pivoting fence, small profiles? - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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Default pivoting fence, small profiles?

Hi everyone,

I'm planning on making a VERY simple table for a small trim router so I can make miniature wood trim for architectural models. I've seen a photo of one that has one end of the fence connected to the table with a knob to tighten and the other side of the fence swings free, just clamped where needed. I've seen this kind of setup on larger tables too, is there an advantage or disadvantage to this setup rather than having the whole fence able to move (assuming I know I will only be using it for very thin pieces of wood and won't need the extra room behind the cutter)

Also, does anyone have any suggestions or safety tips for working with thin pieces of wood like this? For example, my "crown molding" will be 3/8" thick, and "baseboards" may only be 1/8" or less, both around 3/8" wide and 24" length. I'm thinking I'll need to tape/glue the pieces to be cut onto a larger board for the cut. Anyone working with very small profiling cuts like this?

Thanks everyone, great info on this site!!
Dan
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 09:49 PM
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Hi Dan

I have a router setup that way and it works great with the swing fence,if you click on my Gallery you can see pictures of it..I use it for the small jobs .

small swing fence below
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...ter-table.html
========

Quote:
Originally Posted by deacon76 View Post
Hi everyone,

I'm planning on making a VERY simple table for a small trim router so I can make miniature wood trim for architectural models. I've seen a photo of one that has one end of the fence connected to the table with a knob to tighten and the other side of the fence swings free, just clamped where needed. I've seen this kind of setup on larger tables too, is there an advantage or disadvantage to this setup rather than having the whole fence able to move (assuming I know I will only be using it for very thin pieces of wood and won't need the extra room behind the cutter)

Also, does anyone have any suggestions or safety tips for working with thin pieces of wood like this? For example, my "crown molding" will be 3/8" thick, and "baseboards" may only be 1/8" or less, both around 3/8" wide and 24" length. I'm thinking I'll need to tape/glue the pieces to be cut onto a larger board for the cut. Anyone working with very small profiling cuts like this?

Thanks everyone, great info on this site!!
Dan



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Last edited by bobj3; 03-02-2010 at 11:13 AM.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 09:50 PM
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I use the pivot on my fence all the time. It does not matter what angle your fence sits at on the table. The fence is always referenced from the center of the bit.

James
Whittier, CA.

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-02-2010, 01:09 AM
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Dan... a safety tip. When making small pieces, route as much as possible before cutting the small piece away from something larger. For example, if you want to make a 4" long piece of trim that's 1/8" x 1/8" with a 1/16" round-over bit, use a board that's 1/8" thick and 4" or longer, but perhaps 6" wide. After cutting the profile, rip it to 1/8" width on a table saw. It keeps your fingers further from the bit.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-02-2010, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. I think I'll go ahead and try the pivot fence idea, just for simplicity's sake.
Great idea Jim, I don't know why I didn't think of that. Thanks very much...

Dan
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-02-2010, 01:15 PM
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Hi Dan

With the swing fence and the 1/8" shank router bits you can make all the small stuff you want easy and safe

I got my set from Grizzy at 18.oo bucks if I recall.

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"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

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Last edited by bobj3; 03-02-2010 at 01:19 PM.
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