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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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I had good luck using contact coment to glue the 1/2 inch melamine to the 1/2 inch baltic birch.

now would like to keep it flat by building a support for the bottom. Can I make a support and use pocket screw instead of doing what this fellow has done (used a flange then a screw). Will pocket screws hold in mdf and melamine?

I have almost no money into the table so far. I could toss it and make a new one every couple months is needed.

Thanks for any ideas.

KR
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 09:22 PM
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Neither material holds screws particularly well. I used a biscuit joiner to hold the frame to my top. Don't know if that is a option to you.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 07:25 AM
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Hi Kelly:

My router table top is comprised of two layers of 3/4" MDF glued together, then laminated top and bottom and finally attached to a brace structure.

To attach the brace structure to the MDF, which is notorious for not holding screws, I drilled and tapped holes for 1/4"-20 connector bolts. Snugging the bolts down, without over-tightening, has kept the brace in place and has kept the top secured to the brace.

This technique should work with the Baltic Birch plywood.

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 12:34 PM
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Coarse pocket screws will hold just fine. That picture shows light weight MDF which I wouldn't recommend as it's not as strong as standard weight. I always use double grind MDF (high quality) for shop fixtures as it's much stronger. It is heavier though.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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Do you know what that mdf is called so I can try to find it?

KR
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 05:22 PM
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Thumbs up using ph screws on mine

Kelly, I am using that same magazine plan as a starting point to build my table onto my contractor style saw. I remember the first thing I thought, when I first saw the plan, was "why is he using that method when PH screws would be easier, quicker and use less material???? So I am using PH screws on mine. Use the coarse thread ones, they hold great in the face of regular lumber yard MDF. Nothing holds very good in the edge, but you wont be doing that anyway, in this case.

Anyway, what is the difference between a PH screw and the drywall screws he is using? If anything, the PH screw has deeper threads, so may hold better.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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PH screws=pocket screws? You think they would hold well?

KR
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry. Long day P = pocket H = Hole hence PH

KR
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelly Rittgers View Post
Do you know what that mdf is called so I can try to find it?

KR
My favorite is Plum Creek MDF II, but there are others out there. You probably won't find this at a big box. Look for it at commercial lumber yards.

Ask for double grind MDF.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-08-2011, 12:47 AM
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Default same principle either way

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Originally Posted by Kelly Rittgers View Post
PH screws=pocket screws? You think they would hold well?

KR
No matter how you fasten a frame structure to the bottom of your table (either with flanges, as in your drawing, or with pocket-hole screws) you are still putting a screw into the face of the MDF. I have used PH screws to attach 3/4" plywood to the bottom of a 3/4" table, they went in tight with a 18V drill. If you have doubts about the screws holding just add glue, or use more screws. I didn't use glue so if I ever had to replace the top, I could reuse the frame.
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