben

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Last edited by jschaben; 02-25-2010 at 01:12 AM.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 01:50 PM
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Hi Ken,

The advice from John about a high fence is correct. As it happens, I just made one with a sliding fence to do lock miter joints. I got the design from an FWW tip and it works perfect. The whole thing is made from MDF so it's cheap and flat. The fence is 7" high. I just clamp it to my regular router fence. It's late here now, so I will set it up and take a photo for you tomorrow and post it on this thread.

Mike, an American living in Norway

Theory is when one knows everything, but nothing comes out right.
Experience is when everything comes out right, but no one knows why
In my shop theory and practice are united. Nothing comes out right and nobody knows why.

Last edited by Stefang; 02-25-2010 at 02:58 PM.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, good stuff. I'm using maple for the drawer sides so well appreciate the tip about hogging lots of material and watching the grain. On a personal note Mike, Takk for informasjonen and hope all's well in Norge, have cousins in Rauma and Trysil I still correspond with.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 11:48 PM
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I too am working on solving the problem of a vertical run. The depth of the drawer is only 5.25". The opening of the fence has been reduced to the min, but I am still having the problem of a forward backward rock as I am sliding the material...What to do?
I have not seen an item that slides down the fence, but holds in the material.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-26-2010, 10:13 AM
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I too am working on solving the problem of a vertical run. The depth of the drawer is only 5.25". The opening of the fence has been reduced to the min, but I am still having the problem of a forward backward rock as I am sliding the material...What to do?
I have not seen an item that slides down the fence, but holds in the material.
Hi Sid - Welcome to the forum
Have you tried a large push block? You would need kind of a specialized one; same thickness as stock to go between the featherboards. Doesn't need to be all that elaborate though. 5 or 6 in wide, slightly taller than fence and thickness of workpiece. Could also double as sacrifical backup board. Make it wide enough and just rip a new edge as needed.
Bj and Stephan have also built specialized fences for this. Haven't seen Stephans yet but I think Bj has some shots of his in the gallery.

John Schaben

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-26-2010, 01:43 PM
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Hi Ken and Sid,

I tried to post the photos of the lock miter fenced, but had a problem. I think I breached a rule or something. I am posting it as a thread instead with your names as a reference on this same forum. That way I can preview as I go to make sure the text and pics go together correctly. I'm doing it now.

Mike, an American living in Norway

Theory is when one knows everything, but nothing comes out right.
Experience is when everything comes out right, but no one knows why
In my shop theory and practice are united. Nothing comes out right and nobody knows why.
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