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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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Default Norm's Router Table

Just got the DVD and plans. One thing that concerns me is the HLP of only the top piece. Everything I've read to date says to laminate top and bottom. I have two pieces of 3/4" MDF already glued just waiting for a trim and HLP treatment.

What are your thoughts on just putting the HLP on the top? I have a 48x96 piece of Wilsonart.

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Burt
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 06:32 PM
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Every table top plan calls to laminating both top and bottom. This to prevent mositure intrusion from the bottom.

Don Jeansonne
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 09:30 PM
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I also support the idea of laminating both surfaces. Then, you're sure that there won't be a difference in moisture content.

- Ralph
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 06:24 PM
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I know why it's recommended, but I've been running mine no problem with lam on the top only, 2 1/2 years. It's a 3/4 + 1/2 MDF sandwich, and I live in a VERY wet climate.

If you have enough for both sides, it's probably the best insurance for flat for life.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 06:54 PM
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Hi

" laminating both surfaces " = it's not needed if the cabinet is built right, the cabinet will support the top..it can be a wet rag and the cabinet will do the job..

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 06:52 PM
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Default reasons for laminating the top

I had started gluing up 2 layers of 3/4" MDF for a table top. I got side tracked and couldn't finish so I put it up for a while (almost a year). When I finally got back to start putting the oak trim banding, the top was not flat. The front was flat but the back side had a 1/16" sag on both outer edges. I sanded it flat before adding the edging but after attaching the edging it was again off because I cut the edge strips a hair less than the 1 1/2" thickness of the top. I just could not recover to my satisfaction so I gave up and bought a top from Rockler that was on sale.

The point I am trying to make is that MDF will move, swell, whatever if you don't wrap it up tight. I believe that you can't be too cautious and should laminate both sides and soon after gluing up the layers.

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 07:08 PM
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Hi

The router table below is now 5+ years old and it dead flat ( 2ea. 3/4" MDF with Johnson Paste Wax on it..) the base cabinet is the key or to say how it's held in place. if I recall with 12 drywall screws into the bottom of the top.


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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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Bob J,
It appears that your top is not laminated at all. True? My top is already glued and just waiting for me to do something (like trim it to size). I also have a roll of Wilsonart 4'x8' just sitting there.

So, are you saying lam one side, lam no sides, lam both sides, do whatever?

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 10:01 PM
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Hi Burt

"Do do whatever", if you have it on hand use it but it's not needed just one more thing to bow/lift up and in time some do...I have a top in the back room that the edges are coming up..and only after 3 years..that's why many rap the edges with wood to keep it from lifting up..the edges are the weak point for most laminated tops..

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Originally Posted by Zurt View Post
Bob J,
It appears that your top is not laminated at all. True? My top is already glued and just waiting for me to do something (like trim it to size). I also have a roll of Wilsonart 4'x8' just sitting there.

So, are you saying lam one side, lam no sides, lam both sides, do whatever?

Burt



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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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Interesting about your edges. In Norm's DVD, he biscuits the edges. Initially, I thought that was a bit overkill but he did say his first table was over 8 years old so I may opt for that method as well.

On the other hand, any table I build will outlast me. Ain't no spring chicken no mo'.

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