Miter Track and T-track on router table? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Default Miter Track and T-track on router table?

I'm finishing my router table extension for my table saw, and seek advice about the following:

My saw is a Grizzly G05444Z with a standard rail. Thus, the table is 27" wide and approximately 18" deep. See images below.

1) Any advantages to a separate fence as opposed to clamping an accessory fence to existing rip fence? Either will have to be removed for wide stock ripping.

2) Any real utility to a miter track running parallel to router table fence? If so, what distance should this be placed at?

3) Many router fences have attached T-tracks to mount stuff off of, is this that useful?

I note that Pat Warner suggests building a fixture when you feel the need of feather boards, etc. Not to put words in his mouth, but obviously there are various styles of working with a router table.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMcDonald View Post
I'm finishing my router table extension for my table saw, and seek advice about the following:

My saw is a Grizzly G05444Z with a standard rail. Thus, the table is 27" wide and approximately 18" deep. See images below.

1) Any advantages to a separate fence as opposed to clamping an accessory fence to existing rip fence? Either will have to be removed for wide stock ripping.

2) Any real utility to a miter track running parallel to router table fence? If so, what distance should this be placed at?

3) Many router fences have attached T-tracks to mount stuff off of, is this that useful?

I note that Pat Warner suggests building a fixture when you feel the need of feather boards, etc. Not to put words in his mouth, but obviously there are various styles of working with a router table.
It looks like your fence has a T-track built into it which would make it easy to attach a router fence to. You don't want to use just the saw fence as it would be necessary to trap your work between the bit and the fence which is very dangerous, unless you are just using it to make grooves.
Instead of a miter track, you can use a miter sled which would slide against your router fence. You'll need one or the other if you are doing rail and style cuts for cabinets. If you do go with the track, I would put it as close as practical to the bit.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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I understand, thanks. I was not going to use the rip fence directly, just to clamp on an auxilliary fence to its face with dust collection, etc. I think I'll proceed that way without any additions and try it for a while. Jigs/sleds/fixtures are definitely our friends in the workshop.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 07:23 PM
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Hi JAM

I would suggest getting the fence below,you don't want to use the table saw fence in anyway, save it for the table saw, the fence below will have all you need and plus some.
Just drill two holes in the top with some slots ( or tee slot track) so you can move the fence or just remove it when needed for the wide stock jobs.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Nice fence - I'm too cheap, so I'll just spend more making it myself (but learning)!!
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 08:05 PM
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Hi


" I'm too cheap " hahahahahahaha me too, I have made 5 or so hahahahaha

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Nice fence - I'm too cheap, so I'll just spend more making it myself (but learning)!!



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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMcDonald View Post
I'm finishing my router table extension for my table saw, and seek advice about the following:

My saw is a Grizzly G05444Z with a standard rail. Thus, the table is 27" wide and approximately 18" deep. See images below.

1) Any advantages to a separate fence as opposed to clamping an accessory fence to existing rip fence? Either will have to be removed for wide stock ripping.
I think that depends on how the auxiliary fence attachment is made, and whether it provides a separate means of clamping the far end. The typical TS t-square fence floats free at the back end. If there is any flex at all in the fence, that can be bad and/or dangerous for routing purposes. For routing purposes, it is also sometimes convenient to move only one end of the router fence to adjust depth of cut. That isn't possible using the TS fence as the base, unless the auxiliary fence provides that capability.

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2) Any real utility to a miter track running parallel to router table fence? If so, what distance should this be placed at?
As you've noted, different folks have different methods of working. Some like to use a miter track for coping sleds and such, others prefer to simply run sleds against the fence. A miter track, or a miter/t-track combo can be used for horizontal feather boards, as well. So, again, the track is a personal decision, I think.

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3) Many router fences have attached T-tracks to mount stuff off of, is this that useful?
I have t-slots in the MDF faces on my RT fence. I find them useful for feather boards, stop blocks, etc. Others may find them superfluous.

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I note that Pat Warner suggests building a fixture when you feel the need of feather boards, etc. Not to put words in his mouth, but obviously there are various styles of working with a router table.
Pat is one of several good sources of information (and, router accessories - I have several of his bases). But, I think he would agree that there is room for differing methods, too, as long as those methods are safe.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 11:13 AM
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I would make a seperate fence for the router side of the table. Insert T-Track, it is great for stops, feather boards and other repeatable processes. I avoid T-slots in the table surface. It may cause a weakness or catch the wood when feeding, or cause the table to warp. Use a sled. I have an auxiiary board with horizontal featherboards mounted for convenience.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, this is just the thoughtful and informed kind of information I was seeking. John
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 11:40 AM
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thats a nice table, well done,
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