Miter channel or no miter channel? - Router Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
30coupe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Country: United States
First Name: Russ
Posts: 59
 
Default Miter channel or no miter channel?

Okay, I'm about to build a router table. I like the plans for Norms with the drawer and so forth, but I also looked at one at Woodworking. org that looks pretty nice, although it is way bigger than I would want. Norm's has a miter channel and T-slots for the fence. The Woodworking one has neither. I like the fence system on the latter one, the clamp part anyway, and may go that route. My experience with T-slots on the last table I built was that they tend to fill up with sawdust and become a pain to adjust, so I like the idea of no T-slots.

Now, for my question: should I put in a miter channel or not? I've never had one without, so I don't know if I'd like it or not. I suppose I could build without, then add it later if I thought I had to have it, but I'd kind of like to know the pluses and minuses before I begin.

Let the opinions rain down, guys!

Thanks!
30coupe is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 06:22 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Country: United States
First Name: John
Posts: 3,046
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 30coupe View Post
Okay, I'm about to build a router table. I like the plans for Norms with the drawer and so forth, but I also looked at one at Woodworking. org that looks pretty nice, although it is way bigger than I would want. Norm's has a miter channel and T-slots for the fence. The Woodworking one has neither. I like the fence system on the latter one, the clamp part anyway, and may go that route. My experience with T-slots on the last table I built was that they tend to fill up with sawdust and become a pain to adjust, so I like the idea of no T-slots.

Now, for my question: should I put in a miter channel or not? I've never had one without, so I don't know if I'd like it or not. I suppose I could build without, then add it later if I thought I had to have it, but I'd kind of like to know the pluses and minuses before I begin.

Let the opinions rain down, guys!

Thanks!
Hi Russ - Welcome to the forum
Like you said, you can always put one in - takin one out?.. maybe not so easy.

John Schaben

The problem with experience is I usually get it immediately after I need it.
jschaben is offline  
post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 06:30 PM
Forum Contributor
 
xplorx4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Country: United States
First Name: Jerry
Posts: 10,671
 
Default

I have one and use it from time to time, well maybe just a couple times in two year. I will probably put one in again when I re-do my top.

Wisdom: Where experience and knowledge combine and become one.

"We are all one decision away from Stupid!!"

Lamentations 3:22-23

"How often we sacrifice the permanent plans of God on the altar of immediate solutions"

I have a very good memory, just short is all.
xplorx4 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 06:45 PM
Registered User
 
Ralph Barker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Country: United States
First Name: Ralph
Posts: 2,001
 
Default

I put a combo miter/T-Track strip in my table, along with T-Tracks in the fence face. I use both horizontal and vertical feather boards often, so they both come in handy.

- Ralph
Ralph Barker is offline  
post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 09:57 PM
Registered User
 
Gene Howe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Country: United States
First Name: Gene
Posts: 10,557
 
Default

My RT fence is made from extruded aluminum with t track on the top and face as part of the extrusion. Great for feather boards.
As to the table, no t track or miter track. I still use feather boards. I just clamp them to the table.
As far as operations normally aided by a miter gauge (coping, etc) I use sleds that ride against the fence.
With a miter gauge in a track used for coping, the fence must be absolutely parallel to the track. My router fence seldom is and I'm too lazy to make it so each time I cope a frame.

Gene Howe
Snowflake, AZ

'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you and make for a friendlier forum.
Gene Howe is online now  
post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 10:20 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Country: United States
First Name: Bj
Posts: 23,786
       
Default

HI

Just a note about the coping sled ,,,it doesn't need to be absolutely parallel to the fence, here's a little trick,,once you zero out the bearing on the bit move the fence back just a little bit say about 1/16" back, the bearing on the bit will keep it just right...many do like to use the coping sled to be safe..with a piece of laminate as a gauge you can just slide the stock up to the fence and lock the stock in place and than just pull it out b/4 making the pass..

I do it all the time with short/small parts ..

==========

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene Howe View Post
My RT fence is made from extruded aluminum with t track on the top and face as part of the extrusion. Great for feather boards.
As to the table, no t track or miter track. I still use feather boards. I just clamp them to the table.
As far as operations normally aided by a miter gauge (coping, etc) I use sleds that ride against the fence.
With a miter gauge in a track used for coping, the fence must be absolutely parallel to the track. My router fence seldom is and I'm too lazy to make it so each time I cope a frame.


Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	505.jpg
Views:	113
Size:	54.4 KB
ID:	40624  

Click image for larger version

Name:	507.jpg
Views:	108
Size:	48.0 KB
ID:	40625  

Click image for larger version

Name:	1285.jpg
Views:	113
Size:	30.5 KB
ID:	40626  

Click image for larger version

Name:	1286.jpg
Views:	127
Size:	33.2 KB
ID:	40627  


"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097



Last edited by bobj3; 01-11-2011 at 10:57 PM.
bobj3 is offline  
post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
30coupe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Country: United States
First Name: Russ
Posts: 59
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
HI

Just a note about the coping sled ,,,it doesn't need to be absolutely parallel to the fence, here's a little trick,,once you zero out the bearing on the bit move the fence back just a little bit say about 1/16" back, the bearing on the bit will keep it just right...many do like to use the coping sled to be safe..with a piece of laminate as a gauge you can just slide the stock up to the fence and lock the stock in place and than just pull it out b/4 making the pass..

I do it all the time with short/small parts ..

==========
Wow, do I have a lot to learn here. I have no idea what you just said.

I don't have, nor do I know how to use a coping sled. I'm afraid your pictures didn't help me much. Where is your router bit? Does the sled slide against the fence?


I made a box jig similar to the one Steve Maskery made, but due to the crappy surface of my aluminum Craftsman router table. I had to modify it by adding a piece of hardboard for the sled. It worked, sort of. I still need to make some mods so I can adjust it more precisely. I may end up with something like the Oak Park ones, though I'll probably make my own. Then I wouldn't need the miter channel.

Thanks, guys. Keep the suggestions coming.
30coupe is offline  
post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-12-2011, 03:06 AM
Registered User
 
Mike Wingate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Country: United Kingdom
First Name: mike
Posts: 1,124
 
Send a message via MSN to Mike Wingate
Default

In a cast iron table, yes. In a wood composite table, no. The mitre groove will weaken the table and may cause it to distort.
Mike Wingate is offline  
post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-12-2011, 05:19 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Country: United States
First Name: N/a
Posts: 182
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Wingate View Post
In a cast iron table, yes. In a wood composite table, no. The mitre groove will weaken the table and may cause it to distort.
I generally agree with this depending on how thick the top is and how well it is braced from the bottom.

I have a phenolic top (3/4" thick) without a miter channel and it is kind of a pain not to have something to easily attach feather boards to.
Tempest is offline  
post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-12-2011, 07:31 PM
Registered User
 
Cassandra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Country: Canada
First Name: Cassandra
Posts: 787
 
Default

Hi Russ:

Welcome to the Router Forums!

A miter track is purely optional and a matter of personal choice. Some like the facility of using a miter track. Others (like me) don't have them and do okay without them. One can easily do the same tasks, albeit maybe slightly differently, without the miter track.

Cassandra
Cassandra is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
For Sale: Ridgid 12" sliding miter saw - USED, works dovetail_65 Woodworking Classifieds 11 01-20-2011 11:28 PM
T-Track vs. Miter Channel Paul3624 Table-mounted Routing 12 05-12-2010 10:25 AM
Bosch 5412L 12" Dual Compound Sliding Miter Saw and T4B Folding Stand Combo CanuckGal Tool Reviews 8 07-24-2009 01:19 PM
Sliding Miter Saw - should I purchase? FinsLeftRight Tools and Woodworking 12 04-12-2009 01:01 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome