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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Default Bit Height

I'm new to the forum and this is a first. I'm not really a seasoned woodworker but have had to do this out of necessity of finishing a house that was started by someone else.

My Question: I have a new Bosh router table with a new Porter Cable router mounted. I don't know model numbers and they are not readily available to me as they are at the work site. Last night I was trying to rout window styles/rails and I could not get the router to go low enough on the table to get the proper depth of my cut. I had a very small router bit that I had seated all the way down on the collet (??) and it still stuck up too high. I pulled and adjusted the router as low as I could go on the table and it would have been way too deep of a cut.

Is there some kind of attachement that I need to put on my router so there is a greater varience?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Marshoaks
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 05:21 PM
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May I suggest that you take the router out of the table and add a spacer between the base and the table. Make it thicker than you need to allow for more adjustment.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 05:27 PM
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Hi Marshoaks

That's not the norm but you can get around that type of error by clamping some 1/4" or 1/2" thick MDF to the table top, once you cut the MDF to the size for your router table cut or drill out a knotch for the bit to turn free in, then clamp it down in place.

I use one on my table sometimes when I want or need to use a sled on the router table for a true guide edge for the sled..

===

Quote:
Originally Posted by marshoaks View Post
I'm new to the forum and this is a first. I'm not really a seasoned woodworker but have had to do this out of necessity of finishing a house that was started by someone else.

My Question: I have a new Bosh router table with a new Porter Cable router mounted. I don't know model numbers and they are not readily available to me as they are at the work site. Last night I was trying to rout window styles/rails and I could not get the router to go low enough on the table to get the proper depth of my cut. I had a very small router bit that I had seated all the way down on the collet (??) and it still stuck up too high. I pulled and adjusted the router as low as I could go on the table and it would have been way too deep of a cut.

Is there some kind of attachement that I need to put on my router so there is a greater varience?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Marshoaks


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Last edited by bobj3; 03-24-2010 at 06:00 PM.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Hi Marshoaks

That's not the norm but you can get around that type of error by clamping some 1/4" or 1/2" thick MDF to the table top, once you cut the MDF to the size for your router table cut or drill out a knotch for the bit to turn free in, then clamp it down in place.

I use one on my table sometimes when I want or need to use a sled on the router table for a true guide edge for the sled..

===
BJ,
You give me so many new ideas, I will have to buy another shed just for you jigs....<LOL>


James
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 08:58 PM
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Hi James

hahahahahahaha , I do like jigs can't have too many of them

I will say the one I posted is one of the better ones, no miter slot needed or tee track and it's always true to the bit and the fence can be anywhere on the table top.

=======

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Originally Posted by jw2170 View Post
BJ,
You give me so many new ideas, I will have to buy another shed just for you jigs....<LOL>


James



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Last edited by bobj3; 03-24-2010 at 09:05 PM.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jw2170 View Post
BJ,
You give me so many new ideas, I will have to buy another shed just for you jigs....<LOL>


James
Be sure you get one with a tip-out or expandable side!!

Check out that new high-tech cordless router.. wireless and no recharging required!!
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-25-2010, 01:58 AM
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Marshoaks, welcome to the RouterForums. Glad you signed up.




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In woodworking there is no scrap, only firewood.



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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-25-2010, 06:27 AM
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Default Marshoaks -- read this!

Quote:
Originally Posted by marshoaks View Post
I'm new to the forum and this is a first. I'm not really a seasoned woodworker but have had to do this out of necessity of finishing a house that was started by someone else.

My Question: I have a new Bosh router table with a new Porter Cable router mounted. I don't know model numbers and they are not readily available to me as they are at the work site. Last night I was trying to rout window styles/rails and I could not get the router to go low enough on the table to get the proper depth of my cut. I had a very small router bit that I had seated all the way down on the collet (??) and it still stuck up too high. I pulled and adjusted the router as low as I could go on the table and it would have been way too deep of a cut.

Is there some kind of attachement that I need to put on my router so there is a greater varience?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Marshoaks
Marshoaks:

STOP!
You may have the bit set above the baseplate and that is EXTREMELY dangerous.


Before you go any further, take some pictures and post it for us to see. I may have seen this once before with a 3 1/2" bit and it wasn't pretty.

We also need the make and model of your router and your table and if possible take a picture of your stile and rail bit set.

Look, I'm reading between the lines. I may be raising a false alarm here and I may be way off base but I'd rather be safe than sorry I didn't speak up.

If you haven't reached your 10 post requirement for the forum to be able to post pictures, say hello to 10 people in the introduction.

I'll check tonight to see if you've posted the pictures.

You other guys: the Porter Cable only has a 1 3/16" guide hole. If his rail and stile set is a tad over 1 3/16", that maybe his problem.

Marshoaks please fill out your profile so we can see where you are. That makes a big difference in equipment. People in Europe can only gain access to certain tools, in North America we have selection up the ying yang and the poor fellows in OZ have to import from New Zealand ;-) Oh I just love being a s**t disturber

Allthunbs

Last edited by allthunbs; 03-25-2010 at 06:33 AM.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-25-2010, 08:16 AM
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Marshoaks,
Did you remove the router's base plate before attaching the router to the table or the tables baseplate? My narrowest S&R set is bosch at 1-3/4 wide

I suppose it could be missed, but marshoaks didn't mention bit contact with the base plate, that would be kind of obvious.

I don't suppose the the router was bottoming out against something on the cabinet floor?

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-25-2010, 09:29 AM
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Most " styles/rails bits " are made to use on 3/4" thick stock, if you are trying to use your bits on 1/2" thick stock or less you may have a error with setting the height, if so get the right bit set to do the job.

Junior Cove Raised Panel Set-Sommerfeld's Tools For Wood

"Now you can make the ultimate miniature frames and panels from material as thin as 7/16" to as thick as 11/16" to as small as 2" square. The Junior Raised Panel Set relies on the same principles as its parent set."

========




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Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
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