Cutting a slot in the middle of a board - Router Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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Default Cutting a slot in the middle of a board

I need to cut a slot about 1" wide in a board that is 9"x5"x3/8". I put stops on both ends of the fence and dropped the board onto the bit, which is a Whiteside straight 3/8". First cut went fine with no problems. Then, I wasn't sure what to do so I moved the fence back 3/8" and put a 3/8" board between the slotted board and the fence so that the bit would be in the original slot.

Turned the router on and removed the backing board. Cut OK for a few seconds then the board shattered. Don't know what happened but I think my methodology was at fault.

I just created a new board for slotting but I'd like to hear some opinions on how to go about this.

BTW, the slot goes thru the board but has an 1" of wood on either end. I'm trying to make a tissue box cover. This is the top piece.

Thanks,
Burt
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurt View Post
I need to cut a slot about 1" wide in a board that is 9"x5"x3/8". I put stops on both ends of the fence and dropped the board onto the bit, which is a Whiteside straight 3/8". First cut went fine with no problems. Then, I wasn't sure what to do so I moved the fence back 3/8" and put a 3/8" board between the slotted board and the fence so that the bit would be in the original slot.

Turned the router on and removed the backing board. Cut OK for a few seconds then the board shattered. Don't know what happened but I think my methodology was at fault.

I just created a new board for slotting but I'd like to hear some opinions on how to go about this.

BTW, the slot goes thru the board but has an 1" of wood on either end. I'm trying to make a tissue box cover. This is the top piece.

Thanks,
Burt

WOW. That could have been fun.......not.

You were not back routing on the second cut?

James
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 07:29 PM
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Hi Burt

Sounds like a job for the ski jig, the safe way..
Here's a little trick if you don't have a ski jig, drill out all you can 1st.
Than all you need to do is remove the tips..with a nice skew trim bit.

Spiral Flush Trim Router Bit,
The bearing on the bit is just use to zero out the bit to the router table fence. go one way and than power down and flip it around and do the same thing with your stop blocks in place.

5099 1/4" 1" 1/4" $29.95
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ushtrim_anchor

======

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurt View Post
I need to cut a slot about 1" wide in a board that is 9"x5"x3/8". I put stops on both ends of the fence and dropped the board onto the bit, which is a Whiteside straight 3/8". First cut went fine with no problems. Then, I wasn't sure what to do so I moved the fence back 3/8" and put a 3/8" board between the slotted board and the fence so that the bit would be in the original slot.

Turned the router on and removed the backing board. Cut OK for a few seconds then the board shattered. Don't know what happened but I think my methodology was at fault.

I just created a new board for slotting but I'd like to hear some opinions on how to go about this.

BTW, the slot goes thru the board but has an 1" of wood on either end. I'm trying to make a tissue box cover. This is the top piece.

Thanks,
Burt



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Last edited by bobj3; 01-10-2011 at 07:43 PM.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurt View Post
I need to cut a slot about 1" wide in a board that is 9"x5"x3/8". I put stops on both ends of the fence and dropped the board onto the bit, which is a Whiteside straight 3/8". First cut went fine with no problems. Then, I wasn't sure what to do so I moved the fence back 3/8" and put a 3/8" board between the slotted board and the fence so that the bit would be in the original slot.

Turned the router on and removed the backing board. Cut OK for a few seconds then the board shattered. Don't know what happened but I think my methodology was at fault.

I just created a new board for slotting but I'd like to hear some opinions on how to go about this.

BTW, the slot goes thru the board but has an 1" of wood on either end. I'm trying to make a tissue box cover. This is the top piece.

Thanks,
Burt
I think you were trying to take to much off the second pass. If I am picturing it right, you had the bit on the right side of the cut.
My experience has been doing slots on a table is scary at best and goes downhill from there
Bj suggests skiis which work great. I'd just clamp the stock on a cam board and stick a couple of strips of MDF where you want the slot and hand route it with a bushing. Put two strips along where you want the slot, 1-1/4" apart, use a 1/2" bit with a 3/4" guide bush and plow it out.
Just another way of doin it.

John Schaben

The problem with experience is I usually get it immediately after I need it.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 10:51 PM
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Or, you could make a template for use with a guide bushing to cut the 3/8" slot, with a wider grab-the-tissue area in the center.

Or, you could . . . or, you could . . .

- Ralph
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurt View Post
I need to cut a slot about 1" wide in a board that is 9"x5"x3/8". I put stops on both ends of the fence and dropped the board onto the bit, which is a Whiteside straight 3/8". First cut went fine with no problems. Then, I wasn't sure what to do so I moved the fence back 3/8" and put a 3/8" board between the slotted board and the fence so that the bit would be in the original slot.

Turned the router on and removed the backing board. Cut OK for a few seconds then the board shattered. Don't know what happened but I think my methodology was at fault.

I just created a new board for slotting but I'd like to hear some opinions on how to go about this.

BTW, the slot goes thru the board but has an 1" of wood on either end. I'm trying to make a tissue box cover. This is the top piece.

Thanks,
Burt
These shots taken from earlier demonstrations may give you a couple of more ideas, only needing slight modification.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 08:15 AM
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hi

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 08:19 AM
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I wish Bob, out of my league I'm afraid.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 08:33 AM
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Hi Harry

hahahahahaha

Right up your alley, box joint,dovetail joint,and template job all done with the OP/ RWS 3/8" box jig so to speak

202 - Tissue Box Cover:
Order via E-Plan
http://www.routerworkshop.com/S200.html
========

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I wish Bob, out of my league I'm afraid.



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

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Last edited by bobj3; 01-11-2011 at 09:01 AM.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 09:20 AM
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Burt, what is the power rating of your router? What kind of wood did you use? Did you cutting with the grain or cross grain? If you cut with the grain, what is left is at its weakest, and the vibration from the router would explain the "explosion". If you do not have skis, and I would be very surprised if you do, make the cut with a hand-held router using a template and guide bushing, as Harry's pictures show. If you do not have guide bushings you can also set up guide boards against which you move the router as you make the cut. 3/8 inch is not too deep to make in one cut so if you have the workpiece elevated above the table, as Harry's pictures show. If the workpiece is held securely in place there should be no problem with the cut.

Havng been a devoted viewer of the Router Workshop, (they now show more Sewing with Nancy) I have seen several times how the box shown by Bobj3 is made.

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Last edited by TWheels; 01-11-2011 at 09:45 AM.
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