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post #1 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-30-2011, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Frame and panel

I can remember seeing somewhere a calculator for working out the dimensions of the part for a frame and panel door. - rails, stiles and panel.


I believe it was in a Bob and Rick web page somewhere.

Can anyone help?

James
Sydney, Australia
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post #2 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-30-2011, 09:50 AM
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Hi James

Here's a link or two BUT you don't need one just use the magic number 4 to get ALL the dimensions you need..

Dynamic Calculators - Router Forums
http://www.routerforums.com/dynamic-...alculator.html
======
How to use the magic number of 4 ▼
Sommerfeld's Tools For Wood

Catalog Page 27 Fine-Tuning Your Rail & Stile Bits and Techniques for Perfect Joints

Catalog Page 28 Making the perfect door

Catalog Page 29 Making the perfect door continued

OR
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...el_calc_anchor
==========
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Originally Posted by jw2170 View Post
I can remember seeing somewhere a calculator for working out the dimensions of the part for a frame and panel door. - rails, stiles and panel.


I believe it was in a Bob and Rick web page somewhere.

Can anyone help?


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Last edited by bobj3; 03-30-2011 at 10:25 AM.
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post #3 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-30-2011, 10:01 AM
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Rockler sells a program for this. I have one and it works quite well.

#22771 Woodshop Calculator CD-ROM In Stock $24.99 Each


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post #4 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-30-2011, 12:35 PM
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Hi James

I plugged the formulas into an execl spreadsheet and let the computer do the work.

You are welcome to use it if you like.

In column A, plug in the width of your stiles, the length of your tenon and the expansion allowance for height and width of your panel.

Then, in column D, enter the height of the door and in column E, the width of the door.

The rest will be calculated for you.

http://myweb.cableone.net/mikec/wood/randscalc.xls

If you have any questions, please ask.

Here is the pdf that got the formulas from.

http://www.ptreeusa.com/RPD%20Instructions.pdf

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post #5 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-30-2011, 01:11 PM
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Hi James

I must say this one more time ,you Don't need a Calculator or Execl, you just need to keep the magic number 4 in your head, the real key is to use a match set of bits and once you set the 1st bit in place you don't want to move the router up or down..
You don't need a sled just just rip the parts to size after the router job is done.. if you rip your parts to 2 7/16" wide all the math is done for you..

Almost all R & P router bits cut 7/16" deep..


http://www.routerforums.com/table-mo...nel-doors.html

======




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http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

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Last edited by bobj3; 03-30-2011 at 01:29 PM.
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post #6 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-30-2011, 02:36 PM
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Hi Bob,

I know my inexperience will probably show here, but I don't understand the magic number 4 system. (I can't find it in the links.)

Also, it looks like the Summerfeld's plans restrict you to a 2.5" stile and a .5" overlay for their template to work.

The Freud formulas allow for any amount of overlay, stile width, tenon length and panel expansion amounts (depends on type of wood), just plug in your door height, width and the tenon length and all dimensions are given to you.

Mike

Last edited by mpbc48; 03-30-2011 at 03:04 PM.
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post #7 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-30-2011, 04:05 PM
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HI Mike

Marc's S. new bits cut 1/2" deep his old sets (CMT/Freud) cut 7/16" deep ) that's the neat thing about the magic number 4. it can be use on all of them.
When you mill the stock the 7/16" or 1/2" is gone to speak about because of the joint.
!/2" overlay is the standard for most hinges(overlays)

" depends on type of wood " the number 4 works on all panels, it's best to make it 1/16" smaller on the panels so it can float just a little bit..

No math needed just the magic number -4 on the parts,,
Once you know the opening or overlay you want, take the -4 to them and they will fit every time...the rails are the only part that you need the 4 on ,the stiles are always cut to the right size ,with the overlay added on 19" tall door would be 20" tall stiles..
But always start with 5" or 6" wide stock, do the mill work and than rip all the stock to 2 7/16" wide, than you end up with all 4 parts for the door..the panel needs the magic number 4 on all sides so it can fit right in the door parts..
If you don't move the router up or down you don't need to sand the door parts the norm..

==========
=========
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpbc48 View Post
Hi Bob,

I know my inexperience will probably show here, but I don't understand the magic number 4 system. (I can't find it in the links.)

Also, it looks like the Summerfeld's plans restrict you to a 2.5" stile and a .5" overlay for their template to work.

The Freud formulas allow for any amount of overlay, stile width, tenon length and panel expansion amounts (depends on type of wood), just plug in your door height, width and the tenon length and all dimensions are given to you.

Mike



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
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post #8 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-30-2011, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for all the responses.

I will be using a R & S set with panel cutter.

maybe I should do some test cuts to define the joint size.

I will digest all the information.

James
Sydney, Australia
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I don't profess to know everything, and I may learn something new.

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post #9 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-30-2011, 10:11 PM
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Hi Bob,

I'm feeling really thick headed right now because I still don't know where the "4" comes in. Can you show me in a formula or something where/how the 4 is used?

Sorry to be so dense, but if that is a simpler way to do it, I sure want to understand it.

Mike
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post #10 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-30-2011, 10:53 PM
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HI Mike

They say a picture is worth a 1000 words
http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...l-100_2086.jpg

=========

Quote:
Originally Posted by mpbc48 View Post
Hi Bob,

I'm feeling really thick headed right now because I still don't know where the "4" comes in. Can you show me in a formula or something where/how the 4 is used?

Sorry to be so dense, but if that is a simpler way to do it, I sure want to understand it.

Mike



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
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