Router Table Plate Leveling Adjustment - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-01-2010, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
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Question Router Table Plate Leveling Adjustment

I'm building my own router table and making my own plate. I'd like to hear some discussion on which is the better plate leveling adjustment; under table, above table, using magnets, hold down screws, etc.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-01-2010, 08:24 AM
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Robert,

My table saw zero clearance inserts I level with nylon allen head set screws, using the same points as the factory inserts.

My Router table is the Oak Park system, and all I have needed to level it out is a small piece of clear packing tape in one corner to shim it up just a bit so the stock wouldn't catch as it transitioned back onto the table.

Simple works for me.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-01-2010, 04:38 PM
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Default Kreg router insert plate levelers

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Originally Posted by oldhippie1951 View Post
I'm building my own router table and making my own plate. I'd like to hear some discussion on which is the better plate leveling adjustment; under table, above table, using magnets, hold down screws, etc.
I like the Kreg insert plate levelers. They work with most (any) insert plate out there. I installed these in a shop-built router table a few weeks ago, and love it. You just create an opening in the table top that is the size of your insert plate, and install these under the table. There are a total of eight leveling screws (two per leveler) and you use these to get your router insert plate perfectly flush with the table top.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-01-2010, 06:02 PM
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Default level and heft

You might give some thought to the weight of the plate, lift (if any), and the router, too. Some systems are OK for smaller routers, but may be on the wimpy side for heavier rigs.

When I made a new top (two sheets of 3/4" phenolic BB ply, laminated with contact cement) for a BenchDog Pro lift and PC 7518 router, I used threaded brass inserts, one on either side of each corner, with machine screws and lock nuts on the bottom side of the table top. The inserts were drilled into the 3/8" wide rabbet that fits the cast plate of the lift.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-01-2010, 06:29 PM
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Here I go one more time pushing the HF plate

It's setup with 4 set screws to adjust the plate no need to had anything, just cut the hole and drop the plate in place than just adjust the set screws in the corners and your done, no need to put any brass in place or corner brackets...why make the job harder than it needs to be.. the KISS way...

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 04:17 PM
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Here I go again promoting the Oak-Park system. The opening in the router table is of even depth all way around and the palte is of uniform thickness. The depth of the opening lip matches the thickness of the plate, so no leveling apparatus is needed. There is however a problem with saw(router?)dust so everytime the the router is lifted out or a change of plate is made the table opening lip needs to be cleaned. While set screws, threaded inserts, etc. the area that would need to be cleaned is less, these systems would not be immune to the sawdust problem. How much time is involved in adjusting the set screws, inserts, etc.?

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 07:04 PM
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And the HF plate is no longer available, as I found out when I went buy one.
Bought the cheap one from Hartville Tool for my 1 HP foldup table and it has just about the same leveling adjustment as the HF did and is working fine fo a small router. I wouldn't use this plate for a large router, best to spend more and get a good one than to even try it with a heavy tool.
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