Help Me Design My Router Table - Router Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-20-2010, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Charles
Posts: 75
 
Default Help Me Design My Router Table

I need another table router as the projects are getting bigger and bigger (longer). I build acrylic aquariums P/T and I don't have the room in a one car garage and therefore have to work outside when it's not raining.

Attached are some rough drawings I've been toying with. The first is the table top with a stationary top, the 20" and the rest will fold down and the whole thing will roll around.

The lines on the 30" part of the folding table are slots for the fence that I will need. Has to be stout but still light enough to move around and stay straight. I will have another add-on leaf on the end of the 30" as one of my jobs need several lengths of acrylic at 36" long. So the slots will be on the leaf as well.

This table need to be sturdy, stout but still be light enough to move around without calling out the National Guard for help.

Next drawing is of the "main frame". All pieces of the frame, I thought of making laminating legs and rails using 1/4" particle board on the outside and a piece of 1/4" ply on the inside.

And the last pix is of the folding frame. Those dark lines with circles are hinges so the frame will fold up and save some room in the garage. Again everything is laminated for strength and weight. The main rails I though of making 6" wide and the legs about 2 1/2" wide.

So that's about it - should I use ply on the outside and particle on the inside, should I use some other wood, want something that won't warp thru time, forgot the most important factor, doesn't cost and arm and a leg to build. What other materials can I use?

For the top's, I also wanted to laminate using 1/4" particle board and ?? to build up to about a 3/4" thickness. But since it on wheels I could go to about 1" think top and the short 'leaf" would not be that heavy.



Top is 50" x 48" with 20"x48' being stationary.




The height of the table top from the ground will be about 34" high as I'm only 5' 7" and need all the weight behind me (almost 57 this year ) for control.

Sorry for such a long post, but you need all the info thanks for looking

Charles

Last edited by lemonyx; 03-21-2010 at 05:06 PM.
lemonyx is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-21-2010, 04:49 AM
Retired Moderator
 
BigJimAK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Jim
Posts: 3,503
     
Default

Charles,

First, a bit about my shop, as that will be the basis for my thoughts. I work out of a 2-car garage that sometimes shares space with my bride's SUV, so I too am "space-challenged", though not as tight as yours. My RT is 32x52 and is also mounted on casters.

If I'm following your sketches correctly, you're planning an 18"x46" cabinet base, with a 28"x46" "fold out" extension for wide cuts. The extension table would then be added once the extension was unfolded. My suggestions and recommendations are based on this assumption.

First, I'd think long and hard before "wasting" all the space under the 18"x46" base. Allowing 4-7/8" for the casters and support frame, in the remaining 27" of height you could install two columns of drawers (one column short because of the router hanging down). For example, 4 drawers 4.5" high and 1 drawer 9" high, all 24" wide on one side and a drawer or two on the other. Some or all of this could be enclosed cupboards. That would provide a lot of storage space for bits, wrenches, extension cords and many other tools. It would also add some weight while lowering the center of gravity, making it less "tippy".


Regarding the fold-out, my one concern is ensuring the outboard vertical support remains 90* to the table top (the vertical part doesn't lean in or out, letting the far end of the extension table droop), especially if you're going to have it on casters. Give some careful thought to the top / end support joint to ensure it remains at 90*. You may be able to make good use of a secondary angle support here, but this area is out of my expertise. I'll defer to BJ and the other experts here for their suggested approach alternatives.

Jim

Check out that new high-tech cordless router.. wireless and no recharging required!!
BigJimAK is offline  
post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-21-2010, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Charles
Posts: 75
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJimAK View Post
Charles,

First, a bit about my shop, as that will be the basis for my thoughts. I work out of a 2-car garage that sometimes shares space with my bride's SUV, so I too am "space-challenged", though not as tight as yours. My RT is 32x52 and is also mounted on casters.

Got a pix of your table?

If I'm following your sketches correctly, you're planning an 18"x46" cabinet base, with a 28"x46" "fold out" extension for wide cuts. The extension table would then be added once the extension was unfolded. My suggestions and recommendations are based on this assumption.

Yes, the frame would be 18"x46" but the top is 20"x48" (stationary part) and the hinged part of the table is 30"x48" with an add on leaf of another 12"x48" on the long end. The long part of the extension will fold down and attached with HD door hinges as a paino hinge would be too flimsy (MO) and will move with the rest of the base. BTW I like that idea of adding a cabinet with storage, can't have enough storage.

First, I'd think long and hard before "wasting" all the space under the 18"x46" base. Allowing 4-7/8" for the casters and support frame, in the remaining 27" of height you could install two columns of drawers (one column short because of the router hanging down). For example, 4 drawers 4.5" high and 1 drawer 9" high, all 24" wide on one side and a drawer or two on the other. Some or all of this could be enclosed cupboards. That would provide a lot of storage space for bits, wrenches, extension cords and many other tools. It would also add some weight while lowering the center of gravity, making it less "tippy".

Very good idea, more storage.

Regarding the fold-out, my one concern is ensuring the outboard vertical support remains 90* to the table top (the vertical part doesn't lean in or out, letting the far end of the extension table droop), especially if you're going to have it on casters. Give some careful thought to the top / end support joint to ensure it remains at 90*. You may be able to make good use of a secondary angle support here, but this area is out of my expertise. I'll defer to BJ and the other experts here for their suggested approach alternatives.

The "folding Frame is not attached (seperate unit) and will be added once the fold down is up in play.(which will probably be all the time and will not be on casters. That's a good point in keeping the top flat, I could add leveling bolts to the top of the folding frame, should be quick and easy to level and go.

Jim
Thanks Jim for the suggestions. Any ideas on material?

My one car garage "shop" comprises of a Delta Unisaw on a Besmeyer moble frame and right side extension table and on the other side a steel beech liberated from the dumpster with a solid core door on top. Space down the middle is the pathway to the garage door and back. It's a good thing I'm a small frame guy.

Charles

Last edited by lemonyx; 03-21-2010 at 05:10 PM.
lemonyx is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-21-2010, 08:27 PM
Registered User
 
allthunbs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Country: Canada
First Name: Ron
Posts: 2,881
 
Default

Hi Charles:

Jim pretty much nailed the status quo so I have to go in a different direction.

I'm loathe to try moving large pieces unless absolutely necessary. Depending on how large your pieces are and what you have to do, perhaps a method of holding your work pieces to the table and a fence on top of the workpiece for control of the router.

Have you looked at vacuum tables? There are even shop-built versions on the 'net.

I hate to admit it, but you might take a look at a track saw that can take a router i.e. Festool or similar. I just use a straight edge but you might need something else.

Allthunbs
allthunbs is offline  
post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-21-2010, 09:27 PM
Forum Contributor
 
AxlMyk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Country: United States
First Name: Mike
Posts: 3,165
   
Default

A stand 18" deep will be unstable. 24" is better.
Have you considered mounting the router in the table saw wing? That would save a lot of space.

.
Never, under any circumstances, combine a sleeping pill and a laxative on the same night.

Mike - Retired FoMoCo Tradesman
My Gallery @ http://www.routerforums.com/axlmyks-stuff/
AxlMyk is offline  
post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2010, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Charles
Posts: 75
 
Default

I'm using the router like you would a jointer. But when the pieces get to 36" and longer and 48" wide then there's no way to hold it steady. With the router table, set the fence and run your pieces thru. No brains, no goof up and all the pieces are the same size.
Using a straight edge would be hard to get repeatability.

I have on the other end of the steel top (saw table) a Inca band saw and a Delta variable speed jig saw so there is no room on the saw top to mount the router. Plus it's PITA to lug the saw out, much eaiser to move around something smaller.

Good idea on the 24" width.

Anyone have any ideas on material, light wight, strong, last??
lemonyx is offline  
post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-07-2010, 11:17 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Brad
Posts: 1,036
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lemonyx View Post
I'm using the router like you would a jointer. But when the pieces get to 36" and longer and 48" wide then there's no way to hold it steady. With the router table, set the fence and run your pieces thru. No brains, no goof up and all the pieces are the same size.
Using a straight edge would be hard to get repeatability.

I have on the other end of the steel top (saw table) a Inca band saw and a Delta variable speed jig saw so there is no room on the saw top to mount the router. Plus it's PITA to lug the saw out, much eaiser to move around something smaller.

Good idea on the 24" width.

Anyone have any ideas on material, light wight, strong, last??
I would suggest a Phenolic Faced Multi Ply top that is 1 1/2 inches thick. This usually means doubling up the material. I would put polyurethane on the exposed edges. It is stable, slick, flat, and fairly inexpensive for what you get.

Buy Phenolic Faced MultiPly, 3/4" x 24" x 48" at Woodcraft.com


Just remember what my father always said, " Half the people in this world are below average!", and everything in life will make a hellova lot more sense.

Last edited by timbertailor; 04-07-2010 at 11:21 AM.
timbertailor is offline  
post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-07-2010, 06:21 PM
Retired Moderator
 
BigJimAK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Jim
Posts: 3,503
     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lemonyx View Post
Thanks Jim for the suggestions. Any ideas on material?

My one car garage "shop" comprises of a Delta Unisaw on a Besmeyer moble frame and right side extension table and on the other side a steel beech liberated from the dumpster with a solid core door on top. Space down the middle is the pathway to the garage door and back. It's a good thing I'm a small frame guy.

Charles
Charles.. I've attached one picture, as you requested. My table was set up for 2 routers, with a pin router arm for one router and more pics are in my gallery.

I laminated two layers of 3/4" MDF and then covered the top and bottom with Formica to control the affect of humidity change, as recommended by some of the router masters here. I added some maple trim on the edges (just because I liked the look) and finished it with some solvent-based wipe-on polyurethane.

If you decide to do this, be sure to do the lamination on a flat surface (I was fortunate to have access to a 30"x72" folding table with a laminate-covered MDF top). I made it last summer and I haven't noticed any deflection. As you can see, during that time it's been across two sawhorses, still no deflection. I'm in the process of building a RT cabinet (with drawers, power distribution, dist collection etc.) for it, so soon it'll have be be better supported.

MDF is good flat stuff but it's *heavy* and doesn't take fasteners well so I'd be tempted to glue on wooden strips and screw hinges to them. Perhaps others with more experience hinging MDF can jump in here.

I'm fortunate to have a two-car garage but my Uni, router table, bandsaw, jointer, etc. are also on casters as occasionally my bride likes to park her car inside to thaw out in the winter. It's a good thing it's two-car.. for I'm amything *but* a small-frame guy!! With the wonderful bride I have, I'm blessed..
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 007.jpg
Views:	152
Size:	353.1 KB
ID:	34652  


Check out that new high-tech cordless router.. wireless and no recharging required!!
BigJimAK is offline  
post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Charles
Posts: 75
 
Default

Nice set-up you have there Jim. Mine is several layers of 3/4" particle, 3/8" MDF and a layer of 1/8" ply on top and I added a piece of Formica on top of it all. And I also sit it on Harbor freight saw horses. Works great for small stuff but a PITA to use on those bigger tanks that I have built.



I found some "desk's" tops on Craiglist for free and will be using them for the router table build. They are only 24"w x 59"l but will fit the fold-up frame I'm making and for an extension "leaf" I have cut down two of the top just for that purpose. These suckers are heavy about 1" thick with a steel bar in the middle of the table for support. The router will be mounted on the upper right corner of the table (pix) and the ends with the cut outs will be butted together and held with clamps from underneath (those holes for PC cables or wires)


from wood magazine

don't need to buy the plan, the idea is there just size to what I need.

Now to figure out what to use for the fence. I'll be using this "UHMW" the cutting board material for the face of the fence. These pieces are 1/2" thick and were free.


Thought of using a piece of angle aluminum and just face one side with the plastic but then it wouldn't be flat enough so I guess I'll just get a bigger piece of the cutting board material, it's only $5.00 a foot.

Last edited by lemonyx; 04-09-2010 at 01:55 PM.
lemonyx is offline  
post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-15-2010, 11:17 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Country: United States
First Name: Doug
Posts: 133
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by timbertailor View Post
I would suggest a Phenolic Faced Multi Ply top that is 1 1/2 inches thick. This usually means doubling up the material.
Do a Google search for "XtraPly PSF"
You can usually find it at Constrution Supply Stores, It's used for concrete forms. Also check with boat suppliers that carry replacment wood products.

Localy here in the Detroit Area I can get a 4' x 8' sheet of 3/4" 14-PLY Birch PSF for around $75
dwall174 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New Router my way reible General Routing 21 12-08-2018 12:06 PM
Mixing Bosch 1617 Router fixed base with Craftsman professional router sf_basilix Starting Off 17 10-11-2012 06:20 PM
Motorized Router Lift - Eagle Lake Style johnwnixon Table-mounted Routing 14 05-23-2012 05:51 PM
Looking for input on home built router table italian biker Table-mounted Routing 10 07-24-2009 10:49 AM
A REALLY simple router table Occam Table-mounted Routing 7 11-30-2004 10:41 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome