? resizing accurate router plate opening in my top. - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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Default ? resizing accurate router plate opening in my top.

I have browsed the forum for threads. I am looking for ideas on installing a new plate and lift in the router table top that is slightly shorter and a bit longer than the new plate. I have a nice top bought from peachtree a while back. The woodpecker lift and plate size is a bit dfferent than the existing opening. I need to shave about 1/4 off the back of the opening. Also, the opening is about 3/8 wider than the plate, so I need to fill in each side some. The top is 1.5 inches thick mdf with laminate on each face. My question is mainly, what is the best material to use to fill in the gaps and has anyone done a simalar resizing. If you have any pointers, my grattitude would be great. I dont want to botch the job as the materials I now have to work with took me a good while to collect. Not to mention the cost. Thank you.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 09:50 AM
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I would use hardwood strips to fill the space required and clamp a board on the table as a router fence to remove the excess material .... if you have a bit long enough for the 1 1/2" material.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 10:33 AM
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I agree with using hardwood pieces, well glued and clamped. For both strength and aesthetics, however, you might want to consider making the existing hole even larger, so you'll have an equal "field" of hardwood around the new hole. A stepped rabbet, rather than a simple butt joint, would be stronger.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 10:56 AM
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HI Doug

I will suggest using
Durham Donald Co 4Lb Wtr Putty 169 Wood Putty, just rap the plate with some clear plastic rap put the putty in place let it sit over night than take the plastic off and your done..I will say use some masking tape around the edges on the table top to keep the putty off...

Technical Details

* "DURHAM'S" WATER PUTTY
* 4 LBS, Water Putty,
* Stays Put, Will Not Shrink.
* Repairs floors, furniture, plaster, walls or woodwork. Fills cracks, knots, nail and screw holes.
* Permanently adheres in cement, plaster, stone, tile and wood.

Amazon.com: Durham Donald Co 4Lb Wtr Putty 169 Wood Putty: Home Improvement

=======

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Originally Posted by handyguy13 View Post
I have browsed the forum for threads. I am looking for ideas on installing a new plate and lift in the router table top that is slightly shorter and a bit longer than the new plate. I have a nice top bought from peachtree a while back. The woodpecker lift and plate size is a bit dfferent than the existing opening. I need to shave about 1/4 off the back of the opening. Also, the opening is about 3/8 wider than the plate, so I need to fill in each side some. The top is 1.5 inches thick mdf with laminate on each face. My question is mainly, what is the best material to use to fill in the gaps and has anyone done a simalar resizing. If you have any pointers, my grattitude would be great. I dont want to botch the job as the materials I now have to work with took me a good while to collect. Not to mention the cost. Thank you.



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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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I would use hardwood strips to fill the space required and clamp a board on the table as a router fence to remove the excess material .... if you have a bit long enough for the 1 1/2" material.
Thank you for the tip. I am trying to decide what material will work best.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Ralph Barker View Post
I agree with using hardwood pieces, well glued and clamped. For both strength and aesthetics, however, you might want to consider making the existing hole even larger, so you'll have an equal "field" of hardwood around the new hole. A stepped rabbet, rather than a simple butt joint, would be stronger.
Thank you Ralph. That is a good idea. A bit of work, but a good option.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by handyguy13 View Post
Thank you Ralph. That is a good idea. A bit of work, but a good option.
Ralph, Doug again. Been thinking about your solution. It may not be the quickest way, but perhaps a solid installation. I have to deal with the radius in the existing hole corners. Perhaps I could do as you suggest and cut my step the same all the way around, square the corners, then fill in. I have some HDP scrap that is white like the laminate top. Do you think that might be to soft of material to use? Hardwood would probably be better. More thought for sure. Thanks for the tips. Any more would be welcome.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-03-2011, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by handyguy13 View Post
Ralph, Doug again. Been thinking about your solution. It may not be the quickest way, but perhaps a solid installation. I have to deal with the radius in the existing hole corners. Perhaps I could do as you suggest and cut my step the same all the way around, square the corners, then fill in. I have some HDP scrap that is white like the laminate top. Do you think that might be to soft of material to use? Hardwood would probably be better. More thought for sure. Thanks for the tips. Any more would be welcome.
I'm not familiar with the characteristics of HDP (High Density Polyethylene?), but for the relatively narrow strips you'd be using, it might be OK. Glue may be an issue, though, since many such materials require special adhesives. One likely advantage would be dimensional stability. With hardwood, there will be seasonal expansion/contraction to consider. Not much, since the pieces would be small, but it will still be there.

I'm guessing the substrat of the existing top is MDF, with the laminate applied with contact cement. Thus, the existing top would be dimensionally stable.

Other options would include:

1. strip the laminate from the top, resize the hole with MDF pieces, and then re-laminate the top, or

2. build a new top with the required hole size.

Ultimately, #2 above may actually be the least trouble.

- Ralph
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-03-2011, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Ralph Barker View Post
I'm not familiar with the characteristics of HDP (High Density Polyethylene?), but for the relatively narrow strips you'd be using, it might be OK. Glue may be an issue, though, since many such materials require special adhesives. One likely advantage would be dimensional stability. With hardwood, there will be seasonal expansion/contraction to consider. Not much, since the pieces would be small, but it will still be there.

I'm guessing the substrat of the existing top is MDF, with the laminate applied with contact cement. Thus, the existing top would be dimensionally stable.

Other options would include:

1. strip the laminate from the top, resize the hole with MDF pieces, and then re-laminate the top, or

2. build a new top with the required hole size.

Ultimately, #2 above may actually be the least trouble.
Thanks again Ralph. I like the simplicity of the water putty idea, however it does not seem like the best one time long term solution. I have given alot of thought to your ideas and have decided I will take your advice in removing material from the back of the opening to match the space on the sides. About 3/16. Squaring up the four corners carefully. Then fabricating three pcs to fill in. Using a dense hardwood scrap. I can then make a pattern from the new plate and, hopefully, use my small router to cut my ledge out. It will look better than the putty and also give me a chance to hone skills. I appreciate your taking time to chat here. I don't know much about using this forum but hope to learn. Perhaps we will chat again. Take care.
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