Took the new router table top for a spin. - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-25-2011, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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Default Took the new router table top for a spin.

Last night I needed to make 1/2" dado cuts in three pieces of melamine coated shelving material. Two of the pieces were 26" x 36" and one was 16 1/2" x 36". Since it is so much easier and quicker to stick a 1/2" bit in the router than it is to set up the dado set in the table saw, I opted to try out the new router table, even though only the top is finished. Since the dadoes were across the narrow dimension and were about 12" from one end, I had to set my fence up to the left of the router table. That meant feeding the stock from the back of the saw table to the front. The dadoes ended up perfect and having the huge table to hold the 3/4" melamine, which is pretty hefty, made it a snap.

The only downside is not having the start/stop switch on the backside of the table. I haven't quite worked out how to solve this one. For operations that will allow the fence to be to the right of the router (as I'm facing the table saw) this won't be a problem as the switch will be easily accessible.

Any bright ideas?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-25-2011, 06:08 PM
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Last night I needed to make 1/2" dado cuts in three pieces of melamine coated shelving material. Two of the pieces were 26" x 36" and one was 16 1/2" x 36". Since it is so much easier and quicker to stick a 1/2" bit in the router than it is to set up the dado set in the table saw, I opted to try out the new router table, even though only the top is finished. Since the dadoes were across the narrow dimension and were about 12" from one end, I had to set my fence up to the left of the router table. That meant feeding the stock from the back of the saw table to the front. The dadoes ended up perfect and having the huge table to hold the 3/4" melamine, which is pretty hefty, made it a snap.

The only downside is not having the start/stop switch on the backside of the table. I haven't quite worked out how to solve this one. For operations that will allow the fence to be to the right of the router (as I'm facing the table saw) this won't be a problem as the switch will be easily accessible.

Any bright ideas?
Well, using 3 and 4 way switches you can have any number of switches any where you want them. I doubt they are available in Paddle switches though.

John Schaben

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-25-2011, 06:34 PM
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Hi

I use a dead man switch on one of my tables, works very well..when I'm running stock that I must keep my hand on the stock, other times I use the switch on the side of the cabinet, right next to the plug for the router.. I always PULL The Plug for the router when I'm setting it up or changing bits..that's hard to do with the BIG red button type.


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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-25-2011, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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Well, using 3 and 4 way switches you can have any number of switches any where you want them. I doubt they are available in Paddle switches though.
I think you gave me an idea, John. I have the switch off of my old router table. I can mount that on the back of the table saw and use it as a master switch, routing power through it and then into the router table cabinet and into the slap switch on the cabinet. I know it sounds kind of odd, but it would allow me to cut the power from the back of the table saw on those few occasions when I have to run long stock from that side. Mounting it back there shouldn't be difficult.

Bob, unplugging the router won't be a problem. I'm not going to plug it directly into the safety switch. Rather, it will plug into an outlet which is attached to the safety switch. Like you, I don't necessarily trust switches. It will be inside the cabinet. Another will be on the back of the cabinet for the shop vac. There are two outlets on the back of the old router table switch (now the master switch). Since they will be hot most of the time. One will serve as an outlet for my swing arm lamp. Yup, this thing is coming together.

Thanks, guys!

Russ
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-25-2011, 09:44 PM
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Hi Russ - I think I like your idea better. With 3 and 4 way switches, it can be turned on or off from any switch. Your way it can only be turned on if All the switches are on but any one of them can shut it off.. I like it

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-26-2011, 10:05 AM
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The only trouble with using 3 and 4 way switches is that UP is not always ON. When you start adding multiple switches like this I prefer a magnetic contactor with start/stop buttons located wherever necessary. This way, stop is always stop, start is always start, and you get the added safety of the machine not restarting by itself when the power fails and then comes back on. There are too many accidents caused by switches that don't always work the same way when they are used to control power tools.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-26-2011, 10:40 AM
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The only trouble with using 3 and 4 way switches is that UP is not always ON. When you start adding multiple switches like this I prefer a magnetic contactor with start/stop buttons located wherever necessary. This way, stop is always stop, start is always start, and you get the added safety of the machine not restarting by itself when the power fails and then comes back on. There are too many accidents caused by switches that don't always work the same way when they are used to control power tools.

Charley
Hi Charley, that's sorta what Russ was saying, put conventional type switches in series. All switches would need to be up to turn it on, Any switch would turn it off.

No need for mag contactor other than the power interrupt situations. Problem I have with those is the failure mode seems to be in the ON position. That's just been my perception, maybe I have just heard more of those complaints because they are a bit more dramatic.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-26-2011, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Charley, that's sorta what Russ was saying, put conventional type switches in series. All switches would need to be up to turn it on, Any switch would turn it off.

No need for mag contactor other than the power interrupt situations. Problem I have with those is the failure mode seems to be in the ON position. That's just been my perception, maybe I have just heard more of those complaints because they are a bit more dramatic.
That's right. If all the switches are not on, nothing works. I'll have three switches total: the one on the router itself, the safety switch (slap off) on the router table, and another safety switch mounted on the back side of the table saw. The one on the saw will be the master, power will come in through that one. Then the safety switch on the router, and finally the router switch. Then, if I decide to use the router table in stand-alone mode, I'll still have the safety switch mounted where I want it. I already have the one mounted on the table saw...did that last night. As soon as I get the cabinet finished, the others will be ready to rock. I've been subbing all week, so not much progress in the shop.
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