Router table build, Your Experience & Opinions Please - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-24-2011, 04:36 AM Thread Starter
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Default Router table build, Your Experience & Opinions Please

This is my first (hopefully last custom built router table) that said I am undecided about several features that need to be determined in order to move forward.
I'm looking for opinions based on previous bulds that worked and that didn't work so well. I'm committed to making the so far completed cabinet and table work so starting over isn't in the cards.
So far the combination is a Table I picked up from woodcraft when they closed in NW Indiana last year. It's a Pinnacle FMT 28 1/2" W X 45 3/4" L X 1 1/8" T micro dot laminate (woodpeckers table and super fence) paired with a Unilift and an Elu 3339 3 hp plunge router.
The cabinet is 24"X39" 1" baltic birch actual (15/16") thru out all panels glued and dadoed accept the back panel attached with #12 wood screws. The top is attached with two hinges/ pivots fabricated from 1" baltic birch and 1 1/2" nylon plastic 5/16" bolts and thread locking nuts. A 3 1/2" overhang on sides and front along with a 1" rear overhang. Comparments designed for storage of extra routers Milwakee body grip DW 621 and 618 two base extra base for Elu for out of table use. 24" omnijig and keller templates 1601 & 2401 along with wrenches and bits.
Now the decisions switch location and type leaning toward a 20 amp single pole with a duplex oulet in a box surface mounted on a possible verticle mounting post back left corner? Table Tilt support struts or adjustable saw tooth arangement monted inside router cavity one or two supports this top is heavy?
Drawer fronts maple inset or overlay? Face frame 1" x 3/4" maple boxes to be poplar. Slides are to be full extension side mount accept bottom drawer to be bottom mount as the drawer will be wide deep and heavy load the back compartment will be a drop front with bottom mounted slides to handle the weight of the dovetail jigs. Router compartment door wood, or wood framed plexiglass? Considering adjustable air dampers in front pannel? Planned wirring thru the back 4 " of top right drawer compartment. And working on a linkage to control spindle lock from the front of the table carried over from this routers days in my table saw extension.
One other issue do i need to lock the table down with some type of latch or will gravity be suficient?
I know this was long but I want to get it right the first time and thought that many of you have done this already maybe more than once.
Thanks
Tim
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-24-2011, 04:47 AM
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Tim,
That looks rather good to me, you don't need any locking down or fixing for your table insert as the weight of your router is suficient to hold it down, do remember when in use, to close the plunge lock when routing or the cut may vary each time with the router adjusting itself with the vibration etc.



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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-24-2011, 06:40 AM
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Tim, I finished my first table/cabinet a few months ago, so I'm no expert, but this is what I found on mines so far. I have not locked the table down, but I did find I had to add one little flat head screw to my insert. My table is hinged too, like yours, and I found when I went to lock in a bit, in the collet, I would sometimes force my insert out of it's place. Since adding that one screw, on the side nearest the operator, or the side that is the highest when the table is up to change bits, I haven't had that problem again. But your insert might fit tighter then mines did. Mines did feel tight, until I mounted the router on it.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-24-2011, 03:02 PM
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Sounds like you've thought out all the reasonable options. There is no right or wrong... it's what works for you... and what you want to look at and admire when your done.

Looks good to me. Full steam ahead...!
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-26-2011, 11:50 AM
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Tim, your table is nicely done. Utility is the most important feature of a table. While a door enclosing the router reduces noise you should be wearing hearing protection anyways. Consider the fact that you will need to open and close the door for every set up; is this something you want to do? I say no to a door over the router cavity. Covering the other cavities to keep sawdust out does make sense. Be sure to leave enough space around the top for clamping accessories in place. Looks like you have given your design a lot of thought, nice job.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-02-2011, 03:00 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Mike
Hopefully I wont need to go in there for any setups as the lift will eliminate most and I'm designing a linkage to have spindle lock capability from the front of table so I'll have above table bit change as well. I had this set up in my table saw extension with a linkage to lock spindle from the tables edge al else was above the table. Dust collection and fence left alot to be desired sharring fence with saw was inconveinent.I'll ost pics when I get it all reworked.
Tim
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-06-2011, 02:13 AM
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Tim,
What Kind of wood did you use for the whole table?

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-13-2011, 02:39 AM Thread Starter
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Dale
I built the case out of 1 inch baltic birch with 3/8" deep dados & rabbits where the parts intesect. I still need to build the drawers and install an outboard switch as well as a door for the router compartment. I did get the spindle lock linkage designed for locking the spindle remotely from the front edge of the table for all above table adjustments.
Tim
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