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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-25-2010, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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Default Lockmiter Tearout

First time using the MLCS lockmiter bit. First, I tried on old junky ply. In the horizontal position, the cut was a qualified acceptable. The vertical cut was not even close. Tried a lot of wood including oak ply which is what I'm intending to use this bit on.

I'm running a Freud 3000 (brand new) with the MLCS lockmiter bit, also brand new. Router is running at 12K. As per the MLCS video, I took tiny bites but still no joy.

I don't know what else to do except try a different brand LM bit but I really don't want to go there.

The image shows the tearout or breakout after a third tiny pass.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Burt
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-25-2010, 10:31 PM
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Hi Burt

Try doing it one or two cuts by the bit..plywood can be nasty and it will chip out easy, the bit is made it do it in one cut but by using two you will have a real nice cut on the 2nd.one..dont't forget to use a steel/pastic ruler to set the bit on the 1st.pass many forget that small tip..and they try to take off to much on the 1st pass..

Use the stick on boards so you don't take to much on the 1st pass
see video

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...r_video_anchor

Ruler tip below
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...e_joint_anchor



=========
=========

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurt View Post
First time using the MLCS lockmiter bit. First, I tried on old junky ply. In the horizontal position, the cut was a qualified acceptable. The vertical cut was not even close. Tried a lot of wood including oak ply which is what I'm intending to use this bit on.

I'm running a Freud 3000 (brand new) with the MLCS lockmiter bit, also brand new. Router is running at 12K. As per the MLCS video, I took tiny bites but still no joy.

I don't know what else to do except try a different brand LM bit but I really don't want to go there.

The image shows the tearout or breakout after a third tiny pass.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Burt



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
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Last edited by bobj3; 12-25-2010 at 10:40 PM.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-25-2010, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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Bj,
I followed all those instructions but still had blow out. One thing I did see on other sites was to use as large a piece of wood as possible to make the joints then cut them to size on the TS after cutting. I'm thinking that the test pieces I used were too small so there was not enough bulk to press against the fence making the piece come off the fence just so slightly.

I also found that no bit is immune to this problem. It appears to be more of an operator problem then anything else. BTW, I have the MLCS setup block. My joints did line up pretty close so I'll try again. I'd hate not to be able to use this bit.

Thanks,
Burt
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-25-2010, 11:52 PM
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Hi Burt

The setup blocks are ok from MLCS but they are for 3/4" and 1/2" stock and must tweak it a little be if you use plywood because you know plywood wood is not a true 3/4" thick, I use the EZ Set from sommerfeld tools to get around that error, in that way you don't have any guess work to get it just right..and it must be set right on the dot to get it to come out right every time...

For 1/2" deep cut bits
Sommerfelds Easy Set Up Jig-Sommerfeld's Tools For Wood

for 7/16" deep cut bits
Ezset For Freud Bits-Sommerfeld's Tools For Wood

=========

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurt View Post
Bj,
I followed all those instructions but still had blow out. One thing I did see on other sites was to use as large a piece of wood as possible to make the joints then cut them to size on the TS after cutting. I'm thinking that the test pieces I used were too small so there was not enough bulk to press against the fence making the piece come off the fence just so slightly.

I also found that no bit is immune to this problem. It appears to be more of an operator problem then anything else. BTW, I have the MLCS setup block. My joints did line up pretty close so I'll try again. I'd hate not to be able to use this bit.

Thanks,
Burt



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097



Last edited by bobj3; 12-25-2010 at 11:55 PM.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-26-2010, 05:53 AM
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I use this bit. I pass long boards past the cutter, then cut to lenth on the radial arm saw. I have cut quality birch ply, other plys are poor. MDF is fine as are most hardwoods, softwoods can lose some detail. It is best to take 2 passes, so use a thin subfence, and when you get the feed and speed right, you should be fine.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-26-2010, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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Mike,
Would that be baltic birch or home depot birch? The ply I'm cutting is red oak from home depot. Dados come out fine and the horizontal cut on the LM bit also comes out fine. It's the vertical cut that is making me crazy.

Burt
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-26-2010, 10:41 AM
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Quality Baltic Birch, no voids. Make sure the outer grain is aligned with the fence otherwise you will splinter along the end grain.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-26-2010, 10:47 AM
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Hi Burt,
Add some feather boards to help keep material against fence.

James
Whittier, CA.

Have a nice & safe day!
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-26-2010, 03:34 PM
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Zurt,
Something else you might consider: since your horizontal cuts are "acceptable" it may be that gravity is not your friend on the vertical cuts. The weight of the vertical piece is being carried on a knife edge after the cut. One solution is to clamp a "runner" onto the workpiece that rides on the top of the fence and carries the weight of the workpiece. You may also improve the the quality of the horizontal cut by clamping a runner on that piece that follows the front edge of the table. These tips are explained graphically in the MLCS handbook. The one I have is quite old and suggests temporarily attaching a scrap piece to the workpiece with double sided tape on the face whose edge will ride on the fence or the table. In either case the idea is to relieve the pressure on the "knife edge" and stabilize the cut edge.The quality of the plywood is a huge factor and HD offerings are not the best. James' suggestion to use featherboards is spot on. Hope this helps,
Regis
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-26-2010, 04:04 PM
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Hi

If all else falls the jig below will do the vert. cut easy..and right on the button.

========



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"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097



Last edited by bobj3; 12-26-2010 at 04:14 PM.
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