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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-24-2010, 01:53 AM Thread Starter
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Default Milescraft Base Plate

Can I mount my Milescraft Base Plate to a router table?
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-24-2010, 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by wescox007 View Post
Can I mount my Milescraft Base Plate to a router table?
Hi - I'm not sure what your objective would be to do that, but I would advise against it. I don't think it is robust enough to support the weight of the router. Can it be done? probably, just route a rabbet and drop it in. Should it be done? probably not.

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-24-2010, 04:27 AM
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I agree! That was not the way the plate was meant to be used. It is a freehand plate.

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-24-2010, 07:02 AM
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HI

YES, it's 3/8" thick the one below is 1/4" thick..
The one below is a PC base plate that is 6" OD but I would suggest using the 7" OD Milescraft plate, many of the routers will work with it if you remove the handles on the router after all you don't need them in the router table the norm..will the Milescraft plate support the router YES ,it gets a harder work out in the hand router mode, just need to think about it little bit...

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Originally Posted by wescox007 View Post
Can I mount my Milescraft Base Plate to a router table?


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Last edited by bobj3; 11-24-2010 at 07:17 AM.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-24-2010, 08:20 AM
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I tend to agree with John on this one. Although it is well established that I am a rank amateur here, I don't get what the point would be? Surely I am missing something. I expect Bob3 to be correct but why the effort?
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-24-2010, 08:31 AM
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Hi Warren

Just my 2 cents,,some don't want to cut out that big hole for a 9" x 12" plate out of the table top, that's great deal of stock and support from the top, I have seen many just bolt the router right to the top with a 2" hole for the bit to stick out with the Milescraft plate they have a way to use the guides and a way choke the hole down..plus they don't lose the height of the bit..



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I tend to agree with John on this one. Although it is well established that I am a rank amateur here, I don't get what the point would be? Surely I am missing something. I expect Bob3 to be correct but why the effort?



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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-24-2010, 11:36 AM
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Default Hmmmming birds

Yep, this is one for the Hmmmming birds.

If any projections (handle stubs, etc.) of the router fall inside the 7" diameter of the Milescraft base plate by 3/8" to 1/2" (enough to allow a reasonable support lip in the table), why not take advantage of the base plate's features? At worst, the weight of the router might flex the base plate a bit, causing the center to drop by some small amount. But, that can be tested and measured.

It might not be as convenient as a lift that allows above-table bit changes, but otherwise it's analogous to using a conventional router-table plate, just a round one instead of rectangular.

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-24-2010, 11:49 AM
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I can see advantages to using the Milescraft plate in the table, biggest one I see would be centering and swapping bushings. The plate Bj pictured looks to be phenolic though and I think the Milescraft is acrylic. While the plate is 3/8", it is much thinner around the mounting screws. I would be concerned with the plate cracking in that area especially with a tank. Just some random thoughts from a wandering mind.

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-24-2010, 11:51 AM
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Hi

You don't need a big lip to support the router a 1/8" to 1/4" lip will do the job it's very hard to flex 1/4" to 3/8" thick plastic after all it's only holding 15 lbs. the norm or less..the table top is doing most of the work by supporting the stock..

Many routers are 6" OD the norm some of the big tank routers are a little bit bigger but not by much..

here's one that's round and a great way to mount the tank routers..and not take off the handles..it's 50.oo bucks and the Milescraft plate is only 20.oo bucks..
Just a note ,,,this is the one that got me going to make one for my router table..but not the same way the router I used was only 5 lbs.

Veritas® Base Plate/Table Insert - Lee Valley Tools

http://www.leevalley.com/en/shopping...s.aspx?p=40702
=========

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph Barker View Post
Yep, this is one for the Hmmmming birds.

If any projections (handle stubs, etc.) of the router fall inside the 7" diameter of the Milescraft base plate by 3/8" to 1/2" (enough to allow a reasonable support lip in the table), why not take advantage of the base plate's features? At worst, the weight of the router might flex the base plate a bit, causing the center to drop by some small amount. But, that can be tested and measured.

It might not be as convenient as a lift that allows above-table bit changes, but otherwise it's analogous to using a conventional router-table plate, just a round one instead of rectangular.



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Last edited by bobj3; 11-24-2010 at 12:02 PM.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-24-2010, 12:40 PM
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Hi John

" biggest one I see would be centering and swapping bushings "
That's one of the neat things about the Milescraft plate you can use the brass guides and it's always on center and it's always easy to get the brass ring tight than just snap it back in place and on dead center..
see below

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jschaben View Post
I can see advantages to using the Milescraft plate in the table, biggest one I see would be centering and swapping bushings. The plate Bj pictured looks to be phenolic though and I think the Milescraft is acrylic. While the plate is 3/8", it is much thinner around the mounting screws. I would be concerned with the plate cracking in that area especially with a tank. Just some random thoughts from a wandering mind.


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