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router lift or Triton ?

10K views 22 replies 12 participants last post by  jschaben 
#1 ·
Hi, guys. I'm new . I'm redoing my shop with a new saw. my old had a router mounted underneath. I would like to have the ability to work, adjust and change bits without going underneath the table. Should I buy a router lift for my Millwaukee 5615 1 3/4hp or just get a Triton with the above table adjuster built in? The lifts cost almost as much as the Triton router that would have more power. what are the pros and cons. I need to make a table as well... Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
I really like my Jessem lift. It's heavy duty and expensive, but worth it.
IMHO, a lift with a plate mounted in the table is better than using the router's base. YMMV, though.
 
#5 ·
Jim,
"Solid" being the operative word....followed closely by "precise adjustments".
We have both in the Bench Dog, or the Jessem.
Mine is teamed with the Jointech Sawtrain system. Uses the same fence for the saw and the router table. Handy!
 
#6 ·
I have a Jessem lift for my DW625, also a Trend T11 in the Trend pro table. The Trend table has a crank which lifts and drops the router. Both are good, but the Jessem is superior. A better action, repeatable settings, the router is more secure in the lift. I catch my right index finger nuckle in a hole on the table when I crank the Trend.
 
#7 ·
Guys, you're comparing apples and oranges here... The triton sells for $250-$300 while the JessEm Mast-R-Lift sells for $300-$350 before you add a router (a PC7518, for example, is another $350). In terms of value the Triton wins; there's no comparison. The JessEm adds a number of features but pound-for-pound the ratio of incremental cost to incremental features is high. Whether or not it's "worth it" (and I own one) is an individual judgement.
 
#9 ·
Oh, for sure. But the OP mentioned he does not need a new router if going the route of the lift. For some things, I find the value is not in the money spent, but in the ease and enjoyment of using. It can save on some bad words said, or things that might get broken. :lol:

That said, I am strongly thinking of getting the Triton 2 1/4HP model for off table work.
 
#10 ·
My bad, I missed that you only had a smaller Milwaukee. Oopsie.

Have you had a chance to try out the two options you listed. I have tried both, in fact the Tritan 3 1/4HP router on the weekend. You could always try just it if you need a more powerful router anyway, and if you find you could use the precision and ease of a lift, then dole out the money for it.

I took the approach that I wanted a router motor dedicated to the table, and for that reason bought the motor only. I got the P 3 1/4Hp.
 
#12 ·
I have a table mounted Triton and love it. You absolutely cannot slow this router down. I never wanted to spend the money for the router lift, though I am certain that they would beat bending over and adjusting the bit height from below. Good luck with your decision!
 
#13 ·
Total newbie here, so I'm trying to catch up. Is a router lift the thing that goes under the table for accuracy? I have a DeWalt Router, so I wonder if I can get one. I found one on Rockler called the Smartlift Digital Router Lift. Do they all have digital readouts and can you post some links to some?
 
#15 ·
Michael,

Let's take it from the top. :) Most people use plates, as they are strong and thin, so do not use up a lot of bit length getting to the wood. They re typically also easily removable, to get at your router when desired.

For those that use lifts (as do I). the lift is typically built off of a plate. They are designed to allow precise adjustment of bit depth from above the table, usually with a crank adjusting a threaded rod.

Some routers are now being designed with this functionality built in to their base, although that still leaves the router needing to be attached to a plate or table directly. Unless the plate is specifically designed for, and holes drilled for the router base and height adjuster, you need to add your own.

Some lifts add other features such as a height lock that is integrated and auto-engages or is designed for top access.

To date only a few lifts come with integrated digital displays although universal digital displays are available for about $50. The ones that come with displays seem to put them on the top, where its convenient to view them but the top surface also becomes abraded by whatever slides over it (typically only wood) while the universals are designed for a remote-mount display, which is very convenient for some.

If you're just getting started (or even if you're seasoned :) ) here's a good thread with pictures of a bunch of our members tables. A great source of ideas... and eye candy. :D

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/17212-wanted-pictures-your-table.html
 
#16 ·
Just bought the Kregg Table with Triton 3 1/4 router combo at a local woodworking show. Still in the process of completing the set up. Kregg rep at show said there was a template to allow drilling the hole for the router adjustment handle in the plate. Guess what no template, so I will have to work on this tonight. I had the Jessem set up before, I think the lift was better, but when my old router went out, I sold and thought I would try this. I will let you guys know what I think in a few weeks.
 
#18 ·
Triton

I have the big Triton and it's awesome! The crank works great. It auto- locks for bit changes. I'd get the Triton for a designated table router and use your current router for hand held use. My only complaint with the Triton is the goofy dust collection hose size. They have excellent service and stand behind their products.
 
#19 ·
Sump pump hose at the big box store will fit the dust port on the Trition base. I use a Woodpecker Aluminum Mounting plate. It came pre-drilled for bolt pattern but I had to drill hole for above table crank.
One draw back on Triton, The base plate opening was not large enough to take my raised panel bits. I did a totally unauthorized modification. I used a pattern bit and enlarged the hole to match the mounting plate opening.
 
#20 ·
poor man's router lift

I've seen a couple of "poor man's router lifts" in photos but can't quite figure out how to get the action to work. Can anybody supply the actual mechanism used to get a screw jack to lift a plunge router?
Thought of using a car jack but not enough depth in table for it to fit unless I use a scissor jack.
Told you this was a poor man's way to get the job done. I'm on a VERY fixed income and several $100's just doesn't fit the budget.
Any help would be appreciated.
David aka Skyewalker
 
#23 ·
I've seen a couple of "poor man's router lifts" in photos but can't quite figure out how to get the action to work. Can anybody supply the actual mechanism used to get a screw jack to lift a plunge router?
Thought of using a car jack but not enough depth in table for it to fit unless I use a scissor jack.
Told you this was a poor man's way to get the job done. I'm on a VERY fixed income and several $100's just doesn't fit the budget.
Any help would be appreciated.
David aka Skyewalker
Hi David, Seems like most of the home built lifts that use a auto jack, use the scissors style. Some may incorporate the lead screw of a screw jack into a shop made lift but that involves constructing the rest of the lift. If there are any auto recyclers in your area, you may be able to get a scissors jack for scrap metal prices, maybe even for free. :)
 
#22 ·
I used to have the full blown Jessem set up, lift slide attachment the works. I used a porter cable 3 /14 in the table. The porter cable router went bad, so I decided to go to the Kreg table with Triton 3 1/4 router. It was offered at a show for $750 with all the bells and whistles. I like a lot of features on the Triton router, and some aspects about the Kreg table I prefer, but if I had to do over I think I would have preferred to stick with my old Jessem system. The router lift is "OK" on the Triton, but not near as handy as the Jessem system.
 
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