Avoiding Tear-Out in Arched-Top Cope-and-Stick Door Machining - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 04-15-2010, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Avoiding Tear-Out in Arched-Top Cope-and-Stick Door Machining

I am making several Arch Panel Doors and am having trouble when I make the stick cut on the arch rail. If I start at the very left edge the bit grabs and ruins the piece. If I start a little to the right of the left edge and move on to the right I can cut the stick cut all the way through to the right with no problem but when I then go back and try to back into the left side cut I can get it to work if I am really careful but the bit will still grab and tear out the edge ruining the piece. Any thoughts on how to avoid that or how to feed the piece to prevent the bit from grabbing?
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 04-15-2010, 03:09 PM
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Hi Hoss

This comes about most of the time by not reading the wood grain of the wood right...
Think of it like using a hand plane on it, pushing the plane in the wrong way, it will lift the stock up and rip it out..it can be hard to see it sometimes ,just spray on some water and the grain will pop right up..

Making small cut will help that's to say more than 3 passes..(using over size bearing)

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Originally Posted by Hoss McGr View Post
I am making several Arch Panel Doors and am having trouble when I make the stick cut on the arch rail. If I start at the very left edge the bit grabs and ruins the piece. If I start a little to the right of the left edge and move on to the right I can cut the stick cut all the way through to the right with no problem but when I then go back and try to back into the left side cut I can get it to work if I am really careful but the bit will still grab and tear out the edge ruining the piece. Any thoughts on how to avoid that or how to feed the piece to prevent the bit from grabbing?



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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 06:18 AM
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Use spiral up-cut bits instead of a standard straight-cut 2 flute. And as bob said, be modest with your depth. I never take more than 1/2" at a pass in softwoods (D.Fir). If you do a lot of these, make yourself a trammel jig, they are much more stable than simple pattern copying and you can adjust the radius infinitely.
I'l post some picts of mine after work.

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