Lift Top Router Table ? - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Default Lift Top Router Table ?

Has anyone used the plans for Bill Hylton's Lift-Top Router Table? As shown his new edition of Woodworking with the Router?

This bending and stooping to unclamp or switch bits in my Milwaukee 5616 is getting real old fast! And it's dark down there. And scary!

Current table is a homemade cabinet with WoodHaven top and fence.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 10:01 PM
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I didn't use any plans for my homemade cabinet and top but I did hinge it at the back with a piano hinge so the top will tip back.. I have a DeWalt 618 with both fixed and plunge bases. Yes it makes it sooo much easier to remove the router and use it freehand.

Fixing to leave for a couple days but will get some pictures and post upon my return.

Have a great New Year

Ron
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-02-2011, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garycurtis View Post
Has anyone used the plans for Bill Hylton's Lift-Top Router Table? As shown his new edition of Woodworking with the Router?

This bending and stooping to unclamp or switch bits in my Milwaukee 5616 is getting real old fast! And it's dark down there. And scary!

Current table is a homemade cabinet with WoodHaven top and fence.

LOL. Plus, you never know what sort of monsters might be lurking down there!

When I had a mid-sized router in my old table, the plate had two 1/4-20 tapped holes near the edges. I used a pair of bolts with fender washers attached to lift the plate and router to the top of the table to make adjustments. I found that easier than trying to measure with the rule in the dark. I'll admit that I was afraid to look down into that dark hole, however.

For a flip-top table top to be practical, it seems to me that the operator's back needs to be strong enough to deal with the combined weight. Then, there's the issue of the router and plate slipping from the hole if it isn't secured.

With my new table and larger, heavier router, I opted to go with a lift.

- Ralph
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 04:41 PM
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Default Lift Top Router Table

Hey Gary

Here are the pictures of the hinge at the rear of table, the router lift that I use, and pictures of the table both open and closed (note that table is not complete at this time). The lift makes it very easy to change bits and other adjustments but the lift top makes it easier to take router out for use with my bases. Another benefit of the lift top is the router compartment does not have to have a door in it, the top is the door. I personally think that dust collection is at a premium this way -- less leakage.

If you have any question just fire away and I will answer to the best of my ability

Ron
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the photos and description. My cabinet is built and ready to go. Since my router is a fixed base, I can get around not having a lift because the Milwaukee comes with a T Wrench. Bit adjustment can be done from above.

But first you must go through a little routine, of unclamping the motor. And changing bits isn't fun. I wanted to avoid the lift because of the extra weight hanging from the top and possible distortion. I'm curious ó what material did you use for the top?

And I agree with your approach to dust collection.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 07:25 AM
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It is a 1" thick piece of MDF with Laminate on both sides making it 1 and 1/8" thick. For the life of me I can't remember where I got it. I do remember that when I ordered the lift, I ordered the matching templete to route out the top. That lift doesn't weigh all that much and the top is supported very well just by the nature of the cabinet. If the newer lift with the adjustment off to the side had been available back then, I'm not sure my top would lift or not. I guess I should take the time to make the drawers and quit stuffing everything in the openings on the cabinet. It's only been two years since the build. I have way too many irons in the fire since retirement.

Ron
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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You mention a new lift that is off to the side. Are you speaking of the Sidewinder? With the above-table T-Handle on mine, I should be ok. But with no top as yet, I haven't tried the mechanism and I may find it unsatisfactory.

Bill Hylton's book and this forum are my only exposure to table routing. I've been studying the book for a year now. Sound proofing is a big issue with me, so I bought some expensive rubber foam industrial baffling and lined the many surfaces with it. It is thin stuff.

I have already rigged a under-dash light there and it will be rigged to a push switch that triggers when the top is lifted. I bought a bunch of that Russian 1" plywood and will laminate both sides and use it for the top.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 10:20 PM
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Yes, it is the Sidewinder but not sure a person would have enough travel in the adjuster cable for a lift top table. A piece of that 1" ply should make for a flat, solid top. A light will come on when you lift the top --- what a neat idea and sound proofing too --hummmm Man I can't hardly wait to see pictures of your table. I would wonder what all that dust will do to the foam though but if it reduces sound even a little bit it is well worth the effort.

Now I remember where I got my top from -- it was part of the left over material that a guy made a cutting table out of. He made car interiors, headliners and such and needed a bigger table.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-06-2011, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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That makes sense about the Sidewinder cable being too short. The sound insulation I use is high density foam. It isn't a magnet for dust or debris.

For about a half year, I'm living at my main home so the shop is 600 miles to the north. Almost at the Oregon border. And I don't have a digital camera to take shots. Perhaps if somebody has that late edition of Bill Hylton's router book, they could post a photo of his table. Mine is at the stage where the base is complete, including drawers and wiring. The top has to be constructed.

I'm using the WoodHaven fence which mounts with clamping arms on both ends.
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