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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-20-2011, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Default Building my own router table-question

Im going to "roll my own" so to speak, and plan on using some fairly heavy duty metal, backed with 1/4" (i think) hardboard for thickness. Naturally, this has pointed out the need for a new tool (a thickness caliper), which makes it all that much better!. you all think this will work ok? seeing the ready made ones out of plastic or metal for 80 bucks and up, i just cant justify the cost, so i will try to make it.

Next, for the fence, what is the consensus, putting in a rail system, and then building a fence to that? or should i make one that clamps on the outside of the table?

Once i have enough experience, i will start answering these pretty simple questions too, but i gotta get that experience first, so thanks in advance for helping me out.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-20-2011, 06:42 PM
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Im going to "roll my own" so to speak, and plan on using some fairly heavy duty metal, backed with 1/4" (i think) hardboard for thickness. Naturally, this has pointed out the need for a new tool (a thickness caliper), which makes it all that much better!. you all think this will work ok? seeing the ready made ones out of plastic or metal for 80 bucks and up, i just cant justify the cost, so i will try to make it.

Next, for the fence, what is the consensus, putting in a rail system, and then building a fence to that? or should i make one that clamps on the outside of the table?

Once i have enough experience, i will start answering these pretty simple questions too, but i gotta get that experience first, so thanks in advance for helping me out.

I made a fence for my router table and decided to make it clamp around the edges of the table. I wasn't sure which I would like better so I did this one first thinking I could always add a t bolt, or miter channel later. So far, I like it the way it is. I like the smooth table surface (i.e. no t-bolt channel) and I can really cinch down the fence clamps without worrying pulling the t-bolt channel it out of the table (probably not really an issue).

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-20-2011, 08:37 PM
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I'm wondering why a 1/4" top over the metal. Are you going to glue it down?

A good caliper can be had at Harbor Freight for cheap. They have been available for so many years, the science is pretty well set across the board.

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-20-2011, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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I'm wondering why a 1/4" top over the metal. Are you going to glue it down?

A good caliper can be had at Harbor Freight for cheap. They have been available for so many years, the science is pretty well set across the board.
my plan was to glue the board under the metal. that way i can get the depth right a bit easier
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-20-2011, 11:06 PM
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my plan was to glue the board under the metal. that way i can get the depth right a bit easier
Hi Robin,

How thick is the metal you intend to use and what metal is it.

There may some issues with Aluminum and steel.

A common solution is to glue 2 x 3/4" sheets of MDF or baltic birch ply together to form a top. Then cover top and bottom with a vapour barrier ie Formica or plastic laminate


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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Robin,

How thick is the metal you intend to use and what metal is it.

There may some issues with Aluminum and steel.

A common solution is to glue 2 x 3/4" sheets of MDF or baltic birch ply together to form a top. Then cover top and bottom with a vapour barrier ie Formica or plastic laminate


ps; are you in blue pages?
Yes,that is my plan for the top. what i am referring to is for the insert. i wsa going to do a metal top on the insert, with the underside a wood like masonite.

Yes, i am in blue pages, shoot me a private message and ill tell you how to find me
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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so i made the insert today, and it came out pretty well. i think it is 1/8" plate steel, very heavy and solid, and i cant twist it at all. when i put the bolts into my router base, the steel wasnt thick enough for the bolts to go all the way in, and so i did the hardwood piece to match. what type of glue should i use to keep these two together?
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 09:30 PM
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Epoxy or polyurethane should work but if you are bolting thru it do you really need to? I have a table with fence on T-tracks and a steel table with clamps on edges. Both work but I like the tracks a little better. Clamping is cheaper obviously, so try it first, you can modify later to tracks.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 10:33 PM
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WoodHaven makes a U shaped clamp which goes over the edges of the table to lock down any kind of a fence. You simply drill one mounting hole on either end.

Cheap. Effective. Flexible. Woodhaven - Woodworking Tools, Supply & Equipment
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 11:30 PM
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Hi Gary

I'm a big fan of WoodHaven BUT you can make your own out of a long eye bolt, just heat it up and bend it over in the shape of a " double L ", put in a bolt in the eye with a wing nut and some washers..










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WoodHaven makes a U shaped clamp which goes over the edges of the table to lock down any kind of a fence. You simply drill one mounting hole on either end.

Cheap. Effective. Flexible. Woodhaven - Woodworking Tools, Supply & Equipment



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