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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Default Two Questions

Two questions from a man with no imagination.

I have a table that is a wing to my cabinet saw. So far, so good, I like the setup a lot.

Now.

I've been using the router table to rout reliefs in large boards, most recently to relieve an outer jaw for my bench vise. That is, to rout a relief that is long, wide and deep enough in one face of the bench vise jaw, so it fits over the outer jaw of the metal vise.

The wooden jaw is a long one, about 25 inches.

What are your ideas on a jig to set stops at both ends?

And how on EARTH do you control and collect dust on a cut that isn't a through cut, or along one edge?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 10:18 PM
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If I understand correctly, you want a "sleeve" that fits over your metal vise jaw (and it's "weird" shape), made out of wood.

One crude but effective technique is to build a "box" out of 5 pieces of wood (essentially a box with a bottom, turned upside down). A more sophisticated method that would make the "box" better match the shape of a non-square vise but one that (from my knowledge) would be limited to about 3" of "recess" would be to make a template and use a bowl-cutter kit, like the picture attached.

If you have large guide bushings for your router and don't want their bowl templates, you may be able to save some $$$ buying the bowl bit and bit extender separately.

Bowl and Tray Template Kit

Is this the kind of thing you're looking for?
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 06:25 AM Thread Starter
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I've been trying to figure out how to describe what I mean, and my usual eloquence is failing me. I may draw a simple picture, and post that--

All I want to do is take a flat board, and cut a relief in it, about half the thickness of the board, such that it only daylights on one long side of the board.

The board is 24x6x1, and the relief is 9x3x1/2, and is centered on one long edge, tight to that one edge.

Does that help?

My problem is that 24", when you move it 9 inches down a fence, one end or the other moves off the fence, so I can't see how to fix a stop at both ends.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 06:26 AM Thread Starter
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I have an idea! I'll take a picture of one victim of my attempts, and post that!
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 06:31 AM
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Why not cut a piece of MDF long enough for the stops, as an auxiliary fence?

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 09:25 AM
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maybe take the router out of the table and rout it face up with stop blocks clamped to the board (cut it to length afterward)
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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Oh.

Duh.

Forest, trees, can't see.

Of course!

Thanks, guys!
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-14-2010, 12:27 AM
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Please Lyle, post some pictures when you're done and explain what you did that worked well and what you'd do differently next time.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-21-2010, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, I have three pictures, and I'll see if I can get them posted.

I'm a terrible photographer, and I took these with my iPhone.

The first is the problem: how to cut this relief.
The second is the jig I ended up using on the router table, and the third is the jaw in place.

The jig is simply a block of wood screwed to a squared piece of plywood, and clamped to the tablesaw (router table) fence. It controls one direction of travel, and the tablesaw fence controls the other.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-21-2010, 07:24 PM
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Hi Lyle,

From your first photo, it looked like a LARGE hinge mortise jig would have done the trick.

Do you have template guides or bearing guided router bits?

James
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