loose levelling screws - Router Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 06:02 AM Thread Starter
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Default loose levelling screws

Newbie here. I'm happily using my PC router in my Jessem table top router table.
Only problem, the levelling screws are quick to loosen. Is there something I'm missing? I get the plate nicely levelled. Rout a bit and find the screws have backed out.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 07:43 AM
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I'm not familar with the Jessem table, but if the screws go all the way through the supports, you could put a dab of nail polish on the threads after you have it all leveled. Once it dries, it should help keep your screws from vibrating down, but be easy enough to remove should you have to readjust.

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 08:46 AM
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Well I wasn't having that problem, that I noticed yet, but my Hart Design plate, because how I have my table hinged on my cabinet (lifts up like a car hood), I had to add a couple of hold-down screws to it. When I would have the table raised, and I was inserting or removing a bit, my router and plate would jump out of place. So I added two #8 flathead screws through the plate and table, and used wing nuts under the table. I don't pull down hard, just a tad. Maybe something like that would help you too. Although, the idea of the finger nail polish might work well for your problem.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 01:28 PM
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I'm not sure of the setup on the Jessem, but my plate adjustment screws go through brass threaded inserts from the bottom of the table. To keep them in place, I simply added a washer and a lock nut, which is tightened after the adjustment is made. The lock nut creates tension between the threaded insert and the nut, so it stays in position.

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 02:12 PM
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Kinda interesting. I couldn't get two of the leveling screws started on my Incra plate. Anodizing got into them. Figured I could just chase the threads with a 1/4" tap but wasn't sure of the size, metric, whatever, so I e-mailed INCRA. Turns out they use 1/4-28 setscrews and 1/4-27 threaded holes.
Anyway, I would suggest the blue (medium strength) loctite thread locker. Don't use the red or green high strength if you ever want to adjust them again.

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 02:20 PM
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Amazon.com: Kreg PRS3040 Precision Router Table Insert Plate Levelers: Home Improvement

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks all. I chatted with a friend at work who asked why I hadn't tried backing up with nuts. Well, once I'm leveled, why not? If I have some handy, I'll try that. Otherwise, nail polish. Great idea. Should do the trick.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-08-2011, 01:34 AM
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Default I was wondering about this...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jschaben View Post
Kinda interesting. I couldn't get two of the leveling screws started on my Incra plate. Anodizing got into them. Figured I could just chase the threads with a 1/4" tap but wasn't sure of the size, metric, whatever, so I e-mailed INCRA. Turns out they use 1/4-28 setscrews and 1/4-27 threaded holes.
Anyway, I would suggest the blue (medium strength) loctite thread locker. Don't use the red or green high strength if you ever want to adjust them again.
Thanks for this info. I just today received an Incra plate and was putting the adjusting screws in and noticed they got very snug before they went in very far. I backed one out and it had slivers of aluminum on it. Since they need to protrude from the bottom I removed them and started them from the bottom, but of course with the same results. But I believe if I had threaded them all the way through from the top the hardened steel screw would have "cleaned up" the mis-matched threads in the aluminum and they would be loose. It would have been nice if the instruction sheet had made mention of this since it is a (AFAIK) unusual way of locking a thread.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-08-2011, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArTrvlr View Post
Thanks for this info. I just today received an Incra plate and was putting the adjusting screws in and noticed they got very snug before they went in very far. I backed one out and it had slivers of aluminum on it. Since they need to protrude from the bottom I removed them and started them from the bottom, but of course with the same results. But I believe if I had threaded them all the way through from the top the hardened steel screw would have "cleaned up" the mis-matched threads in the aluminum and they would be loose. It would have been nice if the instruction sheet had made mention of this since it is a (AFAIK) unusual way of locking a thread.
You're right. Those should really be installed from the bottom, drive end first and "unscrewed" through the plate until level is achieved. I have a couple that require the loctite treatment.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-09-2011, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jschaben View Post
Kinda interesting. I couldn't get two of the leveling screws started on my Incra plate. Anodizing got into them. Figured I could just chase the threads with a 1/4" tap but wasn't sure of the size, metric, whatever, so I e-mailed INCRA. Turns out they use 1/4-28 setscrews and 1/4-27 threaded holes.
Anyway, I would suggest the blue (medium strength) loctite thread locker. Don't use the red or green high strength if you ever want to adjust them again.
I am curious on what they would use to make a 1/4 x 27 tpi threaded hole.
And i like the Idea of using nail polish. I tell all my customers to use locktite (not green)
I have herd of this before I will have to check myself to make sure it works
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