Shop-Built Table Design with Phenolic Plate? - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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Default Shop-Built Table Design with Phenolic Plate?

In our university shop we currently have a out-feed/router table attached to out Grizzly cabinet saw. It's not the easiest combination to use at the moment due to the Delta overarm blade guard and absolutely ridiculous router placement in the out-feed table (why it is 24 inches to the working edge I've no idea). My new design will have a Shark Guard style dust collecting TS guard, provisions for attaching a real router fence(s) and some router table jigs and fixtures. Out current top is 3/4" MDF with high pressure laminate top. We use a PS690 with a permanently mounted 1001 style base to hold the router.

I want to build miter slots and t tracks into the top for attaching the fence and jigging (I'm set on this so don't try to sway me ) and plan on using either 1" or 1 1/8" MDF with laminate on top and bottom. This is for stability in a high use environment and support for the tracks.

What I need help deciding is, to attach the 1001 base to the top should I route a pocket down to say 1/2" thickness, cut a rabbet for a 1/4" phenolic/aluminum plate to bolt the base to then bolt that into the table? The goal is to recover as much of the working depth of the router as possible, not make a removable base-plate though. Routing a pocked is really simple, but I wonder about the strength. Using a phenolic or aluminum plate offers a lot for rigidity and depth recovery.

Thanks for sticking with the long post.
Trevor Walsh
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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Forgot the attachment here is a cutaway of my first thought, a router pocked for the 1001 base.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-29-2011, 04:13 AM
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If having the maximum depth of cut is your goal, then I'd go with a 1/4 inch insert plate.
Whether or not you want it removable would be up to you I guess.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-29-2011, 10:23 AM
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I agree with Gav - using an insert plate will give better depth of cut and avoid the problem of the center section sagging/cupping over time. Actually removing the plate and router is optional, of course.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-29-2011, 10:46 AM
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Most commercially sold phenolic plates are 3/8" & 1/4" for the aluminum. This is to prevent sagging over time for the heavier routers.

James
Whittier, CA.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-29-2011, 04:52 PM
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I have the Aluminium plate 1/4" glad i paid a little extra for it.

Dai
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-29-2011, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Itbeme View Post
I have the Aluminium plate 1/4" glad i paid a little extra for it.

Dai
The biggest problem with aluminum is if (when) the anodizing wears off, the bare aluminum will leave black marks on the workpiece that need to be sanded out. When that happens they can be reanodized, powder coated or even painted. I've had good luck with Krylon appliance epoxy. Keeping a good coat of wax on them will delay the process considerably not to mention making the stuff feed smoother.

John Schaben

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-29-2011, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, good points I think I'll go with something like a 1/4" phenolic plate. The mounting setup I'm thinking about won't leave much unsupported phenolic to sag, the base and MDF it's bolted to will leave less than 1/8th inch unsupported.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-30-2011, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jschaben View Post
The biggest problem with aluminum is if (when) the anodizing wears off, the bare aluminum will leave black marks on the workpiece that need to be sanded out. When that happens they can be reanodized, powder coated or even painted. I've had good luck with Krylon appliance epoxy. Keeping a good coat of wax on them will delay the process considerably not to mention making the stuff feed smoother.
I use Liberon lubricating Wax on my base and on the Table saw and Bandsaw, works great.

Dai
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 07:53 AM
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Black Sharpie or any other permanent marker is good short-term repair for scratches in anodizing.

Just try it before you tell me I'm wrong.
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